Alwayslearningelec
Senior Member
- Location
- NJ
- Occupation
- Estimator
Recept. & Relay Panels
- Thread starter Alwayslearningelec
- Start date
- Status
- Location
- San Francisco Bay Area, CA, USA
- Occupation
- Electrical Engineer
RIB relays most likely.
www.functionaldevices.com
RIB® Relays - Functional Devices, Inc.
Functional Devices, Inc. manufactures RIB® Relays Building Automation products in the USA. Enclosed, NEMA 4/4x Enclosures, Track Mount, & DIN Mount.
www.functionaldevices.com
hillbilly1
Senior Member
- Location
- North Georgia mountains
- Occupation
- Owner/electrical contractor
Could be a number of different systems, as mentioned RIB, Sensorswitch, GE and many others make such systems. Should be a note of acceptable manufactures or a specific system requirements in the prints.
Alwayslearningelec
Senior Member
- Location
- NJ
- Occupation
- Estimator
Thank you. The wiring is what Im conerned with. So if I have s duplex and one of outlets is normal and the other is relay controlled. would it still be just one circuit/cable( 12/2 mc in my case) back to the panel and relay panel or I'd need an extra hot? I know( or assume) whatever the cable/# of conductors is it would have to be splice as it would land on a circuit breaker and also the relay.
- Location
- New Jersey
- Occupation
- Journeyman Electrician
Given the complexity of the spec I would assume that they'll be using some type of lighting control system, Lutron, Acuity, etc. You'll need information from an electrical drawing to answer your question
drktmplr12
Senior Member
- Location
- South Florida
- Occupation
- Electrical Engineer
its a shame they don't give a basis of design mfr and model/series/platform. they basically kicked the can to the electrician/vendor to figure it out. you would hope for a typical riser for a controlled receptacle and lighting circuit, which might vary from MFR to MFR.
too much to ask when it is a developer paying an EE for designing a commercial building. developers are notoriously cheap.
too much to ask when it is a developer paying an EE for designing a commercial building. developers are notoriously cheap.
brantmacga
Señor Member
- Location
- Georgia
- Occupation
- Former Child
I have a lot of experience w/ Greengate controls, a decent amount of experience w/ Wattstopper. Both have products to meet this spec. It’s not that complicated, so don’t let it intimidate you.
For room controls, you have two options; in-wall sensor/dimmer, or in-ceiling sensors w/ in-wall dimmer. For very small office space, like 50 sq/ft and less, I’ll typically use in-wall sensor dimmer. They are 120v powered w/ 0-10v dimming, and have built-in daylight harvesting, so they’ll adjust the brightness level based on how much natural light is in the room. See here:
www.cooperlighting.com
For larger office spaces, I’ll use in-ceiling sensors & power-packs w/ in-wall dimmers. These in-wall switches are momentary, and can be powered w/ 120v, but i prefer to run a 4-conductor CL2 cable and let the PP’s power them w/ 24v. Very easy an inexpensive.
Momentary 0-10v dimmer - https://www.cooperlighting.com/glob...entary-wallswitch-0-10v-slide-dimmer-120-277v
Ceiling Occ Sensor (also has daylight harvesting capability): https://www.cooperlighting.com/glob...-dt-2000-mv-dual-tech-ceiling-sensor-120-347v
Ceiling Vacancy Sensor - https://www.cooperlighting.com/glob...c-vac-u-ultrasonic-ceiling-sensor-low-voltage
Power Pack; you can wire this as auto-on w/ manual off, or manual on w/ auto-off (can also be used for plug-load control of your receptacles): https://www.cooperlighting.com/global/brands/greengate/959889/sp20-rd4-heavy-duty-switchpack
If you don’t need dimming in a space, you can use a momentary switch to trigger the PP; you would also just run a 2/c or 4/c cable down from the PP to this switch; https://www.cooperlighting.com/global/brands/greengate/896591/gmds-momentary-decorator-switch
And for all of the common areas, here is the LiteKeeper panel with the built-in astronomical time-clock and 20A relays. https://www.cooperlighting.com/global/brands/greengate/896241/lk8-litekeeper
There are a couple of local switching options with this LiteKeeper panel. They offer a digital push-button scene switch with engraved buttons, or you can just use a momentary switch. For the local dimming as required in your spec, I’d use the WBSD-010M dimmer, and connect the momentary button to the inputs in the LiteKeeper panel. For local occ sensors paired with the LiteKeeper, you would use the isolation contacts in the SP20-RD4 or SP20-MV (depending on what your needs are) and connect those to the switch inputs at the LiteKeeper panel. You need 120v local to power the SP20.
Whatever vendor bid the job should be able to provide you w/ a layout & BOM. Depending on the size of the building, you may be better off w/ wireless room controls instead of a central control panel.
For room controls, you have two options; in-wall sensor/dimmer, or in-ceiling sensors w/ in-wall dimmer. For very small office space, like 50 sq/ft and less, I’ll typically use in-wall sensor dimmer. They are 120v powered w/ 0-10v dimming, and have built-in daylight harvesting, so they’ll adjust the brightness level based on how much natural light is in the room. See here:
OSW/VSW-D-010 - Dual Tech 0-10V Sensor Dimmer 120/277V | Cooper Lighting Solutions
Greengate allows control of emergency lighting by any Connected lighting system or integrated sensor
For larger office spaces, I’ll use in-ceiling sensors & power-packs w/ in-wall dimmers. These in-wall switches are momentary, and can be powered w/ 120v, but i prefer to run a 4-conductor CL2 cable and let the PP’s power them w/ 24v. Very easy an inexpensive.
Momentary 0-10v dimmer - https://www.cooperlighting.com/glob...entary-wallswitch-0-10v-slide-dimmer-120-277v
Ceiling Occ Sensor (also has daylight harvesting capability): https://www.cooperlighting.com/glob...-dt-2000-mv-dual-tech-ceiling-sensor-120-347v
Ceiling Vacancy Sensor - https://www.cooperlighting.com/glob...c-vac-u-ultrasonic-ceiling-sensor-low-voltage
Power Pack; you can wire this as auto-on w/ manual off, or manual on w/ auto-off (can also be used for plug-load control of your receptacles): https://www.cooperlighting.com/global/brands/greengate/959889/sp20-rd4-heavy-duty-switchpack
If you don’t need dimming in a space, you can use a momentary switch to trigger the PP; you would also just run a 2/c or 4/c cable down from the PP to this switch; https://www.cooperlighting.com/global/brands/greengate/896591/gmds-momentary-decorator-switch
And for all of the common areas, here is the LiteKeeper panel with the built-in astronomical time-clock and 20A relays. https://www.cooperlighting.com/global/brands/greengate/896241/lk8-litekeeper
There are a couple of local switching options with this LiteKeeper panel. They offer a digital push-button scene switch with engraved buttons, or you can just use a momentary switch. For the local dimming as required in your spec, I’d use the WBSD-010M dimmer, and connect the momentary button to the inputs in the LiteKeeper panel. For local occ sensors paired with the LiteKeeper, you would use the isolation contacts in the SP20-RD4 or SP20-MV (depending on what your needs are) and connect those to the switch inputs at the LiteKeeper panel. You need 120v local to power the SP20.
Whatever vendor bid the job should be able to provide you w/ a layout & BOM. Depending on the size of the building, you may be better off w/ wireless room controls instead of a central control panel.
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