Milbank meter enclosures

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goldstar

Senior Member
Location
New Jersey
Occupation
Electrical Contractor
I know there is someone who is a Milbank employee here in this forum and hopefully he can provide some input here. I recently upgraded an electric service and had a hard time installing those security screws that hold the threaded hub onto the top of the 200A overhead enclosure. The screws weren't the self-tapping type and the screw holes in the enclosure weren't tapped either. I spent about 20-30 minutes trying to get the screws installed but failed. I then installed (4) # 12 x 1" sheet metal screws with an impact driver but not before I ruined a pair of pliers cutting off about 1/4" of the pointed end. Anyone else run into this ?
 

Cow

Senior Member
Location
Eastern Oregon
Occupation
Electrician
I'm not sure what thread size Milbank uses, but we all keep a set of Greenlee drill taps on the truck for situations such as this.

Might be worth it to you if you don't have a set.
 

hbiss

EC, Westchester, New York NEC: 2014
Location
Hawthorne, New York NEC: 2014
Occupation
EC
Sounds like someone screwed up and the holes didn't get tapped at the factory. I wouldn't be without a tap set for up through 1/4-20. Even if holes are tapped, I like to run a tap through because paint and plating can make the screws tough to turn. Matter of fact I carry a Klein triple tap (6-32, 8-32 and 10-32) in my tool pouch and automatically chase out every 6-32 hole in steel boxes and raised rings before I install the receptacle or switch. Just saves a lot of grief because I find that probably 50% of the threads are tight.

-Hal
 

goldstar

Senior Member
Location
New Jersey
Occupation
Electrical Contractor
Sounds like someone screwed up and the holes didn't get tapped at the factory. I wouldn't be without a tap set for up through 1/4-20. Even if holes are tapped, I like to run a tap through because paint and plating can make the screws tough to turn. Matter of fact I carry a Klein triple tap (6-32, 8-32 and 10-32) in my tool pouch and automatically chase out every 6-32 hole in steel boxes and raised rings before I install the receptacle or switch. Just saves a lot of grief because I find that probably 50% of the threads are tight.

-Hal

Thanks Hal & Cow. I have the Klien triple tap in my tool kit but the holes were larger than 10/32. They may have been 10/24 but I couldn't find that tap in my tool bag. I tried using a # 10 sheet metal screw but that was too small thus my reason for using a # 12 screw. I don't know why the use the security screws to begin with. Thanks for the suggestions. I'll look into getting a better tap kit.
 

kwired

Electron manager
Location
NE Nebraska
Security screw? As in one with tamper resistant heads so they are not easily removed? Older ones maybe just a slot screw, but most new ones I have seen are hex head.

You have a POCO requirement to use tamper resistant? More understandable on a blank hub, but common choice for blank seems to be one with the fastener on the inside of the enclosure.

Most meter socket hubs use 12 gauge screws, I think with 24 TPI.
 

goldstar

Senior Member
Location
New Jersey
Occupation
Electrical Contractor
Security screw? As in one with tamper resistant heads so they are not easily removed? Older ones maybe just a slot screw, but most new ones I have seen are hex head.

You have a POCO requirement to use tamper resistant? More understandable on a blank hub, but common choice for blank seems to be one with the fastener on the inside of the enclosure.

Most meter socket hubs use 12 gauge screws, I think with 24 TPI.

That's probably the case. I have 3 different POCO's in my area and that all have different requirements for their meter enclosures. Two of them use a fifth jaw while the other doesn't require one. Of the two that require the fifth jaw, one uses a std. narrow style overhead enclosure while the other uses a larger underground sized enclosure. Go figure. I don't understand why a POCO would require tamper-resistant screws for the threaded hub. Once it's installed who's going to try and pull it out ?
 

infinity

Moderator
Staff member
Location
New Jersey
Occupation
Journeyman Electrician
I believe that these are one way screws that are threaded in with a slotted screwdriver but cannot be removed.
 

K8MHZ

Senior Member
Location
Michigan. It's a beautiful peninsula, I've looked
Occupation
Electrician
IIRC, the hubs and screws come in the same bag. The problem I remember was that even though the screws had hex heads, they were so close to the hub you couldn't get a socket on them, so a screwdriver was needed. I may have a bag left over in my parts bin. If I do, I will see what's up with it.
 

al hildenbrand

Senior Member
Location
Minnesota
Occupation
Electrical Contractor, Electrical Consultant, Electrical Engineer
I've installed a lot of Milbank meter sockets, but never seen security screws required for the attachment of the mast hub. Gotta love the weirdness that comes out of the local PoCo.
 

goldstar

Senior Member
Location
New Jersey
Occupation
Electrical Contractor
I believe that these are one way screws that are threaded in with a slotted screwdriver but cannot be removed.

I believe you are correct. But what is the reason for them? Who’s going to remove them once they’re in. Why the need for one-way screws?
 

goldstar

Senior Member
Location
New Jersey
Occupation
Electrical Contractor
Like those on men's room toilet partitions? :lol:

-Hal
EXACTLY. Is there really a need for these types of screws in this scenario ? Is someone going to bring a screw driver into the John with them and then while sitting there doing their business take apart the partitions ??? By the same reasoning, who's going to take the threaded hub off the top of the meter enclosure ?
 
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