Refridgerator - seperate circuit?

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peter d said:
For $70 to 100K, I'll gladly run #12 for the refrigerator. ;)

For a 2500 sq ft McMansion, it gets #14.
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:cool:

Post #4


If your wiring expensive custom homes a dedicated 20 seems like a logical choice. :cool:

If your doing smaller homes a dedicated 15 will likely be fine. :)

And if your in the competitive world of tract housing it's gonna be on the small appliance branch circuit.
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On second thought, I think that running an empty 3/4" EMT to a 4 11/16 box is the way to go, just in case they put decide to add a walk-in cooler. :D
 
peter d said:
On second thought, I think that running an empty 3/4" EMT to a 4 11/16 box is the way to go, just in case they put decide to add a walk-in cooler. :D
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You made me laugh, that's what I did for my kitchen, any way you do it is fine, if the owner wants anything special just pull out the change orders.
Two of my customers have walk in coolers, at home, and their kitchen prep areas look like a five star commercial kitchen.
 
satcom said:
Two of my customers have walk in coolers, at home, and their kitchen prep areas look like a five star commercial kitchen.
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Say it aint so? A walk in? And to think I was joking...I have seen some serious kitchens but not that....
 
peter d said:
Say it aint so? A walk in? And to think I was joking...I have seen some serious kitchens but not that....
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Not you regular customer, they are CEO's , most homes don't have a complete workout room either, the one piece of kitchen equipment I always wanted, was a commercial meat slicer, wife said get one, but don't think it's going in the kitchen, you can put in the basement.
 
Wouldn't a walk-in have a remote condensing unit?


Maybe more appropiate...SHOULDN'T a walk-in have a remote unit so noise does not become an issue and maint. easier?
 
celtic said:
Wouldn't a walk-in have a remote condensing unit?


Maybe more appropiate...SHOULDN'T a walk-in have a remote unit so noise does not become an issue and maint. easier?
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I don't know of any that dont, do you?
 
kitchen outlets

kitchen outlets

I charge a minimum of 3000 for a kitchen and that includes a 1000 ft roll of 12/3 and a box of breakers. whatever is leftover good for me. Fridge /microwave countertop appliance/ckts garbage disposal/dishwasher lighting / gas stove with plate warmer this seems to be standard procedure by me electric stove extra ten bucks per amp .
 
mdshunk said:
I agree that a 15 amp is normally enough for most domestic 2-door refrigerator/freezer appliances. I think you're nuts, however, with your 3-4 amp citation. Might want to check into that. Most mini-fridges draw that much. :wink:
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My 36'w Kenmore energy star side by side is 6.5 fla.
 
quogueelectric said:
I charge a minimum of 3000 for a kitchen and that includes a 1000 ft roll of 12/3 and a box of breakers. whatever is leftover good for me. Fridge /microwave countertop appliance/ckts garbage disposal/dishwasher lighting / gas stove with plate warmer this seems to be standard procedure by me electric stove extra ten bucks per amp .
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Don't forget, out by you they're paying $100.00 per pound for crab salad!
 
I have installed 2-3,000 sticker's with my phone number in the houses I or my guys wired for the customers to call me if there is a problem. Every house has only 2 small appl circuits. I have never had a problem. One can run a dedicated 20 or 15A small appl circuit to the fridge. I could also, but why if I have never heard about problems with fridges not being on a dedicated circuits, except for when some people try to change the Code.

Is it "the chicken or the egg" problem because seems like the US is devided 50/50 over this archaic problem.

Am I wrong?
 
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