I always avoid setting switch boxes at 48" to center. They are right in the mud joint and get piled full. I have used 14" to the bottom of the box for recepts and 42" to the bottom for switches, counter top recepts and bath vanity recepts for 20 years. Works well for me.
Panelboard and Receptacle Minimum Heights
- Thread starter threephase
- Start date
- Status
jjhoward
Senior Member
- Location
- Northern NJ
- Occupation
- Owner TJ Electric
We put the bottom of switches at 50" to get above the mudline.
Receptacles are hammer height.
Counter height often changes to accomodate different backsplashes or HO wishes for receptacles in or over the backsplash.
Receptacles are hammer height.
Counter height often changes to accomodate different backsplashes or HO wishes for receptacles in or over the backsplash.
Jim W in Tampa
Senior Member
- Location
- Tampa Florida
tallgirl said:Heh. How does random heights affect 210.52 (A) (1)? If "random" is 5' AFF for an outlet, there's not a lot of space measured along that floor line that's within 6' of that outlet
I found a house recently where the bottom was 16" AFF. That was starting to look really weird. I was afraid it was someone elses doing, so I looked for the rust stains on the studs (the house was old enough that all the boxes were metal) and sure enough -- 16" AFF.
I'm not sure whether I've just been insulted or not!
My biggie on height is panels with lift-up doors. It seems that someone out there conspires to set them so that the edge of the door whacks me in the head if I don't duck first.
Your not doing this right.The 6 feet is a horizontal only number not diaginal.
- Location
- Massachusetts
Jim W in Tampa said:
I agree.
Typically we put all our panels 6'6" to the top of the enclosure.
18" on center for low stuff, 44" for middle stuff and 48" for high stuff.
allenwayne
Senior Member
Mike03a3 said:
It`s a back breaker to say the least.This is a major custom builder here and all of the homes they build use these receptacle and switch heights.The idea for the switch height is that the HO doesn`t have to lift there hand away from the waist to hit a switch (stupid if you ask me ) The receptacle height (well I have no idea about that one ????? )But the kitchen countertop receps. are a real pain to box all horizontal.So you have to cut 2x4s for the gfci device boxes and use a std.1 gang box. To avoid playing carpenter for every counter top recep.I like to use fiber 4 sqs and p rings for the rest.
Even a 1/4 in difference in height when on a tile wall is really noticable so I found that if you just measured the heights from the slab,when cabinets are installed level and the back splash is tiled as these all are you have to use a level line between receps or you will be off.Hats off to the makers of laser levels.
I have to say one thing for this builder though.This is one of the few I have dealt with that says lighting takes president over all other trades.They use alot of recessed cans usually 100 to 150 per home as an average.So if there is a vent or pipe in the way of a semetrical lay out the other trades have to move not us
That`s a rarity.allenwayne
Senior Member
One jig I have used works real easy no line has to be drawn at all.Take a piece of furring strip and measure the height of the recep and then the switch/ counter top box.Drive a nail through each line on opposite sides one side for receps and other side for switches/counter top boxes.All you have to do is place the jig nail facing the stud/furring and swipe it across the edge of the lumber it leaves a visible scratch line.As a side note I don`t measure to the bottom or center of a box.I like to use the top of a box.It`s easier to see the top rather than bend down to make sure it is at the bottom.But to each his own
- Location
- New Jersey
- Occupation
- Journeyman Electrician (retired)
allenwayne said:But the kitchen countertop receps. are a real pain to box all horizontal.So you have to cut 2x4s for the gfci device boxes and use a std.1 gang box. To avoid playing carpenter for every counter top recep.I like to use fiber 4 sqs and p rings for the rest.
Even a 1/4 in difference in height when on a tile wall is really noticable so I found that if you just measured the heights from the slab,when cabinets are installed level and the back splash is tiled as these all are you have to use a level line between receps or you will be off.Hats off to the makers of laser levels.
I have to say one thing for this builder though.This is one of the few I have dealt with that says lighting takes president over all other trades.They use alot of recessed cans usually 100 to 150 per home as an average.So if there is a vent or pipe in the way of a semetrical lay out the other trades have to move not us
Someone makes a single gang plastic box that is designed to be mounted horizontally.
And when mounting boxes in a tile backsplash we always use a laser to set the boxes. Like you said even a 1/4" difference between boxes will be noticeable.
JohnE
Senior Member
- Location
- Milford, MA
- Occupation
- Electrical Contractor, Inspector
infinity said:
I saw those in EC magazine last month. I can't remember who makes them.
- Location
- New Jersey
- Occupation
- Journeyman Electrician (retired)
j_erickson said:
Thanks, I couldn't remember where I saw them. The link:
http://www.passandseymour.com/
- Location
- Windsor, CO NEC: 2023
- Occupation
- Hospital Master Electrician
Not as a standard, but it was a contractor standard. They "didn't want the switches to interfere with artwork on the walls". So, it left plenty of room for the Led Zepplin and the "Hang in there" Kitty poster.Mike03a3 said:
Sure, now somebody makes them. Those are the perfect boxes for rope light receptacles over cabinets, I wish I had access to them before.
Tallgirl said:
I agree with Jim Walker. The noon-day shadow of the outlet box determines it's position in relation to 210.52 and 210.52(A)(1).Tallgirl said:
sparky_magoo
Senior Member
- Location
- Reno
I haven't seen the horizontal boxes before. The idea is long over due. Unfortunately, are supllier doesn't carry P&S.
I don't have a laser. I either snap a chaulk line or run a string to line up kitchen outlets.
I don't have a laser. I either snap a chaulk line or run a string to line up kitchen outlets.
DaveTap
Senior Member
- Location
- Currently Flowery Branch, GA
The old standard was 12" above finished floor... unfinished basements and garages at least 18"
ADA requires at least 15" to the bottom of the cover and no higher than 48"
ADA requires at least 15" to the bottom of the cover and no higher than 48"
- Location
- Massachusetts
DaveTap said:
Dave look at Rogers post a couple above yours.
stickboy1375
Senior Member
- Location
- Litchfield, CT
DaveTap said:
Thats funny I install them in the baseboard all the time...( were you still talking about ADA?)
tallgirl
Senior Member
- Location
- Glendale, WI
- Occupation
- Controls Systems firmware engineer
The house I finish trimmed today had the outlets about 16" AFF and the switches about 32" AFF. It's 40" from the ground to my waist, and the top of the switch boxes were a good 4 or 5" below my waist. That's the weirdest pair of heights I've ever seen ...
stickboy1375
Senior Member
- Location
- Litchfield, CT
That is a weird height, When I rough a house I like all the switches the same height, so I use 42" to the bottom of the box, even works in the kitchen so everything the same, as for my outlets I perfer 14" to the bottom of the box... I make two jigs up for my heights... works perfect as long as you dont get hung up on the plate...
Jim W in Tampa
Senior Member
- Location
- Tampa Florida
tallgirl said:
32 is a bit crazy but if thats what they want then give it to them.My x partner was scared he was going to end up in a wheel chair so all the houses i built for him had them about that low.If he had just stoped trying to reach bottles of vodka he would still be alive.He never ever ended up in wheel chair untill a few months before passing away.
The switches next to my bed are that low but are intended for use while in bed and to keep them below the chair rail.
- Status