Offsetting 2" PVC

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iwire said:
2" Pipe with 3 bend saddle made of fittings = Ugly to electricians and civilians.

2" Pipe with heat formed 3 bend saddle = Work of art to electricians, still a big ugly pipe to civilians. :grin:
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Electricians aren't civilized????:grin::grin:
 
OK, I surrender!!!!

OK, I surrender!!!!

Enough already...............First thing tomorrow, I am setting up a jig and am going to bend it and see what it looks like. I know none of you can see the application, but I do not have alot of "length" to work with. I need a very short offset in total length to clear stuff. I agree that factory fittings with lots of couplings looks like a DIY'er did it and I do try and make all my work as professional as I can AND I am an electrician..................so, I will give it my best shot. If it turns out OK, I will try and post a pic!!

Thanks to all.

RKrieger:smile:
 
iwire said:
2" Pipe with 3 bend saddle made of fittings = Ugly to electricians and civilians.

2" Pipe with heat formed 3 bend saddle = Work of art to electricians, still a big ugly pipe to civilians. :grin:
Click to expand...

rk,

could you bring this run down and go underground, just an idea.
 
Although article 352.24 says "bends shall be made only with bending equipment identified for the purpose". I have used conduit benders to bend PVC. As long as you are carefull you can bend "kicks" and "offsets" using foot benders and the old reliable "Triple Nickel" (Greenlee 555 sidewinder bender). If you use the Greenlee you need to use the Rigid Shoe and layout your offset like you would if you were using steel pipe. You may need to overbend to acheive the degree value you are looking for because of spring back. I usually let the pipe stay on the bender for a few minutes before I release the pressure. You can make your PVC pipe work look just like steel conduit using this technique.
 
Yeah, but.................

Yeah, but.................

benaround said:
rk,

could you bring this run down and go underground, just an idea.
Click to expand...

I could, but would have to cross poco's 320A underground feed which is only direct burial with a 3 1/2" sleeve into a 4 x 4 duct. If I can avoid messing around with their stuff and risk nicking it, I would rather go with my other first plan.
The "stuff" I have to work around is three meters (house, A/C and hot water with all of the interruptable boxes, then a 150A Nema 3 disconnect, telephone, etc, etc. The service is wall mounted near a corner of a garage and there is no room other than to cross over poco's riser in order to mount the ATS. A picture would help a bunch here, I know.

Thanks for your thoughts.
 
Red Wiggler said:
Although article 352.24 says "bends shall be made only with bending equipment identified for the purpose". I have used conduit benders to bend PVC. As long as you are carefull you can bend "kicks" and "offsets" using foot benders and the old reliable "Triple Nickel" (Greenlee 555 sidewinder bender). If you use the Greenlee you need to use the Rigid Shoe and layout your offset like you would if you were using steel pipe. You may need to overbend to acheive the degree value you are looking for because of spring back. I usually let the pipe stay on the bender for a few minutes before I release the pressure. You can make your PVC pipe work look just like steel conduit using this technique.
Click to expand...

Do you heat the PVC when using the Triple Nickle??? Never tried bending PVC cold.........Interesting....

Thanks,
 
rkrieger said:
The "stuff" I have to work around is three meters (house, A/C and hot water with all of the interruptable boxes, then a 150A Nema 3 disconnect, telephone, etc, etc. The service is wall mounted near a corner of a garage and there is no room other than to cross over poco's riser in order to mount the ATS.
Click to expand...
Can you just keep the entire run spaced away from the wall enough to clear everything?

In other words, either rig stand-offs for strut, or hang the horizontal portion from above?
 
Been thinking about that............

Been thinking about that............

LarryFine said:
Can you just keep the entire run spaced away from the wall enough to clear everything?

In other words, either rig stand-offs for strut, or hang the horizontal portion from above?
Click to expand...

Larry:

Thought about that, but am trying to plan for a "neat" installation that doesn't stand off that far. I am making a "bending" die to custom fit the offset so I can heat/bend the PVC neatly. I think it will work OK. If not, I will resort to factory shortened bends.

The job is for a very close friend and he is fussy and a perfectionist. I am not in a hurry with this one, so I can spend the necessary amount of planning/engineering time without concern.

Thanks as always for your comments.:smile::)

RLK
 
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