residential voltage

[LarryFine]

. . . I need to remove the 2nd rod.

He's afraid of too much grounding?

Oh, I get it. He once heard someone say "You can't have too many ground rods."

 

[SEO]

He's afraid of too much grounding?

Oh, I get it. He once heard someone say "You can't have too many ground rods."

Larry I like your humor! :smile:

 

[hillbilly1]

I don't mind inspections if the inspector is knowledgeable, but I've had big city inspectors want a 4/0 Cu to a 5/8 ground rod, a small town POCO inspector that would not allow lights of any kind in a walk in closet, and ect. I have also run into small town and big city inspectors that were very knowledgeable and don't have the power trip attitude.

 

[DanZ]

I don't mind inspections if the inspector is knowledgeable, but I've had big city inspectors want a 4/0 Cu to a 5/8 ground rod, a small town POCO inspector that would not allow lights of any kind in a walk in closet, and ect. I have also run into small town and big city inspectors that were very knowledgeable and don't have the power trip attitude.

Did you point out the lighting requirements in closets?

 

[kid_stevens]

I wandered about that too. I solved the incandescent distance problem with inspections I use linear fluorescent only.

 

[DanZ]

I wandered about that too. I solved the incandescent distance problem with inspections I use linear fluorescent only.

What about CFLs? OR you could go really fancy, and use LEDs. Although they work better for spot lights than general lighting.

 

[hillbilly1]

This closet was 6' X 10', no clearance issues, he just did not like lights in closets, could have argued with him, but it was not worth it. I just installed a enclosed flouresent wrap after he left.

 

[LarryFine]

What about CFLs?

If they use Edison-base lampholders, it would be too easy to install an incandescent.

 

[DanZ]

If they use Edison-base lampholders, it would be too easy to install an incandescent.

True. However, I use them when I spec standard "cheapie" cans, to meet energy code requirements. If the EC misses the note, or the Tenant wants to change them when we're gone, it' snot my problem, it's on the plans! :roll: :grin:

 

[kid_stevens]

What about CFLs? OR you could go really fancy, and use LEDs. Although they work better for spot lights than general lighting.

If you use CFLs the customer can screw in incandescents and take the item backwards. So Linear make the inspector happy.

At least here only if you add circuits or change the load center a remodel does not require a permit.

 

[Besoeker]

Yep, they can buy parts, and they have a big orange store! I can't remember the name but it was a Home Depot or a good knockoff.

You're probably thinking of Homebase....:grin:
Or B&Q.
From what I've seen, they are a bit like your Lowes or Home Depot.

 

[Besoeker]

Well I think the main reason is the majority of home appliances (in the US) are 120 volt or 240 volt.

Not the other way round?
The appliances made to suit the domestic voltage(s)?

 

[kid_stevens]

The DC light bulb was out in quantity before AC was available and so the first AC Gensets were made to take over the installed base of +110 or -110 DC light bulb systems.

 

[Besoeker]

The DC light bulb was out in quantity before AC was available and so the first AC Gensets were made to take over the installed base of +110 or -110 DC light bulb systems.

A fair point and a historical context on why the supply voltage is what it is.
I was thinking in terms of current domestic appliances.
They are made to suit available domestic voltages.
You wouldn't sell many 180V fridges.

 

[LarryFine]

Not the other way round?
The appliances made to suit the domestic voltage(s)?

You missed Bob's humor.

 

[LarryFine]

The DC light bulb was out in quantity before AC was available and so the first AC Gensets were made to take over the installed base of +110 or -110 DC light bulb systems.

Years ago, I knew a teacher who swore that AC and DC incandescents would not work on the other's type of voltage.

 

[ronaldrc]

Someone once told me that the reason most switching is done on the negative leads or wires of DC powered stuff was because it didn't spark as bad, is this true?

Or should we open up another thread for that question?

 

[Besoeker]

You missed Bob's humor.

Ah, we Brits have a sense of humour that isn't always obvious.

 

[Gary Glaenzer]

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_electricity

To save on the cost of copper conductors, a three-wire distribution system was used. The three wires were at +110 volts, 0 volts and −110 volts relative potential. 100-volt lamps could be operated between either the +110 or −110 volt legs of the system and the 0-volt "neutral" conductor, which only carried the unbalanced current between the + and − sources. The resulting three-wire system used less copper wire for a given quantity of electric power transmitted, while still maintaining (relatively) low voltages. ___________________________________________

I'm finding this quote hard to digest, especially the 'less copper wire for a given quantity of electric power transmitted.'

If all loads were 110 V, wouldn't the neutral need to be the same size as the non-neutral conductors ?

Now, if they were talking 220 V loads, perhaps.

 

[coulter]

why is higher voltages not used in houses? Is it just because of safety, or is there other reasons?

Higher voltages don't have to be less safe. No good reason I know of to not use higher voltages. There are a few good reasons to use higher voltage.

Ok, there is one reason to continue with 120V - Larry hit it.

Years ago, I knew a teacher who swore that AC and DC incandescents would not work on the other's type of voltage.

Translate to: Hey, we are Americans. Everything we do is the best, just ask us. :roll: What you mean we occasionally sound like morons?