Proper way to crimp a butt splice?

[JFletcher]

I am guessing you would really not like my "in a emergency" method of using a hammer then........

Hammer, no. :happyno: Two pairs of channel-locks will seat a compression connector correctly, believe it or not... but a Data Shark stripper and a crimp tool cost the same and do it faster and right, every time.

 

[jaylectricity]

The hard plastic of the CE is tough on the hands and prone to just breaking

I haven't any problems like that, but the grips do tend to slip off the handle a little bit if I'm trying to forcibly pull a wire or snake out of the wall.

I only carry the one pair of pliers, a 6" #2 flathead screwdriver, a multi-screwdriver that takes regular bits as a phillips, and a utility knife as far as hand tools. Everything else stays in the truck unless I need it for something specific, which is hardly ever. My drill bag has my drill, an extra battery, a charger, a box of various driver tips, a box of drill bits, a multi-tester and a wiggy. Oh and a Lenox bit.

 

[iwire]

Hammer, no. :happyno: Two pairs of channel-locks will seat a compression connector correctly, believe it or not...

Believe it or not the only code compliant method is to use the tool the manufacturer of the crimp specifies.

 

[K8MHZ]

Believe it or not the only code compliant method is to use the tool the manufacturer of the crimp specifies.

That's why you look for this on the label:

These splices are easily crimped using any standard electrical terminal crimper.

 

[K8MHZ]

A while back there was a poster here that worked for T&B. He made a post about crimping insulated terminals. The proper way is to use a 'Sta-kon' type set of pliers, and use the part of the jaw for uninsulated terminals. One crimp is made on the narrow part of the insulation, squeezing the metal down on the conductor. A second crimp is made on the wider part, squeezing that down on the insulation of the conductor. The second crimp is held down very tight, making a 'cold weld' of the terminal insulation around the conductor insulation to provide strain relief.

I tried that once, now it's the only way I do it. The method works great and actually looks good, too. If I have time later I will make a crimp and take a picture of it and post it here.

I bought a cheap set of metered crimpers from HF and I don't like them.

 

[iwire]

That's why you look for this on the label:

These splices are easily crimped using any standard electrical terminal crimper.

Sorry I don't use junk terminals.

 

[K8MHZ]

Sorry I don't use junk terminals.

Good terminals allow the use of 'junk' crimpers. Check out the instructions for 3M (I just grabbed a box of Highlands). One of the recommended tools is a stripper/crimper that is EXACTLY like the Ideal and G&B ones. Of course, they also have the good metered crimpers on the 'approved' list, too.

So, do you really have different crimpers for every different brand of connectors you use?

I don't, and I am not going to give in to what is an obvious attempt at forced sales.

 

[kwired]

I am guessing you would really not like my "in a emergency" method of using a hammer then........

I was reading through several posts with that method in mind as a response - someone beat me to it.

I prefer to only use these type of connectors for low current applications and don't believe they are worth while using an expensive crimp tool for most general use applications. If reliability of the connection is that critical - use a different connection method or maybe the expensive tool and a high grade connector. Unless you specify the high grade you get whatever the supply house guy grabs for you, if at big box store they are medium grade at best.

 

[iwire]

G
So, do you really have different crimpers for every different brand of connectors you use?

No, not at all

But consider the context I had quoted when I made my post.

Two pairs of channel-locks will seat a compression connector correctly, believe it or not.

I have no doubt that can make a good connection, but code wise it is not the correct way.

I don't, and I am not going to give in to what is an obvious attempt at forced sales.

How many electrical inspections do you deal with?

I don't deal with many inspections anymore so in my service van I do not have dozens of crimpers, I have a few and feel I can do a good job with them. However our tool warehouse does and when the construction side does jobs like PV arrays they must have the specific crimper for the specific connectors we are using, often controlled cycle ones and I am talking from 10 AWG and up.

 

[ATSman]

This is a tool I have been using for approx 26 yrs on all type and brand connectors and it hasn't
failed me yet. It was approved by the AHJ for use on a sustation project at the Lawrence Livermore Lab facility in CA in the 90's. It has extra long handles for us old-timers and back then ran about $250.

 

[K8MHZ]

No, not at all


How many electrical inspections do you deal with?

I don't deal with many inspections anymore so in my service van I do not have dozens of crimpers, I have a few and feel I can do a good job with them. However our tool warehouse does and when the construction side does jobs like PV arrays they must have the specific crimper for the specific connectors we are using, often controlled cycle ones and I am talking from 10 AWG and up.

I am talking about the terminals the OP had pictured. I deal with my share of inspections, but the only time a specific crimper was required would be when we were in power houses, which aren't 'inspected', but are instead overseen by project engineers. When we were required to use specific crimpers, they were provided by the POCO.

