Question on NM cable entering a box

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Replacement

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I was told that there was a code that states that NM cable can not enter a boxes knock out that is right next to the stud. Then then went on to say that if you have too many wires that you will have to loop it into the bottom knockout away from the stud. The person who told me could not say what code article it was. Most of my work has been in commercial locations and I have not heard of this before. Can someone tell me what code article it is so I may review it?

TIA
 
Replacement said:
I was told that there was a code that states that NM cable can not enter a boxes knock out that is right next to the stud. Then then went on to say that if you have too many wires that you will have to loop it into the bottom knockout away from the stud. The person who told me could not say what code article it was. Most of my work has been in commercial locations and I have not heard of this before. Can someone tell me what code article it is so I may review it?

TIA
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What they are saying is your wire would likely be within the 1 1/4 inches of the 2x4 on the back side.I never had an inspector pull this one but he could.
 
well there is a code for keeping the romex 1.25 inches from the edge of the stud but for going into the closest knockout that is right next to the stud, as long the romex is 1.25" from the edge and supported 12 inches and there is at least .25" of sheathing inside the box, it's legal to enter the knockout closest to the stud.
 
cloudymacleod said:
well there is a code for keeping the romex 1.25 inches from the edge of the stud but for going into the closest knockout that is right next to the stud, as long the romex is 1.25" from the edge and supported 12 inches and there is at least .25" of sheathing inside the box, it's legal to enter the knockout closest to the stud.
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But some of the boxes are so deep that the back of the box is less than 1.25" from the back side of the stud. Therefore the cable is closer than 1.25" from the back edge of the stud.
 
cloudymacleod said:
well there is a code for keeping the romex 1.25 inches from the edge of the stud but for going into the closest knockout that is right next to the stud, as long the romex is 1.25" from the edge and supported 12 inches and there is at least .25" of sheathing inside the box, it's legal to enter the knockout closest to the stud.
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It has to be supported at 8 inches if there is no clamp at the box...
 
(D) Cables and Raceways Parallel to Framing Members and Furring Strips. In both exposed and concealed locations, where a cable- or raceway-type wiring method is installed parallel to framing members, such as joists, rafters, or studs, or is installed parallel to furring strips, the cable or raceway shall be installed and supported so that the nearest outside surface of the cable or raceway is not less than 32 mm (1? in.) from the nearest edge of the framing member or furring strips where nails or screws are likely to penetrate. Where this distance cannot be maintained, the cable or raceway shall be protected from penetration by nails or screws by a steel plate, sleeve, or equivalent at least 1.6 mm ( in.) thick.

The way its written you would think you couldn't use the inside K.O.s ,although they are listed for that and in 25+years in the trades I have not once been called on it, so go ahead and walk on the wild side, put a nm cable in the inside hole, live dangerously. :cool:
 
acrwc10 said:
(D) Cables and Raceways Parallel to Framing Members and Furring Strips. In both exposed and concealed locations, where a cable- or raceway-type wiring method is installed parallel to framing members, such as joists, rafters, or studs, or is installed parallel to furring strips, the cable or raceway shall be installed and supported so that the nearest outside surface of the cable or raceway is not less than 32 mm (1? in.) from the nearest edge of the framing member or furring strips where nails or screws are likely to penetrate. Where this distance cannot be maintained, the cable or raceway shall be protected from penetration by nails or screws by a steel plate, sleeve, or equivalent at least 1.6 mm ( in.) thick.

The way its written you would think you couldn't use the inside K.O.s ,although they are listed for that and in 25+years in the trades I have not once been called on it, so go ahead and walk on the wild side, put a nm cable in the inside hole, live dangerously. :cool:
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Do you know when that article first came to the code?

I did and my boss chewed me out :mad: . He was kind of joking but it me mad either way.
 
Replacement said:
Do you know when that article first came to the code?

I did and my boss chewed me out :mad: . He was kind of joking but it me mad either way.
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Dont let it upset you.Most here have likely been doing the same thing.The inspector simply desided to pick up on this.Chances are high he will be taging hundreds in next few weeks.He is right.Fast fix is nail plates and simply stop doing it.I have never had a problem with this but with the quaility of drywall hangers today it might happen.
 
NM

NM

Here in Mass. we ammended the 1.25" to .25" and shall be secured so that the nearest outside surface of the framing memeber or furring strip where nails or screws are likely to penetrate.
 
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Replacement said:
Do you know when that article first came to the code?
QUOTE]

Not a quiz, it's Friday, no quizzing on Fridays or Mondays. The times I have had wires nailed (or screwed) it has mostly been from the outside of the house in, it seems most of the GC's in this area want the house wired before it has siding on, or sometimes before roofing. Doesn't bother me much but I do have to go back and check every outside wall before they insullate. If a wire is hit they pay, if they know it or not. impatients has a price on it.
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stickboy1375 said:
RX is indoor wire only. If you wire before the house is weathertight IMO that is a problem....
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In Florida we are lucky if the roof is even dried in.And if its summer time we hope the windows come after we rough it in.Before gfci and afci just how many neutrals got nails in them and never got caught?
 
Jim W in Tampa said:
In Florida we are lucky if the roof is even dried in.And if its summer time we hope the windows come after we rough it in.Before gfci and afci just how many neutrals got nails in them and never got caught?
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I agree on the missed penetrations. I had a job where the roof was on windows in but clapboard siding wasn't, and needless to say they didn't always hit the stud.

Tom

Took me a while to find the clipped wire after the afci wouldn't work.

BTW I believe in MA it is .75" not .25" as previously stated.
 
Davis9 said:
I agree on the missed penetrations. I had a job where the roof was on windows in but clapboard siding wasn't, and needless to say they didn't always hit the stud.

Tom

Took me a while to find the clipped wire after the afci wouldn't work.

BTW I believe in MA it is .75" not .25" as previously stated.
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How does .75 or .25 help with a drywall screw ?
 
stickboy1375 said:
Pretty good! Now can you define temporary? I've been on jobs for 5 years... is that too long? just my 2 cents! :)
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Unless you're still there, even 5-year jobs are eventually temporary.
 
infinity said:
But some of the boxes are so deep that the back of the box is less than 1.25" from the back side of the stud. Therefore the cable is closer than 1.25" from the back edge of the stud.
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No joke. I'm grateful for the extra finger-poking space, but the backs of the boxes practically touch the other wall.
 
Jim W in Tampa said:
How does .75 or .25 help with a drywall screw ?
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Not sure, but the MA Amendments to the NEC allows .75" instead of 1.25".

Tom


Edited: Sheetrock brand drywall specifies 1.25" bugle type screws to attach to stud. IMO most drywall(not all) is .5" so .75" clearance is close.
 
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