Millwork Recept.

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cpinetree said:
Rarely, because if it's wrong you just bought some very expensive firewood.
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This.

The general "rule" is that we don't. In fact, I've refused to do it once, even when asked, because I wasn't 100% sure I'd get it right. Bring the carpenter back into the room.

That said, I've successfully done it many times, also.
 
ptonsparky said:
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Something like this? Job is still needing to be done. Up on Scenic Byway #2 or North of it.

View attachment 18946
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At same time someone is lucky the cut wasn't oversized.

Anymore I often prefer they measure to center of cutout make a smaller then needed hole there and let me finish it out if they aren't going to make a good fit. Oscillating tools make it easier to have more precision if done that way.

Outlet box in side of cabinet that is supported by "plaster ears"? If I don't cut the hole myself it has a good chance of being too big for the plaster ears to work.
 
kwired said:
At same time someone is lucky the cut wasn't oversized.

Anymore I often prefer they measure to center of cutout make a smaller then needed hole there and let me finish it out if they aren't going to make a good fit. Oscillating tools make it easier to have more precision if done that way.

Outlet box in side of cabinet that is supported by "plaster ears"? If I don't cut the hole myself it has a good chance of being too big for the plaster ears to work.
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Have you ever tried a RotoZip for this kind of work?
 
I think I just thought of a new product that's needed (may exist) but that I have not seen.

A box template with a level and center marks. Stick it up there, center and level and mark your box opening. I'm sure that carpenters and cabinet people could still screw it up but they would get a lot closer than they do now.
 
growler said:
I think I just thought of a new product that's needed (may exist) but that I have not seen.

A box template with a level and center marks. Stick it up there, center and level and mark your box opening. I'm sure that carpenters and cabinet people could still screw it up but they would get a lot closer than they do now.
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You mean like this?

madison-electric-products-tool-accessories-msbtrac1-64_1000.jpg

Also here:

51qjKJ7VX5L._SL1000_.jpg
 
gadfly56 said:
You mean like this?

View attachment 18949

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Looks pretty good. I like the idea of the rubber backing so it won't slip around while being traced.

Heck I may even buy one. In a tight spot that would make tracing easy. I wonder if a couple of hole where you could use sheet rock screws to hold while traceing would help Talking about in a tight spot where it's hard to hold and see at the same time.
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growler said:
gadfly56 said:
You mean like this?

View attachment 18949

QUOTE]


Looks pretty good. I like the idea of the rubber backing so it won't slip around while being traced.

Heck I may even buy one. In a tight spot that would make tracing easy. I wonder if a couple of hole where you could use sheet rock screws to hold while traceing would help Talking about in a tight spot where it's hard to hold and see at the same time.
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If you look at the second one that's exactly what it has. In fact, it's designed to be used as the jig for a router; the base is 1/4" thick.
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growler said:
I think I just thought of a new product that's needed (may exist) but that I have not seen.

A box template with a level and center marks. Stick it up there, center and level and mark your box opening. I'm sure that carpenters and cabinet people could still screw it up but they would get a lot closer than they do now.
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I have a box cut out template in one of my toolboxes. It is cut out of a scrap of 1/4 inch plywood.
 
Ok, thanks. Would you need an extension ring as I would imagine you would have the sheetrock and millwork giving you about an 1-1-1/2'
 
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