Need to raise a service drop...

Status
Not open for further replies.
responder1 said:
if im gathering all your info correctly, just take the old service and disconnect it. pull out the meter and install a new meter base panel combo and put up a new riser. you make more money that way. cut off the old riser at the roof and cap off the top.
Click to expand...

Its not about the money. It's about doing something quality.
 
ultramegabob said:
would it be possible to get on top of the roof and unthread the pipe and pull it out from above, then cut and thread an extension, screw it onto the bottom and drop it back in, and thread it back in from above? Im sure the roof boot would have to be removed and replaced as well...
Click to expand...

That's what I'd do...:cool: But rather than make an extension, I'd just get a new piece of pipe full length, no couplings. If you have trouble getting it out of the wall, cut the sheetrock out. I'm betting you could unscrew the mast out of the wall though.

Seems like some of the posters are trying to turn this into a 1000 dollar job, when all he needs is a taller riser and maybe a guy kit.:confused:
 
nolabama said:
it should be rigid if it goes thru the roof ? right? put a coupling (threadless if you gotta) and make the riser taller - it will look better
Click to expand...
Agree! Cut off the riser and thread it. Borrow a die from a plumber (it is the same thread, isn't it?).
 
TOOL_5150 said:
. . . the POCO installed that - not an EC. I know, that probably doesn't matter. . .
Click to expand...
Yes, it does matter. :mad: In my opinion, the serving electric utility should not be doing work on the service riser in that manner. When they have a problem like that, they should hire an electrical contractor to do the work on the building or set a pole close enough to get the NESC required clearance. We have paid an EC to bury our cable and replace the meter fitting to convert to underground where no valid options are available. :smile:
 
If you change out the riser you can pull the conductors and (hopefully) unthread and pull it up through the straps. Be careful on your back though. I know someone that was out for a week after doing one of these. Maybe you could drill through it upl there and slide a piece of rerod or something through it to use as a handle to lift it up and out.
 
Last edited:
Without more pictures showing the meter base, main panel, ect. It's hard to determine what I would do. Maybe would be easier and less cost to cut the sheetrock to remove straps and install a new mast pipe with a coupling in the wall.

From what I was taught: A riser does not penetrate the roof. A mast does.
 
aftershock said:
. . . From what I was taught: A riser does not penetrate the roof. A mast does.
Click to expand...
You are parsing words. The proper terminology is a through the roof raceway. Generally, a riser is considered to be the same as a service mast. It just depends on the area of the country in which you are plying your trade. :smile:
 
TOOL_5150 said:
I would like to replicate this:

mast.jpg



Need to raise the drop 2 - 3 feet because of clearance issues.

Any ideas / suggestions ?

~Matt
Click to expand...


I like that. It looks solid to me. I would pass it.
 
I'll bet a beer, of your choice, that after pulling the wires you could sneak a new pipe section down there, with the straps in place. Of course you'd replace the boot then too.
I'm not saying it's just going to slide out easy. Two guys w/ two 36/48" pipe wrenches would be handy. W/ the pipe wrench you can pull/push while twisting. I think the only trick would be not bugaring the threads at the supports when re-installing. If you have to patch dry wall, how much will that add the cost? Give the customer the option of eating that cost themselves?

OT thought 1: When did the POCO do that mod.? Square head nuts? 194x?
OT thought 2: My gut tells me plumbing threads are a no go PER NEC, but 344.28 (where I thought I'd see that) says nothing to that point. ??


My last 2?,
Doug S.
 
iwire said:
Check out 230.54(C), the weather-head is supposed to be above the point of attachment.

In my opinion if you (an electrician) install a new point of attachment it has to comply with the NEC.
Click to expand...



I dont know why I didnt remember that. Its a no-go... I am not going to do as in the picture, nor am I even going to think about it anymore... Im installing a new mast.

For the other guys:

I cant sell a service upgrade.. its a new addition. 2" mast, 200A meter combo... mast is in the wall. My only option is just replacing the mast.

Thanks for setting me straight Bob. :grin:

~Matt
 
How about a helper pole? You didn't (or I didn't catch) say what the clearance issue is. e.g. long span, really deep sag . . .
 
Chamuit said:
How about a helper pole? You didn't (or I didn't catch) say what the clearance issue is. e.g. long span, really deep sag . . .
Click to expand...


The main problem is the customer.... he doesnt want anything "ugly" The whole reason for this is he wants a shed built right under the drop - as it is right now the drop would be setting on the shed. My POCO requires 2' of clearance in a resi situation.

~Matt
 
charlie said:
We still use square washers and square nuts. :)
Click to expand...
That's what's on the eyebolts the POCO gives us. Sometimes, we even get springs; they're square (in cross-section), too.
 
TOOL_5150 said:
My only option is just replacing the mast.
Click to expand...
Random thoughts (as if I had any other kind:grin:):

That's absolutely the first thing I'd try. The biggest concern would be the locknut outside the box, but a 1/2" slot along the top of the panel should let you slide large channelox (;)) in to grip it. You should be able to spin the pipe from the roof more easily than spinning the pliers, once you break the sealant round the boot.

If it's tight, use the above-mentioned two-pipe-wrenches idea, one gripping in each direction, for a back-and-forth twisting to break friction, while both people lift. You're really gonna have to thread the new mast in carefully. If you deform the strap (if there is one, you might have trouble.

Once you get the old pipe out, you can peer down the hole from the attic with a flashlight before you decide what to do. If you're lucky, and there's nothing between the top plates and the box, you can add a threaded piece of pipe, the length you want to add, with a coupling, "up-periscoping" the existing mast and head.

Put the existing locknuts and bushing back on in the reverse of how you removed them. (You did leave the outside locknut in the wall, didn't you? :cool:)
 
LarryFine said:
Random thoughts (as if I had any other kind:grin:):

That's absolutely the first thing I'd try. The biggest concern would be the locknut outside the box, but a 1/2" slot along the top of the panel should let you slide large channelox (;)) in to grip it. You should be able to spin the pipe from the roof more easily than spinning the pliers, once you break the sealant round the boot.

If it's tight, use the above-mentioned two-pipe-wrenches idea, one gripping in each direction, for a back-and-forth twisting to break friction, while both people lift. You're really gonna have to thread the new mast in carefully. If you deform the strap (if there is one, you might have trouble.

Once you get the old pipe out, you can peer down the hole from the attic with a flashlight before you decide what to do. If you're lucky, and there's nothing between the top plates and the box, you can add a threaded piece of pipe, the length you want to add, with a coupling, "up-periscoping" the existing mast and head.

Put the existing locknuts and bushing back on in the reverse of how you removed them. (You did leave the outside locknut in the wall, didn't you? :cool:)
Click to expand...



I figured a new piece of 2" into the cost as well as new wire. I was just going to pull the old one out, and slip the new one in. Way easier said than done I am betting. :rolleyes:

~Matt
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top