Alwayslearningelec
Senior Member
- Location
- NJ
- Occupation
- Estimator
Simply splice together 2/0 THHN in a junction box what's your preferred splice material/method to use....barring any spec calling for particulars. Split bolt, Ilsco tap block etc.
Preferred Splice
- Thread starter Alwayslearningelec
- Start date
- Status
- Location
- New Jersey
- Occupation
- Journeyman Electrician
Ilsco/polaris type splice. On something like a riser with multiple splices crimp connectors with cold shrinks.
Alwayslearningelec
Senior Member
- Location
- NJ
- Occupation
- Estimator
Just a 150' horizontal run where we are transitioning from EMT/THHN to MC cable.
- Location
- Illinois
- Occupation
- retired electrician
My preference is always a crimp type connection over a mechanical connection.
- Location
- New Jersey
- Occupation
- Journeyman Electrician
For that I would use an Ilsco type. As Don mentioned crimp type are the best but require more advanced tools.
Alwayslearningelec
Senior Member
- Location
- NJ
- Occupation
- Estimator
Crimp is same as butt and barrel splice?
ptonsparky
Tom
- Occupation
- EC - retired
Butt splices could use set screws vs a high pressure crimp.
- Location
- New Jersey
- Occupation
- Journeyman Electrician
Yes there are many names for the same thing with different variations depending on how the wire is connected. What I'm referring to is one of these which is compressed by a tool and insulated with a cold shrink.
- Location
- Illinois
- Occupation
- retired electrician
Same here
Same here as far as the connection device, by my preference is for heavy wall, glue filled, heat shrink....unless I am outside in cold temperatures, then I use cold shrink.Yes there are many names for the same thing with different variations depending on how the wire is connected. What I'm referring to is one of these which is compressed by a tool and insulated with a cold shrink.
kwired
Electron manager
- Location
- NE Nebraska
- Occupation
- EC
crimp usually much less expensive, if you already have the crimping tool. And likely better overall connection than a mechanically reversible connection.
The other question is to you want to be able to open the connection someday or make additional tap/runs from that junction point? Crimped connections would need to be cut off and results in slightly shorter conductor every time you do so.
- Location
- Bremerton, Washington
- Occupation
- Master Electrician
Or use a crimp on 1 hole lug on each conductor, with SS nut and bolt, 3m tape sticky side out, a bit of insulation pully and then 3 over it all.
With this or the polaris the wires are easier to train into the j box over a barrel crimp splice
With this or the polaris the wires are easier to train into the j box over a barrel crimp splice
- Location
- New Jersey
- Occupation
- Journeyman Electrician
I've seen that done and always wondered if the terminals are listed to be used that way. Seem somewhat prevalent in motor connections.
kwired
Electron manager
- Location
- NE Nebraska
- Occupation
- EC
Do they specify anywhere in listing what you must bolt it to? It just has a hole in it to secure it to whatever you are going to attach it to and a crimp barrel to land the conductor in.
I've used two port set screw type lugs as for general splicing before and just insulated it. Sometimes you use what is available even if it isn't what is preferred.
- Location
- Illinois
- Occupation
- retired electrician
The only way I have ever done motor connections, except on the larger ones I would use Raychem GelCaps in place of 130C and 33+ tape.
kwired
Electron manager
- Location
- NE Nebraska
- Occupation
- EC
What do you call a large motor? that can vary quite a bit from one person to another.
I myself kind of call 200 maybe 250 hp sort of larger, because that is about all the larger I have worked on, but know in reality these are not all that large to the industry as a whole.
100 hp and less I sort of call common everyday items though. Does sort of stink connecting a 50+ HP motor to 208-240 volts just because the large conductors compared to same thing @ 480 volts, but seem to run into less of those that aren't 480 volts than what it used to be.
romex jockey
Senior Member
- Location
- Vermont
- Occupation
- electrician
Brush conductors, no-lox, split bolt, scotchkoat, thin layer of dux seal, mastic tape, regular tape.....~RJ~
- Location
- New Jersey
- Occupation
- Journeyman Electrician
Split bolt and tape? IMO those things have outlived their usefulness for anything other than bonding and grounding. Ilsco type splice, strip conductor, insert, snug with impact gun, hit with torque wrench, done. Failure rate about zero.
ptonsparky
Tom
- Occupation
- EC - retired
Split bolt when it is the only item on my truck for a repair that needs to happen NOW.
electrofelon
Senior Member
- Location
- Cherry Valley NY, Seattle, WA
For me usually mechanical butt splice with rubber tape. The Polaris type connectors are super nice, but they are spendy enough that often I find the bare mechanical a better value.
- Status