range outlet

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journeyman0217

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philadelphia,pa
just a general question on what you other electrical contractors do for a 50amp range outlet. Typically I use surface mount receptacle but they are a pain getting number sixes terminated. I am doing a kitchen reno but the sheetrock is staying up. I was debating on doing another surface mount receptacle or oldworking a deep 2g box?? Do you guys do anything different. I didnt like the tension that gets put on the cord when your pushing the range into place. Am I just over thinking this...:?
 
I never had too much trouble with #6 in the surface range receptacle but the ones we use are set so that the terminals open up so you can just lay the wire in.

BTW, in most cases, you only need a #8
 
journeyman0217 said:
just a general question on what you other electrical contractors do for a 50amp range outlet. Typically I use surface mount receptacle but they are a pain getting number sixes terminated. I am doing a kitchen reno but the sheetrock is staying up. I was debating on doing another surface mount receptacle or oldworking a deep 2g box?? Do you guys do anything different. I didnt like the tension that gets put on the cord when your pushing the range into place. Am I just over thinking this...:?
Click to expand...
Simple solution to that problem I bolded for most ranges - place receptacle either on the floor or as low as possible on the wall behind the range, then slide range into place, remove bottom drawer and reach under to plug it in.
 
Dennis Alwon said:
They do make 6' cords, I believe
Click to expand...
Then you might plug it in before sliding the range back, but might still have to pull the bottom drawer and help arrange the cord under/behind as you push it back in or it may just bunch up where you don't want it to.
 
Many ranges do not have bottom drawers and I seldom have found it difficult to push the unit back with a rubber cord
 
The NEC requires the receptacle to be accessible by removing the drawer when used as a disconnecting means. {422.33(B)}
 
infinity said:
The NEC requires the receptacle to be accessible by removing the drawer when used as a disconnecting means. {422.33(B)}
Click to expand...

So what do you do when the range has no bottom drawer?

422.31 Disconnection of Permanently
Connected Appliances

(B) Appliances Rated over 300 Volt-Amperes. For permanently
connected appliances rated over 300 volt-amperes,
the branch-circuit switch or circuit breaker shall be permitted
to serve as the disconnecting means where the switch or
circuit breaker is within sight from the appliance or is capable
of being locked in the open position. The provision for
locking or adding a lock to the disconnecting means shall be
installed on or at the switch or circuit breaker used as the
disconnecting means and shall remain in place with or without
the lock installed.

Section 422.31(B) requires a special locking device for service
and maintenance personnel. A device that is attached to
the circuit breaker handle by a set screw is not an acceptable
means to serve as a safe method of locking the device in the
“off” position. The device must have provisions for placement
of a lock on it to secure the device in the “off” position.
The lockout device must be part of the disconnect assembly
and must remain in place after the padlock is removed,
whether it is a fused disconnect switch, a single circuit
breaker, or a circuit breaker in a panelboard. See 422.33(B)
for electric ranges.

Edited because I posted by mistake while I was researching

-Hal
 
Last edited:
Dennis Alwon said:
Many ranges do not have bottom drawers and I seldom have found it difficult to push the unit back with a rubber cord
Click to expand...
They aren't popular around here, though I may have seen some that don't, just can't recall any at the moment. Does conflict a little with:

infinity said:
The NEC requires the receptacle to be accessible by removing the drawer when used as a disconnecting means. {422.33(B)}
Click to expand...
but if no drawer then I do agree with:

infinity said:
I guess that you'll need another form of disconnect like a breaker lockout or have the branch circuit breaker within sight.
Click to expand...
 
kwired said:
Simple solution to that problem I bolded for most ranges - place receptacle either on the floor or as low as possible on the wall behind the range, then slide range into place, remove bottom drawer and reach under to plug it in.
Click to expand...
Many ranges have a section that is roughly eight inches from the floor, and centered on the wall, if your box is within ten inches of that center mark and under or centered on the eight inches, the range slides in right over the plug no problems at all... just saying...
dishwashers and under cabinet clothes washers, those usually need the plugs up high and to the right as you look in, the drains and water usually on the left when you look in, or on the right looking at the back of the machines..lol...
 
hbiss said:
So what do you do when the range has no bottom drawer?

422.31 Disconnection of Permanently
Connected Appliances

(B) Appliances Rated over 300 Volt-Amperes. For permanently
connected appliances rated over 300 volt-amperes,
the branch-circuit switch or circuit breaker shall be permitted
to serve as the disconnecting means where the switch or
circuit breaker is within sight from the appliance or is capable
of being locked in the open position. The provision for
locking or adding a lock to the disconnecting means shall be
installed on or at the switch or circuit breaker used as the
disconnecting means and shall remain in place with or without
the lock installed.

Section 422.31(B) requires a special locking device for service
and maintenance personnel. A device that is attached to
the circuit breaker handle by a set screw is not an acceptable
means to serve as a safe method of locking the device in the
“off” position. The device must have provisions for placement
of a lock on it to secure the device in the “off” position.
The lockout device must be part of the disconnect assembly
and must remain in place after the padlock is removed,
whether it is a fused disconnect switch, a single circuit
breaker, or a circuit breaker in a panelboard. See 422.33(B)
for electric ranges.

Edited because I posted by mistake while I was researching

-Hal
Click to expand...
just wondering but, aren’t most ranges 240 volts?
 
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