Older dryers not needing a neutral?

sw_ross

Senior Member
Location
NoDak
I’m assuming old dryers have always needed a neutral? Isn’t the motor 120v even if there aren’t any fancy controls.

Had a customer that had an older dryer that went bad. The landlord chose to replace the old dryer with new.
The new dryer wouldn’t work when plugged in so they had an appliance repair person come check the new dryer. He said there’s an issue with the circuit/receptacle.
I went a checked it out and it appears that there is no neutral/ground (older 3-wire). The landlord is wondering what changed with the circuit and how/why did it coincide with getting the new dryer?

I had wondered if the old dryer (they said it was really old!) didn’t need the neutral? Maybe the circuit was like this for awhile? But now I’m thinking that the neutral was gradually lost and that’s why the old dryer stopped working.
The circuit is run in 1/2” EMT for a long run. It only has 2 hots, using the conduit for the ground/neutral. I’m thinking maybe a coupling or something gradually loosened up?
Im planning on pulling a 3rd conductor through the conduit for a ground/neutral.
 

qcroanoke

Sometimes I don't know if I'm the boxer or the bag
Location
Roanoke, VA.
Occupation
Sorta retired........
I’m assuming old dryers have always needed a neutral? Isn’t the motor 120v even if there aren’t any fancy controls.

Had a customer that had an older dryer that went bad. The landlord chose to replace the old dryer with new.
The new dryer wouldn’t work when plugged in so they had an appliance repair person come check the new dryer. He said there’s an issue with the circuit/receptacle.
I went a checked it out and it appears that there is no neutral/ground (older 3-wire). The landlord is wondering what changed with the circuit and how/why did it coincide with getting the new dryer?

I had wondered if the old dryer (they said it was really old!) didn’t need the neutral? Maybe the circuit was like this for awhile? But now I’m thinking that the neutral was gradually lost and that’s why the old dryer stopped working.
The circuit is run in 1/2” EMT for a long run. It only has 2 hots, using the conduit for the ground/neutral. I’m thinking maybe a coupling or something gradually loosened up?
Im planning on pulling a 3rd conductor through the conduit for a ground/neutral.
By code you need to pull a neutral and use the emt as the ground if it's continuous. Change it to a 4 wire receptacle, 4 wire cord and remove the jumper bettween the frame ground and neutral. All code requirements.
The old dryer probably worked because it was all mechanical and was getting enough of a neutral reference through the emt to work.
 

LarryFine

Master Electrician Electric Contractor Richmond VA
Location
Henrico County, VA
Occupation
Electrical Contractor
The circuit is run in 1/2” EMT for a long run. It only has 2 hots, using the conduit for the ground/neutral.
That was never okay! The old three-wire major-appliance circuit allowed the neutral to do double-duty as the equipment grounding, and not the other way around. Thus, a conduit alone was never allowed to be used as a neutral conductor.

With a break in the conduit, the dryer's cabinet and the conduit on the load side of the break are both energized. You need to add an insulated neutral, and either keep the three-wire circuit or re-wire it for four, and repair the conduit break.
 

Dennis Alwon

Moderator
Staff member
Location
Chapel Hill, NC
Occupation
Retired Electrical Contractor
Will 4 10's fit in 1/2? If It's legal I wouldn't want to pull it. ;)
Yes it will--I wonder whether the conduit is complete. OP, did you test continuity on the ground. Did you test your voltages anywhere? If the raceway is solid then I would run 3 #10 and use the raceway as an equipment grounding conductor.

Before doing all that make sure the breaker is putting out 240V across the hots and check the conduit for continuity as I stated earlier
 
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