Pull Damage to Coax?

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Just Use Type-F and BNC Adapters

Just Use Type-F and BNC Adapters

So, a little update: I've gone through almost 70 Ideal 89-048 connectors to try and do what should've taken 32.

I took an inoperable crimped connector and cut it open. I found that if the coaxial is stripped 1/4" off the center conductor and 1/4" off the braid, when you push it into the connector the coaxial insulation reaches the stop inside the connector and the center conductor is barely making contact with anything!

I'm not sure what the heck Ideal was thinking, because those are the stripping recommendations on the package, but it's almost physically impossible for them to work that way! :mad:

I changed the strip lengths to about 3/8" and 3/8" and I've gotten slightly better success, maybe at about 75-85% work the first time out, but I'll tell you what: I am all done with Ideal compression connectors.

Not for the life of me will I ever use these again, and I hope someone reads this and maybe saves themselves the hassle. The next project I'm gonna go with the simple type-F crimps with the adapters.

Thanks for the help you guys gave me, and thanks for tolerating the rant.

-John
 
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Sierrasparky said:
Could the 300 legnth run be a issue.
What kind of connectors did you use?
Make sure you cutter cleanly cuts the the dilectric and does not damage the conductor. Make sure there are no stray braid wires.
Make sure the connector inside shoulder is flush with the Dilectric.Tight bends and kinks have been known to degrade signal.
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Cable Type*Maximum Distance
RG59/U*750 ft.
RG6/U*1,000 ft.
RG11/U*1,500 ft.
 
big john said:
I'm not sure what the heck Ideal was thinking, because those are the stripping recommendations on the package, but it's almost physically impossible for them to work that way! :mad:
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I rarely strip per instructions, but how eyeballing the connector tells me, especially if I had trouble doing it their way.

I'd rather strip the center wire the length of the pin, and let the pressure push it back into the dielectric if it needs to.
 
Ideal seldom has useful instructions available for any of it's co-ax tools. I think that for the most part they just re-package other manufacturers tools.
 
This is why I have always said to stay away from all but the traditional manufacturers of coax fittings and tools. It seems many electrical manufacturers have been cashing in on selling this stuff to the electrical industry because they have name recognition. Most times the quality is just not there like it is with their regular electrical lines. So don't think because it has a name on it that you have known for years that it is any good.

-Hal
 
It's been fun following this topic. In no particular order:

* make sure that the connectors you have are for the exact coax you have. Not all "RG-6" is created equa (some people use that as a generic name, not a real spec); you need a close match for the diameters. I prefer Amp or Amphenol connectors. I've also used the ones that Miles-Tek sells, and usually avoid King brand.

* use crimp-on center pins. More reliable IMHO.

* get a good stripper, I like the Pallidin ones and use the correct blade cardtridge for the connector. Replace the blades every once and while.

* use the strip dimensions as per the connector spec, "about 1/4" is often wrong. The package should have the numbers. Sometimes it'll be like 0.250 for the center and 0.365 for the jacket.

* Get a crimper with the correct dies for the coax you're using. Again, different versions of RG-6 can have slightly different diameters. They're usually OK, but some specialty products are just enough different. (For instance, AT&T 734a "digital" coax. Great stuff, very low loss, looks sort of like RG-6. Isn't at all.)

In almost 30 years of doing this stuff, with the correct parts/tools, I have maybe 1 in 100 or better that won't pass a TDR test. (In the way of contexts, I've been doing these for networks and TV studios, not home cable-tv installations. Your mileage may vary.)

BTW, one of the biggest errors is using 50 ohm connectors on 75 ohm coax. They'll fit, sort of, but usually won't pass a test.
 
zbang said:
BTW, one of the biggest errors is using 50 ohm connectors on 75 ohm coax. They'll fit, sort of, but usually won't pass a test.
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Wow. So good to see someone actually bring that up. One of the differences is the pin size, which can cause grief if the mating connector is the other impedance.
 
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