Refrigerator Circuit

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480sparky said:
Try installing Vikings or SubZeros. Many spec a dedicated 20a.
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Karl H said:
That's why I asked if this a -20 (Common household fridge). Almost
all Vikings and SubZeros spec a ded circuit.
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480sparky said:
I don't care what they actually draw. I care about that the spec sheet says they need. If it says it need a dedicated 20a circuit, it gets a 20a dedicated circuit.
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Karl H said:
I do the same thing if the spec sheet says,"Supply a dedicated 20 amp ckt."
That's exactly what I do even ,though it only pulls 30Ma.
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480sparky said:
Make mine well done.
Baked tater, green beans, iced tea and home-made icream, please.

[EDIT: IMAGE REMOVED BY CELTIC]
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Jim W in Tampa said:
Your all missing one major point. Your fine on rough, now on final if frig is in place and spec says 20 amp ....
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Show me....provide a link to a resi. frig that requires more than a 15A ckt.

I did the legwork last time :smile:

Until PROVEN in error, I stand by comment.
 
peter d said:
An inspector can only enforce the minimum code anyway. That means a dedicated 15 amp circuit, or a receptacle on the SABC. If either of those is in place, the inspector's job is done, whether you like it or not.
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WRONG if on final he sees frig in place that requires dedicated ,then he should red tag tag. If your gonna cheat then bring frig in after final. Who ever plugs this frig in is the liable person. As much as i usually side on wrong side of inspectors i gotta go with them on taging this.
 
Jim W in Tampa said:
WRONG if on final he sees frig in place that requires dedicated ,then he should red tag tag. If your gonna cheat then bring frig in after final. Who ever plugs this frig in is the liable person. As much as i usually side on wrong side of inspectors i gotta go with them on taging this.
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Liable for what? Plugging an appliance in? Who reads directions anyhow? :grin:
 
stickboy1375 said:
Liable for what? Plugging an appliance in? Who reads directions anyhow? :grin:
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The person pluging it in is the person to check. Do you just plug anything into anything ?
hmmmm my wife must know you. It fit so gotta work . Nope you dumb KY mountain william that ain't how it works . You can't plug in 2 number 4's Lisa.
 
Jim W in Tampa said:
Your all missing one major point. Your fine on rough, now on final if frig is in place and spec says 20 amp or even 15 amp dedicated and you dont have it you get red tag. Do any of you know what that frig takes on defrost ? Your playing a stupid game. If you get by on this and i am the inspector i will be looking at every inch of your job because you just told me you are going to bare min on everything. Think of cost to fix if your wrong. frig siting there on final says 20 dedicated. Even if your right the GC will not use you again. Are you needing that extra money that bad ? Long term your hurting yourself. If your this cheap i don't even want you near my house.
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On a rough, and your a Foreman ,and you don't read the spec's first
prior to rough-in. Your an idiot IMHO. Is that PC? No, I'm not calling YOU
an idiot Jim. Read the thread.We discussed spec's already. :D
 
To the OP before this gets real ugly. The NEC does allow the fridge
to be plugged into the SABC. If you really want to see some foolish
debating, ask if it's ok to backstab or if grounds should be up or down.
Then you will really see why Larry Fine calls this forum a "ZOO".:D:D
 
celtic said:
A while back this raged on for pages...15A or 20A....sure code says 15A - but the question was: Is 15A enough?

I personally did the research and found no refrig. for the home requiring more than 15A.

Time goes by and things may have changed in appliance world....but IMHO, you won't find a resi. frig rated for more than 15A - of course, anyone that has the time can update us all :smile:
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I also dragged myself through the pdfs of the subzero line and there was not a single model that speced larger than a 15a supply. I second this opinion in a big way.
 
If the equipment has a 15 amp cord cap, I would really doubt that the manufacturer's recommendation for a 20 amp dedicated circuit is a listing and labeling instruction...it is most likely just a recommendation.
 
Jim W in Tampa said:
WRONG if on final he sees frig in place that requires dedicated ,then he should red tag tag. If your gonna cheat then bring frig in after final. Who ever plugs this frig in is the liable person. As much as i usually side on wrong side of inspectors i gotta go with them on taging this.
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Its been my experience that the refrigerator is rarely picked out by the time we rough. Besides, if the fridge REALLY pulls 15 amps and you run a 1200 watt toaster on the circuit, will the breaker really trip in 2.5 minutes? I mean, under that logic should EVERY outlet in the house get its own circuit?? I've personally seen 2 vacuum cleaners in one house before...
 
Praedatus1 said:
Its been my experience that the refrigerator is rarely picked out by the time we rough. Besides, if the fridge REALLY pulls 15 amps and you run a 1200 watt toaster on the circuit, will the breaker really trip in 2.5 minutes? I mean, under that logic should EVERY outlet in the house get its own circuit?? I've personally seen 2 vacuum cleaners in one house before...
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Can we risk that the breaker trips ? If it trips because it was overloaded and it was not caught untill the evening when home owner gets home there just might be some food to pay for. This might work fine for years untill the wrong loads are on at same time frig is on defrost. If specs say dedicated then that is what they get. My method has always been to run a 12-3 to the frig first, then 12-2 to first SA receptacle. You lost no extra time and it cost you a few bucks extra for 12-3 than 12-2. Its up to you. $5 TODAY OR $500 LATER.
 
M. D. said:
Right ,... if you ask the testing folks they will say that they are part of the listing and labeling and they are the people who get to decide what is and what is not...110.3(b) needs work.
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Yes, the same people that tell us we have to follow all of the instructions that are provided by the manufacturer also tell us that we can use classified breakers, yet every panel comes with instructions that say you must use their brand of breakers. It is my opinion that if it is not in the White Book, it is not a 110.3(B) instruction.
There are proposals for the 2011 code that, if accepted, will make all manufacturer provided instructions 110.3(B) instructions. It will be interesting to see the panel action and the comments.
 
don_resqcapt19 said:
Yes, the same people that tell us we have to follow all of the instructions that are provided by the manufacturer also tell us that we can use classified breakers, yet every panel comes with instructions that say you must use their brand of breakers. It is my opinion that if it is not in the White Book, it is not a 110.3(B) instruction.
There are proposals for the 2011 code that, if accepted, will make all manufacturer provided instructions 110.3(B) instructions. It will be interesting to see the panel action and the comments.
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I will be VERY interested to see what the panel actions are on these proposals as well.

Chris
 
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