Quality outdoor LED security lighting?

fastline

Senior Member
Location
midwest usa
Occupation
Engineer
Curious what you guys are having success with? We have to do several LED security floods and I'm still trying to find some longer throw spot type lights as well. I know we have been bit in the past with lights that either don't honor their advertised ratings, or shyt the bed way early. Looking for decent stuff.
 

delaware74b

Member
Location
Delaware, USA
For motion lights, I use only the RAB Stealth STL360-based motion lights. You can get them from amazon bundled with their 150-watt (equal) LED PAR38 lamps. About $215 right now, but these are not the cheapo $40 units that die in 6 months or give you issues like false-tripping every time a leaf falls.
I have installed many of these units over the past 20 years and have had only 3 units that dies early in life. All the remaining units have out-lasted anything else I have seen on the market.
 

curt swartz

Electrical Contractor - San Jose, CA
Location
San Jose, CA
Occupation
Electrical Contractor
For motion lights, I use only the RAB Stealth STL360-based motion lights. You can get them from amazon bundled with their 150-watt (equal) LED PAR38 lamps. About $215 right now, but these are not the cheapo $40 units that die in 6 months or give you issues like false-tripping every time a leaf falls.
I have installed many of these units over the past 20 years and have had only 3 units that dies early in life. All the remaining units have out-lasted anything else I have seen on the market.
I do recommend RAB products but if purchased from Amazon RAB will not honor the warranty.
 

infinity

Moderator
Staff member
Location
New Jersey
Occupation
Journeyman Electrician
I agree with using RAB but when compared to cheap Chinese brands they're very expensive. I've used the cheapo Chinese motion lights on my driveway and it still works after 5.5 years.
 

tom baker

First Chief Moderator & NEC Expert
Staff member
Location
Bremerton, Washington
Occupation
Master Electrician
I was using rab motion sensors with par lamp holders and led floods or soots. Now motion sensors have sealed led lamps. I replaced all my par setups with Ring camera lights, they work great. Not sure what rab has now
 

fastline

Senior Member
Location
midwest usa
Occupation
Engineer
I was going to ask about photo sensors. It appears many RABs don't have them onboard? Common failure and easier to replace as external? When possible, I try to install them under a soffit or something so no subjected to direct light. Seem to live a long life that way.

Is RAB really the only game in town? Gotta admit, they must be running the good chips to hit their advertised lumen/watt numbers! I'm not yet sure which mount will be best for us. Have some going on wood utility poles, some going onto corrugated steel buildings. I've never found a perfect way to mount to a steel building.
 

delaware74b

Member
Location
Delaware, USA
The quick way to mount a motion light or wall sconce on a metal pole building is to use an Arlington 8161 mounting block. It fits between the corrugations that are 9" on center. Be sure to run the mounting screws into the purlins.
 

fastline

Senior Member
Location
midwest usa
Occupation
Engineer
The quick way to mount a motion light or wall sconce on a metal pole building is to use an Arlington 8161 mounting block. It fits between the corrugations that are 9" on center. Be sure to run the mounting screws into the purlins.
maybe you could show the mounting of that device? Seems there are many options in which even their vids are vague. Are you talking about the 90* integral bracket? I'm also trying to look at the wiring coming out as well as mounting. I know with some, I've just resorted to a bulkhead Oring fitting in the metal building to seal the wires. Very far from ideal though. I've also toyed with the idea of a liquid tite adapter locked onto a building but the labor for that seems pretty intense.!
 

delaware74b

Member
Location
Delaware, USA
I drill a 7/8" hole through the sheet metal siding behind the knockout I'm using. Don't use the knockout in the center as it helps to keep the fixture mounting screw from hitting your feeds (romex). I usually downsize the hols that go through the 2x4 purlin to 5/8 or 3/4". I fill the hole for the feeds with 30-minute rain-ready silicone and fill from inside the structure. Run small bead silicone around sides and top of block.

Link to YT for installation. The video is for standard 1/2" lap installation but is the same method for dutch lap and flat wall surfaces.

Siding Block Installation
 
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