I’m assuming old dryers have always needed a neutral? Isn’t the motor 120v even if there aren’t any fancy controls.
Had a customer that had an older dryer that went bad. The landlord chose to replace the old dryer with new.
The new dryer wouldn’t work when plugged in so they had an appliance repair person come check the new dryer. He said there’s an issue with the circuit/receptacle.
I went a checked it out and it appears that there is no neutral/ground (older 3-wire). The landlord is wondering what changed with the circuit and how/why did it coincide with getting the new dryer?
I had wondered if the old dryer (they said it was really old!) didn’t need the neutral? Maybe the circuit was like this for awhile? But now I’m thinking that the neutral was gradually lost and that’s why the old dryer stopped working.
The circuit is run in 1/2” EMT for a long run. It only has 2 hots, using the conduit for the ground/neutral. I’m thinking maybe a coupling or something gradually loosened up?
Im planning on pulling a 3rd conductor through the conduit for a ground/neutral.
Had a customer that had an older dryer that went bad. The landlord chose to replace the old dryer with new.
The new dryer wouldn’t work when plugged in so they had an appliance repair person come check the new dryer. He said there’s an issue with the circuit/receptacle.
I went a checked it out and it appears that there is no neutral/ground (older 3-wire). The landlord is wondering what changed with the circuit and how/why did it coincide with getting the new dryer?
I had wondered if the old dryer (they said it was really old!) didn’t need the neutral? Maybe the circuit was like this for awhile? But now I’m thinking that the neutral was gradually lost and that’s why the old dryer stopped working.
The circuit is run in 1/2” EMT for a long run. It only has 2 hots, using the conduit for the ground/neutral. I’m thinking maybe a coupling or something gradually loosened up?
Im planning on pulling a 3rd conductor through the conduit for a ground/neutral.