Ring Doorbell

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Little Bill

Little Bill

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Semi-Retired Electrician
Most Ring installations are replacing an existing doorbell. All you do is remove the button and replace it with the Ring button/camera. I was checking to see how to hook one up without an existing doorbell. I found instructions for that but have some questions. The instructions said to install a transformer 8-24V, then on one of the low voltage lines you place a 50W 25 ohm resistor in line from the transformer to the Ring button. Now you can run a Ring system wireless but the button has a battery. The problem is you have to take out the battery and charge it with a USB cable. The hardwiring just keeps the battery charged without having to remove the battery. Now I know that a normal doorbell button is just a switch to allow the transformer to connect to the chimes. I'm trying to figure out how running straight to the button from the transformer allows the button to be a switch since you haven't made a switch loop, just a connection. I can only think there must be an internal switch that makes when you push the button.

Just for comparison, if you have an existing doorbell, you just connect the button as usual and not use the resistor. The resistor is just to keep from having too much current/volts from going to the battery. My question is how does the Ring button both make a switch loop for the existing doorbell chime and also be a switch for the Ring system? In the case for direct wire there is no switch loop, but with an existing chime there is a switch loop, but only for the chime. Also, how does the battery get charged if there is an existing chime? Seems it would only charge when the button is pushed.
Can someone "splain" what's going on here?
 
The resistor takes the place of a normal chime in series with the button, and prevent the Ring button press from shorting out the transformer when there is no chime.

The terminals on the Ring unit accept charging power when not pressed. Pressing it connects the terminals to ring the original chime, and activates the unit's internal transmitter.
 
The current draw while charging is low enough to not fully energize the door bell, just like the older motion sensor switches that did not use a neutral or ground to power them. The button does actually close a contact, but the battery keeps the camera powered while the voltage went to zero when the button was pushed. As Larry just posted, the resistor keeps it from being a dead short of no doorbell is connected.
 
The Ring Pro does not require the resistor.

All Ring and Nest require their "modules" be installed when connecting to a wired chime. The nest can be connected to a transformer without a chime but you still need to connect their module in the circuit. I actually have a Nest set up this way in my house. I don't know why Ring doesn't do something similar with their non Pro line to eliminate the large resistor requirement.
 
hillbilly1 said:
Just looked it up, apparently it is the screw that holds it onto the backplate.
www.theverge.com

Ring video doorbells recalled over fire concerns

There’s no risk if devices are installed correctly.
www.theverge.com www.theverge.com
Click to expand...
Yep, there are two "security" screws that prevent the unit from coming off or, I suppose, the cover as well. some people must have used longer screws instead of the ones that come with the unit. Most likely just lost or threw away the original screws, then grabbing whatever they had and used them.
 
curt swartz said:
The Ring Pro does not require the resistor.

All Ring and Nest require their "modules" be installed when connecting to a wired chime. The nest can be connected to a transformer without a chime but you still need to connect their module in the circuit. I actually have a Nest set up this way in my house. I don't know why Ring doesn't do something similar with their non Pro line to eliminate the large resistor requirement.
Click to expand...
I saw a video of one of the Ring models that had a module that went in the chime unit. Was that the Pro?
 
I have groan (pun intended) to dislike Ring doorbells.

They supply the minimal requirements with their product then require you to call the support line when it's a non-standard installation. They'll happily send out the required parts for free to make it work but you need to do it with the account holder standing there to approve the transaction.

Over the years I drawn up a cheat sheet for when I'm installing them:

A diode is needed when:
• You are working only with a Ring Video Doorbell or Ring Video Doorbell 2
• You are connecting it to a digital chime kit.

You will want to use a resistor when:
• You are working only with a Ring Video Doorbell or Ring Video Doorbell 2
• The doorbell is hardwired directly to a transformer
• The doorbell is not being used with a chime kit
https://support.ring.com/hc/en-us/a...-Voltage-Transformer-No-Pre-existing-Doorbell-
If you are looking to purchase a resistor, here are two we have tested and recommend:

You will want to use a Pro Power Kit when:
• You are working only with a Ring Video Doorbell Pro
• The doorbell is being connected to a chime kit

You will want to use a Pro Power Cable when:
• You are working only with a Ring Video Doorbell Pro
• You need to by-pass the chime kit

If you need additional support articles you can check out our support center at: support.ring.com/hc/en-us
 
I bought two doorbell cams for parents house (and to keep an eye on them). Not really a fan, but they are ok.
However, I do have the floodlight cams at my house and a vacation house. Absolutely love the picture quality and ease of use.
If I had to recommend something it wouldn’t be the doorbell camera...
I would say the floodlight cam and leave the doorbell as is.
 
I have a mixture of Nest and Ring at different locations, Nest has a better picture quality, but Ring has a better DVR plan. Both the Ring’s are Pro model Ethernet connected, the Nests are WiFi connected, but not connected to a doorbell. Don’t have the resistor on any of the five Nests, and after four years, still have had no problem with them.
 
marmathsen said:
I think that's the Ring Elite right?

Rob
Click to expand...
Yeah, had a lot of trouble getting the first one to connect four or five years ago, they did software updates, and everything else, the second one I put in at a different location, a month ago booted right up, then a week later, a tree fell on it! Waiting on the gate guys to put everything back together.
 
marmathsen said:
I think that's the Ring Elite right?

Rob
Click to expand...
That's correct, the PoE versions of the Ring cameras are the Elite line. I have several of them along with the doorbell. The doorbell has a poor WiFi radio, it constantly say that the signal is weak yet it's only 10' from the router. I had to move the router just to get it to work.
 
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