Old-Work Metalic Octaganal

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sfav8r

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Any suggestions for an old-work lighting outlet that will be fed with M/C?

It seems the only box not made today is an octagonal old-work metalic box. We would normally use a fan spanner box, but this is a lowered ceiling with no good support to expand it to. I was thinking of just using plastic old-work and drilling a 1/2 K/O but I suspect that may not fly code wise, plus the boxes don't really have a clear spot for the hole.

Am I overlooking something really obvious?
 
Are you using the box to support the luminaire?

If not then use a single gang or double gang metal cut in box.

Chris
 
If you are using the box to support a luminaire then the box would have to meet the requirements of 314.27(A).

The round plastic old work boxes are not listed to be used to support a luminaire.

Chris
 
this may sound kinda hack, but how about cutting a hole with a hole saw then inserting a piece of wood that is longer than the hole that you could glue down with liquid nails and then screw a pancake box to it.

edit- I didnt catch the part about hanging a light off of it at first, i wouldnt trust drywall, but if its in plywood I would think it would be okay.
 
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raider1 said:
The round plastic old work boxes are not listed to be used to support a luminaire.

Chris
Click to expand...


Actually some are, this one is rated for 15#'s:

PC223OW.jpg


http://www.alliedmoulded.com/index....7023/template/products_sub_res/categoryid/165
 
Well here's an idea!

I was looking for a spiral ceiling box span support, I worked one of these into a simple circle cut in ceiling between spans in my house(fan rated). The neat thing about it was that once back together you could tighen it into the structure with an adjustable wrench, and screw in each end with flex tips... I can't find that one, to reference!

The product comes a combination FR Box and Bracket as sold in the Organge store.

Here's some Arlington products that might suit you needs, note pages M-2.
 
sfav8r said:
Any suggestions for an old-work lighting outlet that will be fed with M/C?

It seems the only box not made today is an octagonal old-work metalic box. We would normally use a fan spanner box, but this is a lowered ceiling with no good support to expand it to. I was thinking of just using plastic old-work and drilling a 1/2 K/O but I suspect that may not fly code wise, plus the boxes don't really have a clear spot for the hole.

Am I overlooking something really obvious?
Click to expand...

Could you take the brackets off an old work box and screw them on to a octagonal ?
 
or this one ,..though i used the reiker one once it was real solid and I don't recall any issues with installation
FBRS420SC_full.jpg
 
When speaking of nonmetallic boxes and drilling holes you should always look at 314.3 and the exceptions to assure compliance. 2008 NEC
 
M. D. said:
Me too,.. I'm not sure the test that ul does is in sheetrock ,. though the model number is not the same , I'd be surprised the test would differ .

http://www.alliedmoulded.com/9305-SK Instructions.pdf
Click to expand...

It does say in the installation instructions that "the strength of the substrate must be equal to 3/8" inch thick plywood".

I really doubt that 1/2" sheetrock has the equivalent strength of 3/8" plywood.

Chris
 
raider1 said:
It does say in the installation instructions that "the strength of the substrate must be equal to 3/8" inch thick plywood".

I really doubt that 1/2" sheetrock has the equivalent strength of 3/8" plywood.

Chris
Click to expand...


Here is the instructions for the one in the image above
http://www.alliedmoulded.com/UserFi... and flange mounting instructions 1-30-07.pdf

A couple of scabs (?) and you're all set . Does this mean that the scabs can be inserted through the cut out and not be secured to the framing?
 
M. D. said:
Here is the instructions for the one in the image above
http://www.alliedmoulded.com/UserFi... and flange mounting instructions 1-30-07.pdf

A couple of scabs (?) and you're all set . Does this mean that the scabs can be inserted through the cut out and not be secured to the framing?
Click to expand...

I wouldn't think that just putting scabs through the hole and not attaching them to the framing would equal the same strength as 3/8" plywood.

How do you determine if the scabs are equal in strength to plywood?

Chris
 
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