- Location
- Chapel Hill, NC
- Occupation
- Retired Electrical Contractor
Hey surf more, what did you find out?
here is what i am talking about thanks to mike holt
How could you place the loose neutral at the socket in series? When I am talking about a loose neutral it is at the point of attachment to the socket.
well a loose connection is like a resistor. you can have a voltage drop across loose connections like in breakers and stuff like that. a loose neutral connection is in series with the filiment of the lamp back to its source. if theres a resistor in series you will have a voltage drop across it. how can a lower VD across the lamp cause it to go out quickly? kind of like putting 2 120v light bulbs in series. each one will be dimmer
well a loose connection is like a resistor. you can have a voltage drop across loose connections like in breakers and stuff like that. a loose neutral connection is in series with the filiment of the lamp back to its source. if theres a resistor in series you will have a voltage drop across it. how can a lower VD across the lamp cause it to go out quickly? kind of like putting 2 120v light bulbs in series. each one will be dimmer
electric, I believe you would have to have the loose connection at the SE panel or at a junction box where both phases split to have the problem you described.
i was talking about a loose neutral connection n a lamp socket. one switch one or more lights in paralell. i dont understand how a loose wire causes an incandescent lamp to burn out quicker. if im missing something please tell me.
even if you completly removed the neutral the lamp wont burn out. they used to switch the neutral in carter 3 ways.
im not talking MWBC here. a loose neutral in a MWBC will cause a higher voltage to go across the lamp depending on other loads in the circuit. a guy i was with lifted a bunch of neutrals to MWBC in an apartment and all the bulbs got really bright and blew out pretty quick. then i heard the tv pop and other lamps blow out
How would lose terminals contribute to lamp failure? :-?
I have heard this before and personally have felt it is likely a myth.
But their sizing charts are based on experience.:grin:They size the wire to the load, not to what the NEC says the load will be.:smile:
The power company knows better than anyone what the actual load of a dwelling unit it is.
sorry guys,i got caught up in the summer activitys for a couple of weeks!!!!!
i did go back to the house ...
this was a kitchen rewire for us on the rough in.
pulled all new hruns for kitcen outlets-range -dw-ext...
light circuit was tag off another light circuit that appeared to have just laundry --hallway--closet lights on it!!!!I was fliping breakers and my helper was testing stuff to see what was on or off.(MISTAKE)but when the boss sends help you must put them work!!!(MOST IMPORTANTLY TRUST THEM)
i only added 6 four inch can lights to the cicuit.
went back and found a freezer in the garage on that circuit,and the bulbs we installed 120v.
i did not want to go back so i pulled a new hr for lights and installed 130v bulbs.
no more blowing bulbs!!!thanks for input everyone!!
FWIW ... I believe it is 120 times a second.AC turns off 60 times a second.:smile: