Pipe bending

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bernardmulherin1978

bernardmulherin1978

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augusta georgia
I have been running and bending pipe for twenty years, its the first thing I learned in the electrical field, but would like to know from someone who might possibly tell me the best way to find the right degree on a kick I need on a piece of 3-1/2 inch rigid. I know how to use a protractor when your finding the degree vertically, but the kick is going horizontally. I know that I could measure how much I would need off the wall possibly, and I don't have a way to cut and thread, any pointers would be appreciated.

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bernardmulherin1978 said:
I have been running and bending pipe for twenty years, its the first thing I learned in the electrical field, but would like to know from someone who might possibly tell me the best way to find the right degree on a kick I need on a piece of 3-1/2 inch rigid. I know how to use a protractor when your finding the degree vertically, but the kick is going horizontally. I know that I could measure how much I would need off the wall possibly, and I don't have a way to cut and thread, any pointers would be appreciated.

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Click to expand...
Here is a picture, the 90 points past the corner and swinging to the back to get behind the steal beam. I possibly could offset, but would cut it close as far as my bends being close enough, so the bend wouldn't go into the beam, I need to hug the back side of the beam. Right angle beam clamp at the first beam, the owners do not want to see a lot of hardware !I tried to explain this to five guys today, and maybe I am not making it clear, one of the guys said a kick wouldn't work, I realize I may have put a few degrees to much possibly, I tried to explain that you can slide the pipe (too and fro) to get it to line up, a nipple may be needed, is there any real American people out there that still can run pipe or has mc cable made these new not have to learn.

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Here it is sorry bout that
0493e50f6859e8c5bfdc67d5eb356f7d.jpg


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I also dont see the beam your referring to where do u need to go out of that 90?

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bernardmulherin1978 said:
Here is a picture, the 90 points past the corner and swinging to the back to get behind the steal beam. I possibly could offset, but would cut it close as far as my bends being close enough, so the bend wouldn't go into the beam, I need to hug the back side of the beam. Right angle beam clamp at the first beam, the owners do not want to see a lot of hardware !I tried to explain this to five guys today, and maybe I am not making it clear, one of the guys said a kick wouldn't work, I realize I may have put a few degrees to much possibly, I tried to explain that you can slide the pipe (too and fro) to get it to line up, a nipple may be needed, is there any real American people out there that still can run pipe or has mc cable made these new not have to learn.
Click to expand...

well, the photo is pretty blurry, and it's hard to tell
from the description what you are trying to do.
sorta like you telling us what you see in the rear view
mirror, and we are going to tell you how to parallel park.

if you can't thread, how are you going to make a nipple?

i can bend off of segments, but it doesn't sound like you
need to go there. i'd make a kick, level the long end, pull
a string off the backside, and measure the kick while the
pipe is still in the bender. i usually bend off levels. it's
faster, and usually works out better.
 
bernardmulherin1978 said:
.... I know that I could measure how much I would need off the wall possibly, and I don't have a way to cut and thread, any pointers would be appreciated.
Click to expand...
Yep. If you can't measure angle, the square measures are required for using trigonometry.

I can understand no means to thread on some jobs (tell PM you'll need threadless couplings and connectors and see whether or not you get a threader), but no means to cut means you have a &*%^*% for a PM/employer. Sounds like a place that says "Is your hack saw broken?" The strange part is you have a bender. :blink:


PS: What make and model bender?
 
Sorry about the blur, the beam is to the left about three feet from the edge of the panel,, the 90 is pointing to the back wall at a angle its not going to be parallel with the wall

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I agree a kick would work and honestly degree doesnt matter much as youd have to hydraulic it.. IMHO start slight and add from there. (15 yrs and unlimited here) do all the math you want but trail and error is faster. I use to know formulas but bending by eye is faster. *and I bend emt everyday btw.

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bernardmulherin1978 said:
I tried to explain this to five guys today, and maybe I am not making it clear, one of the guys said a kick wouldn't work, I realize I may have put a few degrees to much possibly, I tried to explain that you can slide the pipe (too and fro) to get it to line up, a nipple may be needed, is there any real American people out there that still can run pipe or has mc cable made these new not have to learn.
Click to expand...


I'm not sure I understand what you are trying to do either.

The picture is not real clear. How much distance do you need to get to the back side of the beam?

I would think that the kick would need to be before the 90 and all you would need to know is how much difference there is between where the conduit is off the wall now and where you wish it to be. Then you put the conduit back in the bender, make sure the 90 is level and kick it that distance.
 
KnightPower said:
I agree a kick would work and honestly degree doesnt matter much as youd have to hydraulic it.. IMHO start slight and add from there. (15 yrs and unlimited here) do all the math you want but trail and error is faster. I use to know formulas but bending by eye is faster. *and I bend emt everyday btw.
Click to expand...
Trial and error is fine for some, but errors in rigid are very costly. You don't necessarily realize you are paying for that error in the long run. Most contractors would rather you spend the money with time only (i.e. wages) doing the math... and this can be bent with almost no math at all. Using more math is the only means of checking whether the kick will work, versus bending it, assembling it, then attempting to 'hang' it, only to find it won't.
 
@bernardmulherin1978

Need measures... exact measures.

  • Standoff of riser (i.e. the distance the back or front of conduit is off wall)
  • Distance from center of riser (or left or right side; specify) to left end of wall immediately behind riser
  • Offset to back of vertical beam from wall behind riser (if need be, stretch a string along and past wall to get measurement)
  • Distance from center of riser to beam as measured along wall (i.e. square measure, not angular)
What is that to the extreme left side in your picture (after the sheetrock)?
 
Youre correct but I cant stress enough that in this situation best to underbend until youre sure about fit. Easier to add than to take away.

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Smart $ said:
Crude representation?
View attachment 18342
Click to expand...
I think the top drawing is what he is trying to describe if that is what you would have looking down at it, if so the one flaw is the elbow is already parallel to the wall and can not be turned like that. I still see needing two bends - an offset as the corner of the wall is in the path for just a one bend application like that.
 
KnightPower said:
I agree a kick would work and honestly degree doesnt matter much as youd have to hydraulic it.. IMHO start slight and add from there. (15 yrs and unlimited here) do all the math you want but trail and error is faster. I use to know formulas but bending by eye is faster. *and I bend emt everyday btw.

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Click to expand...
A 21st century phone to explain a 19th century technique?
 
kwired said:
I think the top drawing is what he is trying to describe if that is what you would have looking down at it, if so the one flaw is the elbow is already parallel to the wall and can not be turned like that. I still see needing two bends - an offset as the corner of the wall is in the path for just a one bend application like that.
Click to expand...
It can be turned like that to a degree (or several if being literal :D)... but whether or not the run will miss the corner is the big IF.
 
Measure the distance your trying to kick to then I belive

you just use your multipliers as if you were bending offsets 30x2

22' x 2.6 etc but measure from back of the 90


and if you ising a side winder or hydrolinc bender level the bender
then measure distance of conduit from floor and then measure the conduit

and subtract the difference
 
liquidtite said:
Measure the distance your trying to kick to then I belive

you just use your multipliers as if you were bending offsets 30x2

22' x 2.6 etc but measure from back of the 90


and if you ising a side winder or hydrolinc bender level the bender
then measure distance of conduit from floor and then measure the conduit

and subtract the difference
Click to expand...
Essentially... but the details will vary. For instance, I doubt the kick is anywhere close to 22.5 or 30 degrees. Probably like 10 degrees. The 90 will have to be assembled onto the run stick... or use a nipple or another stick in its place. How it is measured when being bent depends on what type of bender (which is why I asked earlier). 880? 881? Other?

At the rate we're getting info, it's gonna take forever and a day to get this done over the internet. :blink:
 
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