Outdoor switched GFI

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bnbowen@uiuc.edu

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We recently moved into a 30 year old house. There was an inground, incandescent, switched light fixture aimed up on a tree. The fixture was in poor condition. I replaced the fixture with a GFI receptacle in a plastic box with an inuse cover. Then purchased a LED stake light, plugged the cap into the GFI receptacle and aimed it up at the tree. Looks nice. Less maintenance, power... BUT, every now and then the GFI trips. I keep notes on it (really) and there does not seem to be a pattern with frequency, the weather or the rain. The receptacle is about 50 feet from the panel and is fed from a receptacle in the bedroom. The circuit was installed when the house was built as the UF runs under the concrete patio. Any thoughts? Thanks! Brad
 
My guess would be moisture at the point where the LED stake light plugs into the GFCI receptacle causing a trip. Is it possible the in-use cover isnt sealed well to the plastic box, either thru being loose, bad gasket, or a warped box? Is the light cord in good shape, with good sealing to both the light and the plug, no nicks, mashed sections, sharp kinks, etc.?

You're not tripping anything upstream (line side) of that outdoor receptacle are you?
 
If you can verify that there is no moisture getting into the GFCI box I would keep changing the receptacle until I found one that will hold. Had a similar situation like this recently where a customer had a bug zapper plugged in. The GFCI would trip for no apparent reason. He even went out and bought a new bug zapper and still the same problem. I ended up changing the receptacle for the 3rd time and so far it has held for a month.
 
goldstar said:
That's always a + but it didn't matter in my case:happyno:
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I'm only speaking to most of the country that is under the 2008, or later, editions of the NEC. To me, using a Weather Resistant receptacle in Wet Locations is an "average" C.

I wonder what version of the NEC Brad's house is under, and whether he has any local ordinance (like Goldstar) that modifies the enforceable language of the NEC?
 
switched outdoor GFI

switched outdoor GFI

al hildenbrand said:
I'm only speaking to most of the country that is under the 2008, or later, editions of the NEC. To me, using a Weather Resistant receptacle in Wet Locations is an "average" C.

I wonder what version of the NEC Brad's house is under, and whether he has any local ordinance (like Goldstar) that modifies the enforceable language of the NEC?
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"The guy at Lowes indicated I needed the "WR" type and he looked and handed me one. Is there a marking on the GFI indicating it is "WR". While the house is 30 years old I'm betting it met code 30 years ago. There are GFIs by all the sinks and the other outdoor receptacles that are in the walls of the house. I am not aware of a "goldstar ordinance". Worst case is I can change it out or purchase a GFI circuit breaker and use a normal receptacle. I'm just curious as to why it trips. Oddly enough it tripped tonight five minutes ago. No rain, a little humid maybe. Thanks for your help ladies and gentlemen."
 
Plug in a regular fixture (non LED) and see if that will change anything.

I really don't think the receptacle being non WR will make any difference.
 
The face of the GFCI receptacle, after the cover is in place, should have a visible "WR" on it if it is Weather Resistant.

The remaining suspect is the luminaire. Is it labeled for "wet locations"?

The GFCI is allowed up to about 5.0 milliamps of leakage before it has to trip. Right now, only the luminaire, its cord and the GFCI are where the leak is. Moving the GFCI further away (like to a breaker) increases leakage -- not a good idea that if you don't have to.
Tapatalk
 
Only thing different about a WR receptacle is it is more corrosion resistant, still trips on same leakage conditions.

Inductive kickback from something else could be the cause for tripping. RF interference could be an issue as well.
 
kwired said:
Only thing different about a WR receptacle is it is more corrosion resistant, still trips on same leakage conditions.

Inductive kickback from something else could be the cause for tripping. RF interference could be an issue as well.
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Both good observations. My reasoning for suggesting a change-out is because these devices are mass produced and I'd be willing to bet that each one is not individually tested. If they randomly picked 1 or2 out of 100 that would probably satisfy their sampling based on the # of rejects. You may have gotten the 1 or 2 that didn't make the 5 mil trip limit.
 
kwired said:
Only thing different about a WR receptacle is it is more corrosion resistant, still trips on same leakage conditions.

Inductive kickback from something else could be the cause for tripping. RF interference could be an issue as well.
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"I checked the GFI and it has the big letters "WR" on it. The stake fixture is a socket with a big rubber like O ring and when you screw in the lamp it seals out the weather. It tripped last night so I waited a few minutes and then went out and reset it and it worked fine the rest of the night. The lamp is about a foot away from the GFI. I think maybe it is haunted. Thanks for your help. Really appreciate it. Have a good weekend. Brad"
 
bnbowen@uiuc.edu said:
The stake fixture is a socket with a big rubber like O ring and when you screw in the lamp it seals out the weather.
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Here's one more thought. If this socket contains a standard medium-Edison-screw lampholder ( E26 ), you know, the socket that receives a standard (obsolete) grocery store incandescent 60 Watt bulb, then the LED light that is in it needs to be carefully considered. The labeling on the LED lamp must indicate that it is rated to be exposed directly to weather while mounted base-down. Even then, the portion of the lamp containing the electronics that are the power supply and driver for the LEDs in the lamp may well be designed to drain water. If so, it is entirely possible that dews and damps are contributing to intermittent flows of water that drain into the lampholder, and that cross over the energized and grounded conductors to the metal of the lampholder housing which is electrically connected to the metal stake in the earth. Remember, it only takes a 5 milliamp leak from current path, whether on the energized or grounded conductor sides, to earth to trip the GFCI.
 
al hildenbrand said:
Here's one more thought. If this socket contains a standard medium-Edison-screw lampholder ( E26 ), you know, the socket that receives a standard (obsolete) grocery store incandescent 60 Watt bulb, then the LED light that is in it needs to be carefully considered. The labeling on the LED lamp must indicate that it is rated to be exposed directly to weather while mounted base-down. Even then, the portion of the lamp containing the electronics that are the power supply and driver for the LEDs in the lamp may well be designed to drain water. If so, it is entirely possible that dews and damps are contributing to intermittent flows of water that drain into the lampholder, and that cross over the energized and grounded conductors to the metal of the lampholder housing which is electrically connected to the metal stake in the earth. Remember, it only takes a 5 milliamp leak from current path, whether on the energized or grounded conductor sides, to earth to trip the GFCI.
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I was earlier thinking similar thing - maybe try aiming lamp below horizontal, not as a permanent fix but just to see if that makes any difference.

Just reread OP - I guess could just unplug the light and see if the GFCI continues to trip.

Other suggestion is get a permanently wired light instead of a plugged in light - it can be connected to supply side of the GFCI.
 
Try plugging the fixture into another GFI. Basement, garage, bath or kitchen. See if it trips within a few hours.

Try covering the fixture with a heavy duty bag, secure it around the stake nice and tight.

Try a different fixture into the GFI.

Try a halogen light bulb.
 
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