frank_n
Senior Member
- Location
- Central NJ
I installed a bunch of 4-inch Halo H99ICT cans in a kitchen. The drywall is up, and the GC asked me to install the lamps so they will have light while they work. I installed the lamps, a temp switch, and connected the feed to the panel. When I turned on the switch, the thermal protectors flick off-on quickly then the breaker trips. These lights are on two switch legs. Individually, each switch leg does the same thing. When I took out the R20's and replaced them with a few compact fluorescents I had on the truck, everything was fine.
Before I installed these lights, I checked Halo's website and found they were capable of a 50-watt R20 with a 993W trim. However, if you look at the 993 trim page, it says to use a 30-watt R20 or a 50-watt PAR20 with a socket extender.
If the can is rated for a 50-watt lamp, why would thermal overload activate? Is it because there is no trim and the trim deflects heat?
Frank
Before I installed these lights, I checked Halo's website and found they were capable of a 50-watt R20 with a 993W trim. However, if you look at the 993 trim page, it says to use a 30-watt R20 or a 50-watt PAR20 with a socket extender.
If the can is rated for a 50-watt lamp, why would thermal overload activate? Is it because there is no trim and the trim deflects heat?
Frank