Removing paint for grounding.

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cowboyjwc said:
Very good Wayne.:wink: What you can't do is "dead end" the pipe. If you install the grounding electrode conductor in a metalic conduit, the conduit has to be bonded to the cabinet and the grounding electrode. Or What Wayne said may work to if you used something like a bonding bushing.
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I'm not disagreeing then nor am I now. I'm gonna repeat one more time what I said in the last post. If he was using that article to say I need a connector which more or less it does, then he should have also pushed the issue of a jumper which he did NOT. I completely understand what the article says and had I read and been as familiar with it then (TWO YEARS AGO) as I am now I would have. :roll:

All he wanted was a connector and neither the jman that told me to do it nor the inspector mentioned anything about a jumper so I let it go at that. (I was a 3rd year at the time) I let it go and didn't look it up until later I was wondering why the connector. Also the inspector didn't cite an article when he said that the pipe needs a connector because nobody questioned him.

Again the setup was pipe connected to panel, solid #6 I believe it was (might have been bigger I've slept a few times since then) through a 3/4 EMT out the wall connected to a ground clamp on the ground rod. I'm not misunderstanding anything. I'm not raising a fuss. I've read all of Article 250 many many many times since then believe, it was very prominent on my test as well. This has all gotten blown out of proportion over a simple comment.
 
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daleuger said:
I'm not disagreeing then nor am I now. I'm gonna repeat one more time what I said in the last post. If he was using that article to say I need a connector which more or less it does, then he should have also pushed the issue of a jumper which he did NOT. I completely understand what the article says and had I read and been as familiar with it then (TWO YEARS AGO) as I am now I would have. :roll:

All he wanted was a connector and neither the jman that told me to do it nor the inspector mentioned anything about a jumper so I let it go at that. (I was a 3rd year at the time) I let it go and didn't look it up until later I was wondering why the connector. Also the inspector didn't cite an article when he said that the pipe needs a connector because nobody questioned him.

Again the setup was pipe connected to panel, solid #6 I believe it was (might have been bigger I've slept a few times since then) through a 3/4 EMT out the wall connected to a ground clamp on the ground rod. I'm not misunderstanding anything. I'm not raising a fuss. I've read all of Article 250 many many many times since then believe, it was very prominent on my test as well. This has all gotten blown out of proportion over a simple comment.
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The purpose of the connector is to bond the GC to the conduit.
I believe the reason is to eliminate the "choke effect" that the metal conduit creates around the GEC.
It also should be bonded on both ends of the conduit.

Search "choke effect" on this site.

steve
 
iwire said:
Can I ask the last time you installed a factory grounding bar in a painted enclosure?
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Sometime in December, we had an emergency replacement of a 3-500 kva UPS's everyone in the company was working 6-12's and an 8 for 5 weeks, I pitched in whenever I was free, the way it has to be with a small company.

BUT I also have the remove paint policy for all employees.
 
iwire said:
Can I ask the last time you installed a factory grounding bar in a painted enclosure?
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QO loadcenters come to mind, but I've never removed the paint from them. I got nailed on this one time. I placed a lug next the factory installed lug in a 400A disconnect. The factory installed lug did not have the paint removed, nor did mine. He told me to remove the paint from the lug I added, but said he could not make me remove the paint from the factory installed lug.
 
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paul said:
QO loadcenters come to mind,
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I was thinking along the same lines and found it odd that Brian would run into a load centers like that. I imagine most of the equipment he services have galvanized enclosures or have actual grounding bus bars. :smile:
 
daleuger said:
I'm not disagreeing then nor am I now. I'm gonna repeat one more time what I said in the last post. If he was using that article to say I need a connector which more or less it does, then he should have also pushed the issue of a jumper which he did NOT. I completely understand what the article says and had I read and been as familiar with it then (TWO YEARS AGO) as I am now I would have. :roll:

All he wanted was a connector and neither the jman that told me to do it nor the inspector mentioned anything about a jumper so I let it go at that. (I was a 3rd year at the time) I let it go and didn't look it up until later I was wondering why the connector. Also the inspector didn't cite an article when he said that the pipe needs a connector because nobody questioned him.

Again the setup was pipe connected to panel, solid #6 I believe it was (might have been bigger I've slept a few times since then) through a 3/4 EMT out the wall connected to a ground clamp on the ground rod. I'm not misunderstanding anything. I'm not raising a fuss. I've read all of Article 250 many many many times since then believe, it was very prominent on my test as well. This has all gotten blown out of proportion over a simple comment.
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Then let me take a guess that he was a combo-inspector.:smile:
 
I am not saying removing paint is always necessary, but I was taught by a mechanic we called the Devil, (to his face) he was a task master and had certain rules that were strictly followed.

Remove all paint.
Make neat heads on fish tapes with no overlap of bend over.
When pulling conductors always pull over the reels.
Always set up your pulls so gravity worked with you.
NEATNESS was mandatory.




Some things stick with you and I see no harm in removing paint even if it is not required, as I noted with a drill and wire brush paint disappears.
 
I'd have to say it depends on the application.

drill a beam to install a lug, (grind the primer off for good contact)
install a lug on a transformer terminal (remove the coating for good contact)
installing an additional surface ground lug ( Remove the Paint for good contact)

But when talking about installing a factory ground bar with factory screws, i have never removed the paint.

For that matter if that were the case, one could argue that you needed to remove the neutal bar on a service panel, remove the paint behind it, reinstall the neutral bar,grind the green paint off of the green bonding screw, except for the very top of the head and then install it.

I dont think so.
 
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