I admit that just about the only other times I have used crimp connectors was in factories with no inspections and for my own stuff.

I haven't done any PV arrays. Are connectors like the OP pictured used on them?

 

[jaylectricity]

Good terminals allow the use of 'junk' crimpers. Check out the instructions for 3M (I just grabbed a box of Highlands). One of the recommended tools is a stripper/crimper that is EXACTLY like the Ideal and G&B ones. Of course, they also have the good metered crimpers on the 'approved' list, too.

So, do you really have different crimpers for every different brand of connectors you use?

I don't, and I am not going to give in to what is an obvious attempt at forced sales.

So let's say the manufacturer of the splices puts into the instructions that their tool must be used. Seems obvious, right?

Now let's say a competitor makes a splicer and they put into their instructions that you can crimp it with whatever tool you have available. Who is going to sell more splicers?

 

[Smart $]

... Who is going to sell more splicers?

Hard to say. Total sales will be based on a lot more parameters than what crimper is required. You might say all other issues being equal... but in reality, all other issues are seldom equal: brand, cost, reputation, what supply house stocks, etc.... even whether the crimper used affects the job, e.g. this particular aspect of a job is inspected, or it is under the purview of an inspection but seldom inspected, or it may not even be subject to inspection.

 

[mgookin]

So let's say the manufacturer of the splices puts into the instructions that their tool must be used. Seems obvious, right?

Now let's say a competitor makes a splicer and they put into their instructions that you can crimp it with whatever tool you have available. Who is going to sell more splicers?

That 2nd one is less likely to get a listing or the same level of listing.

 

[iwire]

I am talking about the terminals the OP had pictured.

As was I for the most part but the same rules and codes apply to those simple common butt splices as any crimp connector large, small etc.

I deal with my share of inspections, but the only time a specific crimper was required would be when we were in power houses, which aren't 'inspected', but are instead overseen by project engineers. When we were required to use specific crimpers, they were provided by the POCO.

My point was simply this, if we are talking about the correct way to make crimp connections I think it is worth while to mention the code rules. If we follow them or not may be another story

I haven't done any PV arrays. Are connectors like the OP pictured used on them?

No, mostly these types. This video points out recommended tools vs tools required to maintain the listing. I do have one of these kits they show.

 

[kwired]

Just a little off topic yet close enough - from what I recall sitting through a recent CEU class 2017 NEC has a change (possibly somewhere in 110.14) that is more strict on usage of torquing tools for mechanical connections. Don't have a 2017 copy yet and can't recall exactly what the wording is, but do remember having the discussion of how it may get enforced, as it is about impossible to have an inspector verify you properly torqued every connection, but you possibly may need to at least be able to show them you do have a proper tool to get it done right. This was supposedly going to effect proper torque of wall switches and receptacles terminations, not just circuit breaker terminals or motor controller terminals.

 

[mbrooke]

Just a little off topic yet close enough - from what I recall sitting through a recent CEU class 2017 NEC has a change (possibly somewhere in 110.14) that is more strict on usage of torquing tools for mechanical connections. Don't have a 2017 copy yet and can't recall exactly what the wording is, but do remember having the discussion of how it may get enforced, as it is about impossible to have an inspector verify you properly torqued every connection, but you possibly may need to at least be able to show them you do have a proper tool to get it done right. This was supposedly going to effect proper torque of wall switches and receptacles terminations, not just circuit breaker terminals or motor controller terminals.

Wait, now all connections must be torqued via torque indicator?

 

[GoldDigger]

Wait, now all connections must be torqued via torque indicator?

Not quite. An adjustable torque limiter will also do.

 

[kwired]

Wait, now all connections must be torqued via torque indicator?

I don't have exact wording, but yes from what I understand we will be much closer to that anyway, how enforcement will work IDK.

 

[JFletcher]

Believe it or not the only code compliant method is to use the tool the manufacturer of the crimp specifies.

I know. The point I was attempting to illustrate is that other tools can work, but the correct tools will save time and aggravation. I tried ONCE to terminate a coax compression fitting w/o my tool.. wound up using two pairs of channel-locks, as a test. It worked but was a pita. Spent an hour looking for the right tool so I'd never have to do it again that way.

If I had a dollar for every coax crimp fitting I have seen installed w/o a hex crimp tool (of any mfg), I could have retired a millionaire ten years ago. Ok, maybe not quite literally a millionaire. I do know that when the cable co sees that garbage, they cut it off and reterminate with a compression fitting. With the correct tool.

"I need to get [tool X] to terminate these PPC EX6 coax fittings!", said no one ever.