RichB
Senior Member
- Location
- Tacoma, Wa
- Occupation
- Electrician/Electrical Inspector
I prefer my Fluke 87--but I think the T5 is probably a better all around everyday meter---and less expensive
i've had the fluke 12 go off the scissor lift 30' to the floor, and not suffer for it,
but i've also been using fluke 12's since about 1992. i admit it. i like them.
fluke, before they came out with the "meter a week" upsell
strategy, actually set down to make a DMM that would replace the wiggy.
that was the fluke 12. shunt voltage reading, autoranging, will show
temporary opens or closes, and do min/max voltage. it'll even timestamp
the max min values, altho somewhat primitively.
it'll do everything a journeyman wireman needs done, except ampacity.
save something for him to buy his second year of apprenticeship. his
primary meter is also his primary safety tool. you want something
durable.
clamp ons are all fine, but will probably get the minion told to
"put that damn thing back in your car...."
and if the clamp on takes a header, they usually don't behave
well after that. best the clamp on is the second meter.
local 640 doesn't seem to have a tool list posted online.
i've not worked there since 1998, but they didn't have a
tool list then.
but when i showed up with a plasma cutter, exception was taken.
i was asked to please put that back in the car.
Or a Fluke Tpro-plus.
Will a T+ Pro pick up phantom or induced voltage. I am looking for a meter that will only read "true" voltages.
I would recommend Cat III vs HF bomb.
My go-to meter is a fluke T-5 1000 small enough to fit in your pocket accurate enough unless you are working on analog stuff that requires mA readings and has a CT on the endInteresting! I would have thought the 325 or 376 would be plenty durable enough for daily use on a jobsite. I have a 289 "lab accuracy piece" and even it seems at least as durable as my Klein and Ideal meters (I have an unreasonable collection of DMMs). I did notice that the 300 series doesn't have low-Z mode, so I'm sure it will show phantom voltages sometimes. I always figured that recognizing a real vs. phantom reading is just part of learning to use a DMM, since most still don't have low-Z.
I notice the first couple recommendations here are not for clamp-ons. Isn't that an important feature if you only have one meter?