The label is on the sidewall of the box, if wiring inside is a mess not going to be easy to read.
Panels and tandems and approvals oh my...
- Thread starter ritelec
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The label is on the sidewall of the box, if wiring inside is a mess not going to be easy to read.
So I opened the panel and found some info (enclosed) it looks like the bottom 6 on both sides accept tandems . I plan on taking the breakers on the bottom and move them to the top part of the panel, load the bottom up with tandems and move single poles to the bottom freeing me up with two spaces on top for a two pole generator breaker.And replacing all non ITE breakers (Murray, Sq D, Bryant)
Supply house has tandems at $22 each.. I looked on line (in case home owner does) and see siemens tandems at $12 (type QT) and $22 (type QT NCL) and I just called the supply house and theirs are NC ($22) ??
I'm thinking the straight QT doesn't have the rejection tab and can fit anywhere in the panel same as all above... but as I look on line I do find some that say CTL on them.. whats so different about the
$12 dollar breaker than the $22 dollar breaker (besides 10 dollars). (going to supply house to check his tandems)
I didn't pull the all black breakers with no writing, do you think they are ITE and can remain? I'm planning on replacing all the breakers to siemens except for the existing ITE.. do you agree??
Also.. from what I understand they do not make a "UL" approved geberator lock out for this panel, but a google search comes up with this
https://www.ebay.com/itm/ITE-200A-M...h=item43c06a93b3:g:8AEAAOxyUrZSvv5n:rk:1:pf:0
Anyone see anything earth shattering installing it? Or would you opt for putting a subpanel in with UL lock out and move crucial circs. to that panel? I'm all for that UL but there's no inspection and I figure as long as it works and locks the panel out. besides... those passed stickers on the panel are from 2015 and 2016... if the inspector let the assortment of breakers go in that panel, should I get bunched up about the lock out??
sorry for the sideways pics
Supply house has tandems at $22 each.. I looked on line (in case home owner does) and see siemens tandems at $12 (type QT) and $22 (type QT NCL) and I just called the supply house and theirs are NC ($22) ??
I'm thinking the straight QT doesn't have the rejection tab and can fit anywhere in the panel same as all above... but as I look on line I do find some that say CTL on them.. whats so different about the
$12 dollar breaker than the $22 dollar breaker (besides 10 dollars). (going to supply house to check his tandems)
I didn't pull the all black breakers with no writing, do you think they are ITE and can remain? I'm planning on replacing all the breakers to siemens except for the existing ITE.. do you agree??
Also.. from what I understand they do not make a "UL" approved geberator lock out for this panel, but a google search comes up with this
https://www.ebay.com/itm/ITE-200A-M...h=item43c06a93b3:g:8AEAAOxyUrZSvv5n:rk:1:pf:0
Anyone see anything earth shattering installing it? Or would you opt for putting a subpanel in with UL lock out and move crucial circs. to that panel? I'm all for that UL but there's no inspection and I figure as long as it works and locks the panel out. besides... those passed stickers on the panel are from 2015 and 2016... if the inspector let the assortment of breakers go in that panel, should I get bunched up about the lock out??
sorry for the sideways pics
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Learn something new every day.. so their are Q breakers QT breakers, NC, ... Somewhere along the line the NC tandem fits in the entire panel and it's a 18 to 22 dollar breaker. the Q tandem is 8 - 12 dollars and will only fit in an approved spot in panels...
So it appears that the approved tandem breaker in the approved tandem spot is cheaper than the "cheater" NC breaker that fits anywhere in the panel breaker..
Would be a savings of 100-120 bucks for the 12 spots. The local supplier has the $22 cheater but the supplier who carries the ONLY tandem spot breaker is an hour back and forth to that supply house ... (something to consider)...
So it appears that the approved tandem breaker in the approved tandem spot is cheaper than the "cheater" NC breaker that fits anywhere in the panel breaker..
Would be a savings of 100-120 bucks for the 12 spots. The local supplier has the $22 cheater but the supplier who carries the ONLY tandem spot breaker is an hour back and forth to that supply house ... (something to consider)...
jaggedben
Senior Member
- Location
- Northern California
- Occupation
- Solar and Energy Storage Installer
Yup, you're not crazy. Just trying to drive yourself crazy to save every last buck when you're still guessing if you need the no-rejection tab breakers or not. Been there.
:slaphead:
BTW those Eaton BRD breakers at the top don't have rejection tabs, and are more expensive. So my guess is that the busbar stabs are solid where marked for one pole, and notched where marked for tandems.
If it's not being inspected I'd feel just as good about using Murray as Siemens. They are physically the same.
:slaphead:
BTW those Eaton BRD breakers at the top don't have rejection tabs, and are more expensive. So my guess is that the busbar stabs are solid where marked for one pole, and notched where marked for tandems.
If it's not being inspected I'd feel just as good about using Murray as Siemens. They are physically the same.
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