outlet boxes on round support poles

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if solid steel, drill& tap 1/4-20
if cement drill and use tapcons or hilti's....

thats what i've done no prob, clean install
 
wawireguy said:
Welding those boxes doesn't work to well. Was in a weld shop one time and they couldn't even weld a raised cover on to a box. Metal was way to soft for them to work with.
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Why would you weld a raised cover onto a box?
 
Tech 5, BABY

Tech 5, BABY

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I couldn't find exactly what I've used and heard is called a Tech 5 screw.
This is the closest I could find, but take the long screw and increase the
lenght of the self tap part by two or three times... :rolleyes:
 
This is what I like to use for the thick beams, otherwise I use Cadpoint's style of screw for the thinner stuff like Z channel, sheetmetal, etc.
 
Cow said:
This is what I like to use for the thick beams, otherwise I use Cadpoint's style of screw for the thinner stuff like Z channel, sheetmetal, etc.
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Thats what I'm talking about ... those things look like there ready to work all by themselves ...
 
cadpoint said:
Thats what I'm talking about ... those things look like there ready to work all by themselves ...
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Powder actuated or gas hilti paslode gx100 gas operated fasteners are for. If you make a mistake it is a problem these shots are not for the meek or beginers unsure of location. They are VERY final. I have all of these fastening systems because money is time and time is money. Be sure of what you are doing.
 
When I did a lot more traffic signal work, we used the Band-It tool a lot to mount stuff on round poles. There's a little piece you can slide over the banding and bolt to the boxes to mount boxes (called a Brack-It). Conduit just gets strapped the whole way around. Super fast, and super durable.
 
I would use u bolts. Mineralacs might work too, Do Tech 5 screws work like self tappers(Zip screws)? Very cool.
BTW Isn't it illeagal to drill into structural supports?
 
The hex screw that Cow showed is for drilling in Steel, it doesn't zip in,
Safety first and you might even break a sweat, but it will go...
It's as fast as tapping a hole would be ... no tool changing, just drive it...
When ever I see them on the job, I've pick them up, They can get you a raise on certain days .:rolleyes:
 
Speaking of screws, what type of screw is it exactly that comes with a 4" square box? Looking at some charts, it seems like a Type 23 point but I've yet to see a place that sells the exact screw.
 
kornbln said:
Speaking of screws, what type of screw is it exactly that comes with a 4" square box? Looking at some charts, it seems like a Type 23 point but I've yet to see a place that sells the exact screw.
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You mean the 8-32 cover screws with a thread-clearing edge?
 
We have the same problem here, we have used Rivnuts for years now, you drill a clearance hole in the column, screw the rivnut onto a threaded post the size of the rivnut your using. For example if you choose 1/4-20 rivnut than you need a 1/4-20 socket head cap screw about 2" long with the head cut off chucked in your cordless drill. Inserted the rivnut that you have threaded onto the chucked on the threaded screw in the predrilled hole and pull the go button this will cause the wall of the rivnut to collapse and tighten against the pipe wall inside and leave you with a nice threaded insert. Same concept as a drywall molly or concrete anchor. This is also a classic way to put threads in a thin piece of sheet metal. Wurth industrial supply and D.B.Robert are both suppliers of a variety of this rivnuts. Greenlee also make a drill and tap combo that works well but rather expensive to replace when someone goes like hell when using it.

good luck
LHarrington
 
LarryFine said:
Yeah, those. We call them 8-32 cover screws with a thread-clearing edge. :smile:
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Never seen any sites online selling the exact version though. With the combo head (slotted and philips)
 
I have used unistrut turned lengthwise with the opening facing the round post and a few inches left at the to and bottom of the box mounted to the unistrut. The opening kinda fits the curve of the post and stabilizes the mount. I then took a few worm clamps and captured the end of the unistrut at the top and bottom.

This held the box tight and there was nothing sticking out from the mounting.

I'm sorry I don't have a photo to help explain this.
 
kornbln said:
Never seen any sites online selling the exact version though. With the combo head (slotted and philips)
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Contact the box manufacturer, and see if they'll either sell you some screws or tell you where they get them.
 
1793 said:
I'm sorry I don't have a photo to help explain this.
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I got the picture, and it's a good idea, especially the part about using the strap clamps, and especially if the box is for temporary use.

If you're okay with screwing into the pole, you could use a piece of strut the size of the box, and just run the screws through the back of the box and the strut.
 
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