Outlets above a countertop

Status
Not open for further replies.
B

BjR

Member
Location
Seattle
Newbie here with a code question. I'm a remodeling general contractor in Seattle and have a client that wants me to have the electrician install the bottom of the outlet 1/2" above the countertop surface next to the stove because she wants to install a built in spice rack at a reachable height and above the outlet. Question I have is there any code considerations why we shouldn't do this at 1/2" above the countertop?
Thanks
BjR
 
When running that close to finish on a remodel you will want to strike a level line all the way around the room where the counter tops are and start setting the receptacles at the highest point to keep them from disappearing into the counter top when the cabinets get installed. I have seen kitchens going 1 1/2" out of level in just a few feet the older the home the worse the problem.
 
stickboy1375 said:
I did that once and they just tiled around my wire...:rolleyes: Was not a happy camper...
Click to expand...

Gotta love those tile guy's:mad: I love when you use one the adjustable box's so you can bring it out even with the finish, and they run them all the way in and tile over the edge so you can't do anything but use an Arlington box extender. Or worse they tile over the screw holes.
 
acrwc10 said:
Gotta love those tile guy's:mad: I love when you use one the adjustable box's so you can bring it out even with the finish, and they run them all the way in and tile over the edge so you can't do anything but use an Arlington box extender. Or worse they tile over the screw holes.
Click to expand...
Next time, extend the boxes before they tile.
 
LarryFine said:
Next time, extend the boxes before they tile.
Click to expand...
I'm fond of using the Smart Box, or the Arlington One Box for that application. Leave it stick out an obnoxious amount, and they have no choice but to tile around it properly. Put it back in to finished depth when you come to trim out.

Similar idea when I'm leaving a tail out, to keep the drywallers from not burying it in the wall. I drive a 16d nail halfway into the face of the stud and tape the tail to it.
 
My experience With leaving the box protruding has been not so good. Rotozips don't like stuff sticking out too far so their operators have been known around here to knock the box off the wall.

But it is a great option when you're dealing with craftsman coming behind you
 
counter height

counter height

BjR said:
Newbie here with a code question. I'm a remodeling general contractor in Seattle and have a client that wants me to have the electrician install the bottom of the outlet 1/2" above the countertop surface next to the stove because she wants to install a built in spice rack at a reachable height and above the outlet. Question I have is there any code considerations why we shouldn't do this at 1/2" above the countertop?
Thanks
BjR
Click to expand...

BjR,
A word of caution. If the counter cabinets are not in, make sure that...
1. what will be the final flooring height before cabs go in, otherwise thick flooring can be higher than 1/2" (ie. subfloor sheathing with tile over will most likely raise the counter surface location into the receptacle box Murphy gotcha zone.)
2. How thick will the countertop be if over 36" AFF.
3. What type of backsplash and how high it is (I.e. Could be 4" high leaving no room for vertical receptacle overlap and tight centering for horizontal box)
4. Make sure your counter and backsplash finish sub and electrician are on the same page to be aware of the crucial receptacle box height requirement.

Good luck. rbj
 
Last edited:
We just did a fire re-wire were the lady wanted the outlets at the HIGHEST point above the counter, just below the upper cabinets. She also wanted them horizontal. Sheetrock is on, trim should be soon. I will send pics
 
Minuteman said:
We just did a fire re-wire were the lady wanted the outlets at the HIGHEST point above the counter, just below the upper cabinets. She also wanted them horizontal. Sheetrock is on, trim should be soon. I will send pics
Click to expand...
That's where the horizontal smart box would have been real handy.
 
Jim W in Tampa said:
I suggest horizontal and would demand you as the GC to stap that line and verify it after box is in.So much as 1/4 inch off will look like s---
Click to expand...
Why would you make the GC do your job? Surely you're not incapable of installing boxes in a straight line. I know I'm not the only person who uses a laser for boxes in tiled backsplashes, since that's been mentioned by others here before.
 
Marc, I use a laser too. But like I mentioned, for me, if they are just above the counter I leave a tail and cut it in on finish. If they are not all perfect it looks like crap. When doing them that way I make sure I am always back before tile. :wink:
 
mdshunk said:
Why would you make the GC do your job? Surely you're not incapable of installing boxes in a straight line. I know I'm not the only person who uses a laser for boxes in tiled backsplashes, since that's been mentioned by others here before.
Click to expand...

Without him placing that line just what point on floor line will you referance the height ?Your asking for a problem unless you start with a perfect floor.Now with a normal height 1/2 will not be a problem.
 
walkerj said:
My experience With leaving the box protruding has been not so good. Rotozips don't like stuff sticking out too far so their operators have been known around here to knock the box off the wall.

But it is a great option when you're dealing with craftsman coming behind you
Click to expand...

That's because the GC is not doing his job. If it happens to me, I just tell the GC I'll charge extra for the repair and he can backcharge the drywallers.
 
LarryFine said:
Next time, extend the boxes before they tile.
Click to expand...


I love when you use one the adjustable box's so you can bring it out even with the finish, and they run them all the way in
Click to expand...

I am in the bussiness of making my life easier not harder, but some trades don't seem to want to play along. AKA sheetrockers and tile setters.
 
mdshunk said:
That's where the horizontal smart box would have been real handy.
Click to expand...
I just noticed today that my favorite supplier just started carrying the smart boxes. Unfortunately, I had to use a 4" square fiber box and plaster ring and turn the ring sideways.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top