Nail Protection Plates

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acin said:
Garage door tracks are installed with 1/4 inch x3 lags with an impactor . Ill bet they could go right through the 1/16 plate
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Have you seen this done? In my time installing garage doors I have not put a lag through any kind of steel, ok maybe sheet metal but nothing over that


“ shoot low boys their riding shetland ponies”
 
infinity said:
I've used these as depicted in the photo but my question is why isn't the protection required to extend 1.25" past the edge of the stud? If that cable is run vertically 1/2" from the face of the stud protection is required not different than what shown with the hole.
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I think the confusion is between the article you posted and 300.4(D). The first is for bored holes through framing members which states if the edge of the "HOLE" is closer than 1.25" than nail plates are required on the stud at the hole location. The other article is for running cable parallel to framing members. The article does not say "cable stapled/secured to the side of the stud", it just says run parallel to framing members such as studs, joists, ... and furring strips. It says to keep the cable 1.25" away from the nearest edge of the framing member. This, IMO, means when running between studs, furring strips, etc. In that case, I don't see how you would protect the cable without a nail plate that ran from stud to stud or furring strip to strip.
It really doesn't specifically say anything about cables running parallel but stapled/secured to the sides of studs.

But I will have to agree on the thought. If you have to protect cable between furring strips because they were closer than 1.25" and because someone with bad aim might hit the cable all the way over 1.25" away, why wouldn't you need to protect cable past the stud where a too close hole was bored and the same bad aim might miss the stud.
 
infinity said:
If I run the cable on the side of the stud a space of 1.25" must be maintained or protection is required. Would the same 1.25" apply to the conductor behind the nail plate?
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I've often wondered something similar.

If you run a cable along the length of the stud, right at the edge, and a drywaller misses the stud by 1/8" he's going to put a screw right in your cable.

If you drill a hole right at the edge of the lumber and run a cable through it horizontally oh, and you put a nail plate on it that only covers the wood, in the drywaller misses the stud by 1/8" right at your cable, he's going to put a screw through it

I've always thought a nail plate should be at least 2-1/2" wide

But honestly, I think it's inexcusable to drill a hole that close to the edge of the wood
 
infinity said:
Even with the hole set back 1.25" I cringe every time I have to hang a TV bracket with the provided 3" lag screws. I haven't it a cable yet but I think that I'm due. :rolleyes:
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One thing in your favor is that not many wires are run across studs at the height most TV are mounted. All of mine are above switch height and way above normal receptacle height.
 
retirede said:
One thing in your favor is that not many wires are run across studs at the height most TV are mounted. All of mine are above switch height and way above normal receptacle height.
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Most of my horizontal wires are are between 30”-36” off the floor. Most people don’t hang stuff that low.


“ shoot low boys their riding shetland ponies”
 
infinity said:
Even with the hole set back 1.25" I cringe every time I have to hang a TV bracket with the provided 3" lag screws. I haven't it a cable yet but I think that I'm due. :rolleyes:
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I learned the hard way, and often by observing from other's installs, don't run cables horizontally in the wall area where cabinets would typically be fastened, or even where there is likely to be some other item fastened to the wall. In a kitchen keep such horizontal runs when necessary below the top 6 inches of a base cabinet or closer to vertical center of a typical wall cabinet. Backsplash area is ok, but that is where you will often have some device boxes and need to at least avoid whatever height you are placing those.
 
The last rental I lived in was a detached ADU over the top of two garages, one was mine, the other was the adjacent landlords. On the side of her garage was a dual meter main panel, one meter feeding her house, the other running to a subpanel in my garage. One Sunday while I was out I got a text from my son that the power was out, I'm thinking I forgot to pay the bill or something so I call the POCO and they say no, I'm good. So when I get home I go upstairs and he's playing a game on his xbox so I'm thinking dude, really? Then he points out to me that none of the lights work and such. I go back downstairs and I realize my landlord had someone installing L-brackets for shelving in her garage and I'm thinking if she drove one of those 3" screws into the feeder that goes to my subpanel that could have blown one leg out. I estimated where I thought the feeder was, used my non-contact tester to determine the screw wasn't hot, then suggested that she call an electrician. The Electrician cut a small hole near where that screw was, sure enough there was a dinner plate sized flash mark inside the wall, the 3 inch screw connected one leg to the EGC and blew itself out. Somehow it didn't trip any breakers, didn't affect the other leg, and didn't start a fire. All because she carelessly hired someone to put up a few shelves. Incidentally through this I discovered that she had her garage running off of my meter and she obviously knew about it but tried to play dumb. I broke the lease and moved out that month.
 
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