Outside Receptacle

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ELAR

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I need to put a receptacle on the outside of an existing house. The exterior is brick, so how do I mount the receptacle box. If I come into the back of a weatherproof box, It will not be sealed at the romex connector. Should I just caulk the outside of the box when finished or is there a product designed for this?

Thank you.
 
I like using a donut of duct seal close enough to the connector that it will squeeze into the hole, as well as out over the irregular masonry surface.
 
I like Al's method as well. Another way I've done this is to use a 4-5" sleeve of PVC conduit and male adapter out the back of the box, just long enough to get through the brick and into the "dry" location of the wallspace.
 
There are numerous ways to do it.
How much brick do you want to remove? Just enough to squeeze a wire through, or the other extreme of recessing a box into it??
 
Why not recess the box into the brick? I use my Bosch rotary hammer for this. I drill out some brick with a rotary bit, and then square it up with a flat chisel bit. It should take you about 10 minutes with a little bit of practice. Here's one I did on my own house about 2 months ago:

RecRec.jpg


Last year, I cut two 2-gang boxes into a stone exterior for weatherproof control pads. The front plates only had about 1/2" of wall overlap, but my cuts were straight and with no surface chipping. The homeowner and the company that hired me were very happy with the results.
 
celtic said:
Nice job Larry...have you tried a Retro-fit In-box?
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Yes, about a month ago. It was the horizontal one, into plywood sheathing, before the vinyl siding was hung.
 
LarryFine said:
Yes, about a month ago. It was the horizontal one, into plywood sheathing, before the vinyl siding was hung.
Click to expand...

How did that work out...I have to add one (ok, 3 ) on my house :)

I put in 3 of the brick ones already....I post some pics when the porch is completed.
 
LarryFine said:
Why not recess the box into the brick? I use my Bosch rotary hammer for this. I drill out some brick with a rotary bit, and then square it up with a flat chisel bit. It should take you about 10 minutes with a little bit of practice. Here's one I did on my own house about 2 months ago:

RecRec.jpg


Last year, I cut two 2-gang boxes into a stone exterior for weatherproof control pads. The front plates only had about 1/2" of wall overlap, but my cuts were straight and with no surface chipping. The homeowner and the company that hired me were very happy with the results.
Click to expand...

Where is the GFI?
 
Maybe its not accessible to grade. Nice job though. I caulk my boxes top and sides with a good caulk. I like the duct seal idea though. I also drill on a slight incline up so that the hole will not drain water into the building when I surface mount a box. I don't try recessing the box if the mortar is old and sandy. It will let the brick loose and then you really have problems. Sometimes if Its an irregular surface I will use just a PVC male adapter. Just enough to chase the wire into the back of the box and not expose anything. then caulk it in.
 
GUNNING said:
I also drill on a slight incline up so that the hole will not drain water into the building when I surface mount a box.

So, I'm not the only one that does that. In my opinion, good workmanship is doing things that will never get noticed, unless you don't do them.
steve
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GUNNING said:
Sometimes if Its an irregular surface I will use just a PVC male adapter. Just enough to chase the wire into the back of the box and not expose anything. then caulk it in.
Click to expand...

What about the romex connector?
How many of you guys just don't bother with the connector when surface mounting a weatherproof box, fed from the back with romex? I confess I have been guilty of this, once or twice. It doesn't make it right, but I see it done this way all the time when I open existing boxes.

John
 
I always install a romex connector where required (on romex of course), no exception.
Those plastic ones work well in this situation.
steve
 
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