Residential- Ways to maximize profit through procedure

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Re: Residential- Ways to maximize profit through procedure

I usually rough in all home runs.Finishing one circuit at a time.Then I do my make up complete as if I were installing a switch or plug.Then I make up panel with breakers.I also heat up panel with extension cord and pigtail.Turn on all circuits and check for shorts.
No stress on rough.Makes finish easier.
 
Re: Residential- Ways to maximize profit through procedure

Why does heating up your panel with an extension cord make your trim easier? :confused:

I do all make-up at rough as well.
 
Re: Residential- Ways to maximize profit through procedure

Peter,

I picked up notching from 2 different shops in California originally back in the early 70's. One production shop wailed with lineman 9's indenting as we pulled any switch legs, travelers, and home runs. There was no stopping while cutting the cable runs at their terminating points.

Just a heavy hand at indenting the cable end would leave a visible notch code on the outer sheath. When stripping away the insulation jacket still has the same notch so there is no question to the circuit identity and no extra re-ident time needed.

Even after stripping out wires on rough-in makeup, the original indent additionally had penetrated to also notch the conductor. We would have rough-in races in identical apartment dwellings for six-packs later. We kept track of how much time it took for improved marking methods.

We parallel pigtailed prior to stowing so when the rockers & painters finished, the circuits were intact on power-up and the conductor notches were a piece of cake to follow.

George,
The system of panelboard run idents were notched in an easy sequence. For 12-2 or 12-3 the HR cables were notched | for SA1, || for SA2, ||| for Refer, ||| | for micro, ||| || for disp, V for GFCI-1, V| for -2, cw-no notch, etc.

The panel second level marking was for all 14-2 HR cabling used running to general & bedroom L+R circuits. /for L+R ckt-1, // for L+R ckt-2, no notch for FURN motor, etc. A straight | for a Switch leg & || for trav's as we pulled and cut. The romex was loaded in the switch boxes in an order from left to right.

A front door 3 gg would be automatically left top box entry for outside light sw leg, center interior foyer, and right box entry for hall or adjacent living room. Switch leg notches could not be confused regardless of being sp or 3way.

Occasionally I'll help do a home and I've improvised for AFCI idents using |\| as the secret handshake. :D Incidentally, I don't see as well as I once could, but I can still wire a switch leg in the dark..just feeling the notches. ;)

rbj, Seattle

I don't dare give a shameless plug, but the complete data is well documented in a book on NM WIRING. (Forgive me BOB.)
 
Re: Residential- Ways to maximize profit through procedure

That's a pretty cool system, gndrod.
Occasionally I'll help do a home and I've improvised for AFCI idents using |\| as the secret handshake.
Click to expand...
Secret handshake... :D
Now I know it's just to make guys who don't know the system feel left out... :D :D
 
Re: Residential- Ways to maximize profit through procedure

Originally posted by gndrod:
Peter,

Just a heavy hand at indenting the cable end would leave a visible notch code on the outer sheath. When stripping away the insulation jacket still has the same notch so there is no question to the circuit identity and no extra re-ident time needed.

Even after stripping out wires on rough-in makeup, the original indent additionally had penetrated to also notch the conductor. We would have rough-in races in identical apartment dwellings for six-packs later. We kept track of how much time it took for improved marking methods.
[/QUOTe
Am I the only one that thinks this sounds bad? Notch the insulation? Indent on the conductor? Race for beer to see who roughs faster? :eek:
Click to expand...
 
Re: Residential- Ways to maximize profit through procedure

Bless the holy water and prepare the virgins! :D

And above all: beer is good.

(Editted for the parenthesis)

[ January 09, 2005, 11:11 AM: Message edited by: georgestolz ]
 
Re: Residential- Ways to maximize profit through procedure

Here is my bad drawing of how I use that style of system. If you have a system, you don't need a sharpie, except for writing on the stud at layout. The only thing special in a switching box is the switchleg and travellers.

Editted to add: I don't club the cable like a baby seal, I crimp it with my nines, but to each his own. :D

Forgive my lack of skill...
CrimpSystem.jpg


[ January 09, 2005, 06:58 PM: Message edited by: georgestolz ]
 
Re: Residential- Ways to maximize profit through procedure

I use a system when running cables that allows me to avoid most labelling.

Switch boxes:
Power is brought into the box through the bottom KO closest to the stud. Power out exits via any other bottom KO. Switch legs exit out the top, cables come in in the relative position of the switches in the box. For simple switched loads (fixture or receptacle), the switched hot conductor gets a tight loop at the end. For three-ways, I loosely twist the travellers together, and wrap the conductor for the common tightly around the travellers at the end of the travellers.

In my area, the inspectors want to see the sheath removed at the rough stage and the grounds all made up in the boxes, and the neutrals and grounds landed at the panel. But no devices installed.

Cliff
 
Re: Residential- Ways to maximize profit through procedure

The way I use to do it was to bring both branch ckt Hot/Neutral in & out of the same hole close to the stud no matter what type of gang box it is. Switch legs, whether SP, 3W, or 4W, would exit out of the hole farthest from the stud.

In multi-gang boxes, same system. If more than 1 ckt, I would still know, because all hots are still in/out same hole close to stud. When I finished pulling all HR's & BC's-I'd strip in & make up all Grounds & Neutrals & tail out a long black wire for my "common" hot. If 2 ckt-tail out a long "common" red hot. (Boy, I hate the word "Common" in electrical terminology :( ).

If special purpose ckt for what-ever, then I use a sharpie & mark inside bottom of outlet box either with symbol or ckt # & use a romex sleeve @ panel for ID :D . May take a few extra minutes-but-I've eliminated any call backs. :D
 
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