Snap-On says to follow the fasteners instructions in regard to using a lubricant.Snapon torque wrench manual, been there for decades. From when they invented the tool.
I think George is a legitimate engineer?
I bet that is a crew of well informed well studied group of experts, part time racers?
The recipe for perfect toastThe simplest rule of thumb is to stop tightening 1/2 turn before the stud snaps off.
Popcorn, too.The recipe for perfect toast
Is easy to express:
Toast it till it burns and then,
20 seconds less.
----Piet Hein (approximately)
The anti-ox goes on the aluminum conductor not the fastener threads.We keep coming 'round to "follow the instructions" (with a few citations to that) vs. "lube the threads". Why is it so hard for some to accept that there are places that expect dry threads?
More relevant- what do Ilsco, Burndy, Sq-D, Siemans, etc say about their lugs & breakers? AFAIK they all say either dry threads or with anti-ox (I don't have time to run this down right now).
Do I see steering clutches?Not a single bolt in this entire machine do they list dry. View attachment 2566385
30 year expert licenced racer, full time electrician. Races are only on the weekend.... So i guess part time? I do safety work to pay for practice on saturday then i pay to race on sunday- for a $10 plastic trophy. Kinda silly but better than sitting on the couch throwing stones at people. I just would hate to think that you would try to dismiss those accomplishments because im not a paid factory rider... Im sorta proud of my wall of trophies and yes, the people i work with at the track are very very well informed.Snapon torque wrench manual, been there for decades. From when they invented the tool.
I think George is a legitimate engineer?
I bet that is a crew of well informed well studied group of experts, part time racers?
I recognize that I'm over-simplifying things (I think). I worked (1970s) in an industry where we tightened a little more than hand-tight, then used either heat (hollow studs) or stretching devices with micrometer heads (solid studs). IMO, that's the only 100% method.Proper torque with a proper understanding of mechanical physics will be different from what you accept. Educate yourself. It will make you a better man.
No more so than he; my mechanical is all field experience; my degree is BSEE with a nuclear course or 2.I think George is a legitimate engineer?
Yes. It is. I also understand that lubing threads is your baby- and thats fine. Anybody use a torque multiplier here? We also call them 4 in ones. So among other duty's i also am in charge of rebuilding hydraulic breakers, the ones you hear at 6am on saturday... Anyway the head bolts are about 1000lbft on the head bolts so since the 6' tall torque wrenches only go to 600 you use the multiplier and set the wrench to 250 or so and at the output it creats 1000ftlb of torque... But- you still need the 6'wrench and put the breaker under a dozer bucket to keep it from moving. Useless info but its a awesome amount of power!It is still 50 but it isnt providing the same clamping force.