electricmanscott
Senior Member
- Location
- Boston, MA
What "A" word do you think he was talking about here?
Asparagus?
In my defense the original post is very difficult to read. Hint: SHIFT KEY
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What "A" word do you think he was talking about here?
as other people have stated you will not have good luck trying to cut in between the wires of ceiling heat. here in oregon there is lot of old homes with ceiling heat. what I have found works best is to elimenate the ceiling heat altogether but reuse the ckt and tstat to feed a new heater. if Access is an issue in the room the easiest and simplest soulution is to install a cadet C series heater or for a little more money a pick a watt heater. the pick a watts are a quieter than the c series but either works just fine. Install it in the same stud bay as the tstat,as long as there is a full stud bay there this one of the easiest remodel projects going when you drop out of the stat with your feed you will be fishing it into a 8"x10" hole and the heater can screws right on to the stud. As far as power is concerned the 750 watt will be fine for a room that size in California and it only draws 3.1 amps (240 volt) but if needed a 1500 watt will fit in the same size rough in can.
I would not want to have a fan forced heater in a living space other than maybe a bathroom or kitchen. The noise would be very annoying.
if the home does not have a furnace it is by far the most common type of heating you run into out here. the noise is not that bad on the standartd c series, but if you pay for the more expensive style they have a squirrel cage motor in them and you can not hear them at all while they are running.... at least i can't after years of working with power tools
How often does the heat get used in your area?
It gets in the 40's here in the winter at night. Remember, it is in the 70's during the day so a 30 degree shift in climate at night is quite chilly
to us.
How often does the heat get used in your area?
Here's a question.. if, hypothetically, the cans managed to go in just fine, would you have to take in to consideration the increased ambient temperature that would likely be encountered in the ceiling space for whatever wire ampacity you fed the cans with?
could you use PAR20 cans, carefully chip out enough plaster to be able to push the cables apart enough to make a gap for the can, fix the plaster, then get the entire ceiling skimmed when youre done?
Sissies. :roll:
That would be a violation - manufacturers spec 6" around any cans or boxes.
I seriously doubt there would be enough wire to push out that far.