nail on box tab

[jetlag]

On a multi gang nail on plastic box what is the purpose of the tab on the side. Is that to nail to a wood block . it is usually to far from the next stud to do that..i dont know why it would need so many holes and the holes are different sizes.. Also why is the edge of the tab rounded off.. I have heard the tab is not to nail to a block but to apply drywall mud on to in order to secure it to back of the drywall. But i dont see why that would hold much . i guess you could hold the box and run a screw thru the dry wall thru the tab but if it hits the big holes it wont hold anthing

 

[480sparky]

It's a nailing flange designed to support the 'far' end of the box.

If not used to secure the box, it will prevent to box from being pulled into the room when a receptacle is installed at that end and a cord is removed.

 

[mcclary's electrical]

On a multi gang nail on plastic box what is the purpose of the tab on the side. Is that to nail to a wood block . it is usually to far from the next stud to do that..i dont know why it would need so many holes and the holes are different sizes.. Also why is the edge of the tab rounded off.. I have heard the tab is not to nail to a block but to apply drywall mud on to in order to secure it to back of the drywall. But i dont see why that would hold much . i guess you could hold the box and run a screw thru the dry wall thru the tab but if it hits the big holes it wont hold anthing

Every once in a while I've had them hit a stud on both sides if they're close together. I've taken the time to put blocks in , if the home seems worth it. But plenty of times, I don't worry about it holding anything. The screw through the sheetrock is a good idea, as usually the side of the box farthest from the stud ends up further back in the wall until switches are installed and pulls it forward.

 

[Jim W in Tampa]

It's there for you to add a block of wood. That will keep it from moving. Good luck at finding a drywall guy that will cut a square opening.

 

[jetlag]

thanks mcclary

thanks mcclary

Every once in a while I've had them hit a stud on both sides if they're close together. I've taken the time to put blocks in , if the home seems worth it. But plenty of times, I don't worry about it holding anything. The screw through the sheetrock is a good idea, as usually the side of the box farthest from the stud ends up further back in the wall until switches are installed and pulls it forward.

I would only do the screw thing on my own house . You wouldnt want to ask the dry wall people to do it for you and if you do it yourself there is a thing about you mudding the screw hole that someone might not like

 

[jetlag]

thanks jim

thanks jim

It's there for you to add a block of wood. That will keep it from moving. Good luck at finding a drywall guy that will cut a square opening.

Do you know of any thing in the code or the manufactures specs that requires the block to be used. Whats bad is when they miss the box so bad they add extra mud to fill the gap and when you tighten the device the tabs break the mud back a lose and must use max size covers

 

[jetlag]

I think the wood block is needed on gang receptacles but i very seldom install even a double. I dont believe the wood block is needed on gang switches

 

[kwired]

It's there for you to add a block of wood. That will keep it from moving. Good luck at finding a drywall guy that will cut a square opening.

Unless it is a round box

Do you know of any thing in the code or the manufactures specs that requires the block to be used. Whats bad is when they miss the box so bad they add extra mud to fill the gap and when you tighten the device the tabs break the mud back a lose and must use max size covers

You could always attach a short 2x4 or whatever wall studs are and let it get sandwiched between both sides of wall (basically not secured to wall framing) - this will be secure enough to keep that end of the box from wanting to move when installing devices.

 

[M. D.]

I use the phantom stud method , works great

http://tools.passandseymour.com/pdf/instructionsheets/340702_RevC.pdf

5. Multi-gang boxes are provided with a mounting bracket on
each side of the box so that one side can be nailed to a
wood stud or crimped to a steel stud. A phantom stud
(wood or steal) can then be mounted to the remaining
bracket on the box.
This phantom stud is nothing more than a short stud,
which once installed is pressed between the walls,
providing additional support for the box, as shown in
Figure 2

 

[480sparky]

I use the phantom stud method , works great

http://tools.passandseymour.com/pdf/instructionsheets/340702_RevC.pdf

Link no workee.

 

[jetlag]

Thanks M D

Thanks M D

I use the phantom stud method , works great

http://tools.passandseymour.com/pdf/instructionsheets/340702_RevC.pdf

yea thats just what I wanted, to see in specs or code how to deal with the the mounting tab. I had figured the phantom stud might work but people i asked said no the block must be nailed to framing.

 

[LarryFine]

In the olden days, plastic multi-gang boxes came with everything from a wire brace that attached to the same stud as the nailed edge to an extension arm to reach the next stud.

I believe the modern box's tab, which don't usually have holes in them, is to keep the box from pulling out. The device straps will keep it from falling in.

 

[infinity]

I use the phantom stud method , works great



http://tools.passandseymour.com/pdf/instructionsheets/340702_RevC.pdf

5. Multi-gang boxes are provided with a mounting bracket on
each side of the box so that one side can be nailed to a
wood stud or crimped to a steel stud. A phantom stud
(wood or steal) can then be mounted to the remaining
bracket on the box.
This phantom stud is nothing more than a short stud,
which once installed is pressed between the walls,
providing additional support for the box, as shown in
Figure 2

You would think that Pass and Seymour should know how to spell the word steel. :roll:

 

[480sparky]

............... The device straps will keep it from falling in.

You must have some durn fine sheetrockers in your area, Larry. The ones I follow like to cut a hole the size of the Barringer Crater around each box.