panel making "LOUD" hum

[steve66]

People can't have more than 1 watt per sq foot of light, and every new building has to have occupancy sensors everywhere, or a fancy lighting control panel that turns off the lights at 5:00. But you can still put as much electric heat on the paito as we want.

:-?

 

[acrwc10]

People can't have more than 1 watt per sq foot of light, and every new building has to have occupancy sensors everywhere, or a fancy lighting control panel that turns off the lights at 5:00. But you can still put as much electric heat on the paito as we want.

:-?

If it makes you feel any better I put timers in place of the single pole switches that were controlling them, and they have a 60 min max time before you have to turn them on again :grin: No going to bed and leaving the heat on all night.

 

[Lxnxjxhx]

one other interesting thing

one other interesting thing

"There was one other interesting thing in all this the "electrician" had used rubber washers from a garden hose as bushings to mount the contactors on, if you look in the second picture on the bottom of the upper contactor you can see a little red piece of one."

I think he was trying to make isolators, like shock mounts, to reduce the noise. . .plus 1 point.

If the washers had the right "mechanical compliance", it might have worked, assuming the panel was amplifying the noise. . .zero points.

If it didn't work, I guess the next band-aid was to deafen the homeowner. . .minus 10 points.

Are we having fun yet?

 

[wireman71]

I'm not 100% sure but I think the contactors need to be UL listed. I'm thinking that you can't use non-UL contactors in a roll your own setup. It's also crawling round in the back of my head that you can only use non-UL breakers as replacements in a UL listed assembly. Maybe someone will chime in on that. Personally I don't really care but the inspectors here seem to have nothing better to do than look at UL stickers sometimes. That whole setup is one big pile of hack electric!

 

[acrwc10]

I'm not 100% sure but I think the contactors need to be UL listed. I'm thinking that you can't use non-UL contactors in a roll your own setup. It's also crawling round in the back of my head that you can only use non-UL breakers as replacements in a UL listed assembly. Maybe someone will chime in on that. Personally I don't really care but the inspectors here seem to have nothing better to do than look at UL stickers sometimes. That whole setup is one big pile of hack electric!

????????????????????????????? HUH ???????????????

 

[kenq]

Hi,
I'm new to this place, and was looking for some insight on an toally unrelated subject, I guess.........BUT

I have NEVER seen a contactor mounted in a PB.
I would NEVER do that.......
Maybe I'm from Mars and I don't know any better.
I'm an industrial controls tech, and have done a fair amount of residential stuff on the side, but this is a joke in my book.

But I would say the UL tag on the side of that enclosure is for a Load center only, not a control cabinet......
I'd think the only reason to mount a relay or contactor IN that board would be to switch a 220 load over 110 control anyway, no?
So that would mean being lazy...
"I want to control my pool heater with my old light switch......."
Well, lady, I can do it for $500 or $1500..........Let's see..I use that as a switch leg, and if nobody sees it, I can jam a relay in here and whammo........Easy $500.



I'm not as tight on the code as most of you seem to be, I don't need to be.But my people on my planet would mount a separate listed control cabinet. And if you thought about it, you could switch it with 24 , save on the wire, components and labor......And still make money. And be compliant.


KEN

 

[acrwc10]

People can't have more than 1 watt per sq foot of light, and every new building has to have occupancy sensors everywhere, or a fancy lighting control panel that turns off the lights at 5:00. But you can still put as much electric heat on the patio as we want.

:-?

So I took a picture of the heaters to give some perspective.

[/IMG]

 

[LarryFine]

. . . I put timers in place of the single pole switches that were controlling them, and they have a 60 min max time . . . No going to bed and leaving the heat on all night.

I did the same thing for each of our 4 bath fans.