Residential Grounding

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Mike01

Mike01

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MidWest
I have seen in the residential market (not much) the use of metal studs for new residencies. Does the additional of metal studs inleu of traditional wood construction require any additional bonding to the metal components of the construction? This would include metal studs / trusses, etc.
 
 
Buck Parrish said:
Check out this link, Most all the metal needs to be bonded. The studs will be bonded by touching the beams, metal boxes , etc...
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In many cases these are non load bearing, free standing walls (not connected to any additional metallic framing).

I like the box idea.
 
One metal box per seperate wall section is all that is required. Wire size according to the load that may energize the studs. Think metal box for the range if in a metal stud wall.
 
Cavie said:
One metal box per seperate wall section is all that is required. Wire size according to the load that may energize the studs.
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So a wall with no box should not need bonding, because there's nothing likely to energize it, IMO.
 
LarryFine said:
So a wall with no box should not need bonding, because there's nothing likely to energize it, IMO.
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What you don't know is the reason for this code. A drywall screw had punctured the insulation of a wire which did not cause a problem except the metal framing was now energized. Along comes the dryer installer, cut into the wall to install the dryer vent, contacts the metal framing, is grounded some how and was electrocuted. This is not a story. it did happen. I have lost the link to the story. therefore, any framing with wire running thru it will be bonded box or no box. I would think any self respecting electrician would think this should have happened a long time ago.
 
Cavie said:
What you don't know is the reason for this code. A drywall screw had punctured the insulation of a wire which did not cause a problem except the metal framing was now energized. Along comes the dryer installer, cut into the wall to install the dryer vent, contacts the metal framing, is grounded some how and was electrocuted. This is not a story. it did happen. I have lost the link to the story. therefore, any framing with wire running thru it will be bonded box or no box. I would think any self respecting electrician would think this should have happened a long time ago.
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I would bet there are a million self respecting electricians who have not thought of this...


50,000 people are killed each year in car accidents.

This poor individual was killed as a result of someone elses mistake.
There may be a billion metal frame studs installed out there... That would make this a very small percentage incident,say compared to car accidents. Yet there are many self respecting individuals who drive cars.

(see what happens when you pick on electricians who do care?)
 
I do not understand all the resistance to this safty issue that cost less then $20.00 on the average house. I've inspected many houses that it cost nothing to do because the panel was installed in a stud wall an all the walls were conected by the framing crew. No metal boxes required.
 
Now could you use self tapping screws then to fasten the box to the stud or would you need to drill and tap the holes into the stud. That would be a huge pain
 
Pierre C Belarge said:
(see what happens when you pick on electricians who do care?)
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Yeah! So, there! :cool: :)D)


Added: So, what would be a good method for bonding an isolated section of steel studding? A 1-hole lug and a nut and bolt? What size conductor? Bare okay?
 
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variation on the theme

variation on the theme

I've got a surface mount CH series A 125 amp Type 3 Raintite --the Neutral is bonded to the ground buss, I'm using it as a subpanel and need the Neutral on insulators and not connected to the ground buss, can I get a Neutral buss kit from CH that will adapt this Main to my needs?
 
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