PVC Remodel Box Variant

T

TwistLock

Senior Member
Location
California
Occupation
Electrician
The plastic toggle ears on a blue Carlon PVC old work / remodel box broke. Both. Never happened before, I don’t over tighten. Both just cracked around where the sheet metal screw threads through ears to draw the plastic tab to the wall. This occurred after being set in place a week. Plug, with box attached, pulled right out of wall on client.
My trust is completely gone for these boxes.
In the past I have seen grey PVC remodel boxes with ‘metal’ ears / toggles that the sheet metal screw threads through (now I understand why). Searched everywhere online but don’t remember brand nor can I find any reference to them even though I have seen them occasionally within the past two years. Did I hallucinate?
 
TwistLock said:
The plastic toggle ears on a blue Carlon PVC old work / remodel box broke. Both. Never happened before, I don’t over tighten. Both just cracked around where the sheet metal screw threads through ears to draw the plastic tab to the wall. This occurred after being set in place a week. Plug, with box attached, pulled right out of wall on client.
My trust is completely gone for these boxes.
In the past I have seen grey PVC remodel boxes with ‘metal’ ears / toggles that the sheet metal screw threads through (now I understand why). Searched everywhere online but don’t remember brand nor can I find any reference to them even though I have seen them occasionally within the past two years. Did I hallucinate?
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Possibly a defective run of product.

I have never had an issue with Carlon . Use both round and rectangular boxes daily.

One thing I always do before installing is to run the screw once through the tab just to ensure it doesn’t bind up in the “slide” once it’s in the wall or ceiling.
 
Friends don't let friends buy Carlon boxes. Mostly junk that I would not use even if it was free.

The few exceptions:

Adjustable boxes, while they could use some improvements they are the best of the available adjustable boxes. Carlon actually had nothing to do with the design. A startup designed and was selling them before getting gobbled up by Carlon/T&B/ABB.

The 4/0 bars, with the heavier bar. B620KG.

The single and 2 gang retro boxes. B125 and B249
 
I don't like most of the blue Carlons. I've seen that too, with the toggle breaking off. Also seen the 6-32 threads get brittle and break out when replacing a switch or receptacle. A major pain to fix, sometimes have to replace box. Had to do this in my own house. Fortunately was when I was already having patching & painting done. I cut out the wall enough to put in a gray nail up box.
 
I like these for 'old work', other than the drywall screws they come with, ( I'd prefer a #2 Robertson ) a few brands make them,
you'd need to be on a stud or add some blocking:
1771055444010.png
 
We just had to replace a Carlon light box that started to crumble like a cracker. The light fixture fell out of the ceiling when the owner was changing a bulb. I chocked it up to a bad batch at the factory.

Other than one off issues I haven't really had ongoing complaints. I typically opt for the SuperBlue versions (BH234R, BH118R). Whenever possible I use a stud mounted box for receptacles since they see more abuse. I'm less concerned about switch boxes and don't mind if they're drywall mounted.



Rob G
Seattle
 
marmathsen said:
We just had to replace a Carlon light box ... light fixture fell out of the ceiling
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Years ago I had an inspector tell me that these are not even listed for fixture support in a ceiling, they can be only used as outlets for smoke detectors and the like, and if I recall correctly they can be used in a wall to support a luminaire of up to somthing like 5 pounds, I have not looked recently to verify that is still the case perhaps with modern plastic that changed.
1771099459956.png
 
This is an old Q&A from Carlon.

What is the weight limit for your old work round box #B618R if you are
hanging a light fixture from the ceiling.
The B618R is a round old work outlet box and is not listed for fixture support in
the ceiling. Only approved ceiling boxes are allowed to support fixtures in the
ceiling. These boxes will be permitted to support a minimum weight of 50
pounds. The B618R can be used in the ceiling as a junction box. Do not hang a
fixture from it since it relies on the strength of the ceiling itself.

I believe the current catalog shows they are only listed for supporting wall fixtures (5-6 lbs).
 
Picked up an open case of S118W (18cu in) yesterday and ordered some S122W (22cu in) as well. They come S116W / S118W / S122W.
Looks like inserting NM cable will be more difficult, but I can't ever have this happen again - clients just won't understand.
I agree it could have been a production error, however once bitten.
Not yet sold on the 6/32 metal clip for quick push insert (if that's what it's for) (didn't push in easy for me = good) but it held well when I cranked a device screw tight to test.

Comparison below to Carlon BH118R (18cu in) vs Pass&Seymour Legrand / Slater S118W (18cu in)
Slater 1.jpgSlater 2.jpg
 
nizak said:
One thing I always do before installing is to run the screw once through the tab just to ensure it doesn’t bind up in the “slide” once it’s in the wall or ceiling.
Click to expand...
electrofelon said:
Yeah definitely pregame those wings by running 'em in and out a few times. Wish they would tap them, along with the device mounting screws
Click to expand...
I learned a long time ago to run the screws in/out a few times, or at least once. I've had the screw not start in right and I striped the phillips slot out of the screw. Never had that problem again after I started running them in/out.
I don't know if Slater has that problem, but i pre-run the screws on them too.
 
electrofelon said:
Yeah definitely pregame those wings by running 'em in and out a few times. Wish they would tap them, along with the device mounting screws 🤬
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Isn't that the truth. Even the new metal boxes you have to fight all the screws. I carry around taps and chuck them in my drill. Takes less time to tap them yourself then fight them all the time. I recently took out some older meta boxes Installed in the 60s and the screws ran in and out with no issues, the boxes just were not large enough. Panel screws and ground screws the same thing. I tried a few Cantex, (Canex?) boxes as Lowes carries them and I thought they were junk. Nothing worse than doing a fixture on a plastic box overhead and fighting with the screws. I have trouble with overhead stuff due to disk issues anyhow
 
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