RMC terminations
- Thread starter Twoskinsoneman
- Start date
- Status
- Location
- Simi Valley, CA
They use them mostly for gas lines, but you might be able to make it work.iwire said:
Awg-Dawg
Senior Member
- Location
- Dayton Ohio
celtic said:
Forum rules prohibit this type of post.
Awg-Dawg
Senior Member
- Location
- Dayton Ohio
celtic said:Look at the "new" guy poking the bear with a stick ...LOL
Don't laugh I only have 4900 more posts to go ahead of you.
Make that 4899!
- Location
- Simi Valley, CA
The same way that extension box you showed us pictures of does.celtic said:
Remeber it's only a gas fitting if you use it on a gas pipe. : )
- Location
- Simi Valley, CA
You can get them at any hardware store.
If this is heading where I think it might be, I don't believe that RMC is listed for electrical use only. It's no different than the pipe that was used for the plumbing in my moms house.
If this is heading where I think it might be, I don't believe that RMC is listed for electrical use only. It's no different than the pipe that was used for the plumbing in my moms house.
- Location
- Simi Valley, CA
To be perfectly honest with you, I don't know if it's listed at all.
And since I'm already getting into vacation mode, I don't really feel like looking it up. : ) But here's what I found
Left/Right Nipple and Coupling SET
These have standard right-hand thread on one side
and reverse (left-hand) thread on the other.
Generally used for gas piping,
when unions are not allowed
And since I'm already getting into vacation mode, I don't really feel like looking it up. : ) But here's what I found
Left/Right Nipple and Coupling SET
These have standard right-hand thread on one side
and reverse (left-hand) thread on the other.
Generally used for gas piping,
when unions are not allowed
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- Location
- Illinois
- Occupation
- retired electrician
How would a left/right coupling with out left hand threads on one of the conduits?
Don
Don
- Location
- Massachusetts
don_resqcapt19 said:
Exactly what made me think someones leg had been pulled. :smile:
- Location
- Simi Valley, CA
It's a coupling and nipple set.
From FAQs.
"Any left- and right-hand tricks?"
The trick for left- and right-hand fittings and couplings is to get the correct bite the first time. The way to do that is to insert one side of the nipple/coupling and hand-tighten. Count the number of turns to get it to hand-tight. Then take apart and do the same on the other side. If one side took more turns to get it to hand-tighten, then add (or subtract that number) before starting; and turn that amount into the side that took more turns. In other words, the secret is to tighten the same amount after hand-tightening.
From FAQs.
"Any left- and right-hand tricks?"
The trick for left- and right-hand fittings and couplings is to get the correct bite the first time. The way to do that is to insert one side of the nipple/coupling and hand-tighten. Count the number of turns to get it to hand-tight. Then take apart and do the same on the other side. If one side took more turns to get it to hand-tighten, then add (or subtract that number) before starting; and turn that amount into the side that took more turns. In other words, the secret is to tighten the same amount after hand-tightening.
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LarryFine
Master Electrician Electric Contractor Richmond VA
- Location
- Henrico County, VA
- Occupation
- Electrical Contractor
don_resqcapt19 said:
Apparently, there is a nipple with a left-hand thread one one end that screws into a standard coupling, that effectively makes that end into a left-handed thread.cowboyjwc said:
Sort of like a turn-buckle that one end threads onto standard-threaded rod.
So the stack would be: standard pipe end, standard coupling, standard/reversed nipple, reversed/standard coupling, standard pipe end.
John, any pics or links?
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- Location
- Simi Valley, CA
I'm looking for a pic, but all I can find is a description. I did find this that I thought was funny:
This one is also going to my civil engineer friend, a retired SeaBee, who once remarked (half with humor and half with bitterness), that the difference between civil engineers and aerospace engineers is that the latter make bombers and the former make targets.
Kathy
Pipe Specifications
All pipe is to be made of a long hole, surrounded by metal or plastic, centred around the hole.
All pipe is to be hollow throughout the entire length - do not use holes of different length than the pipe.
The ID (Inside Diameter) of all pipe must not exceed their OD (Outside Diameter) - otherwise the hole will be on the outside.
The pipe is supplied with nothing in the hole, so that water, steam or other substances can be put inside at a later date.
All pipe is to be supplied without rust; this can be more readily applied at the job site. NOTE: Some vendors are now able to supply pre-rusted pipes. If available in your area, this product is recommended, as it will save a great deal of time at the job site.
All pipe over 500ft (150m) in length should have the words ?LONG PIPE? clearly painted on each side and end, so the contractor will know it?s a long pipe.
Pipe over 2 miles (3.2km) in length must also have the words ?LONG PIPE? painted in the middle so the contractor will not have to walk the entire length of the pipe to determine whether it is a long or short pipe.
All pipe over 6ft (1.83m) in diameter must have the words ?LARGE PIPE? painted on it, so the contractor won?t mistake it for a small pipe.
Flanges must be used on all pipe. Flanges must have holes from bolts, quite separate from the big holes in the middle.
When ordering 90 or 30 degree elbows, be sure to specify left-hand or right-hand, otherwise you will end up going the wrong way.
Be sure to specify to your vendor whether you want level, uphill or downhill pipe. If you use downhill pipe for going uphill, the water will flow the wrong way.
All couplings should have either right-hand or left-hand threads, but do not mix the threads, otherwise, as the coupling is being screwed on to one pipe, it is being unscrewed from the other.
All pipes shorter than 1/8in (3mm) are very uneconomical in use, requiring many joints. They are generally known as washers.
Joints in pipes for water must be water tight. those pipes for compressed air, however, need only be air tight.
Lengths of pipes may be welded or soldered together. this method is not recomended for concrete or earthenware pipes.
Other commodities are often confused with pipes. These include; Conduit, Tube, Tunnel, and Drain. Use only genuine pipes.
This one is also going to my civil engineer friend, a retired SeaBee, who once remarked (half with humor and half with bitterness), that the difference between civil engineers and aerospace engineers is that the latter make bombers and the former make targets.
Kathy
Pipe Specifications
All pipe is to be made of a long hole, surrounded by metal or plastic, centred around the hole.
All pipe is to be hollow throughout the entire length - do not use holes of different length than the pipe.
The ID (Inside Diameter) of all pipe must not exceed their OD (Outside Diameter) - otherwise the hole will be on the outside.
The pipe is supplied with nothing in the hole, so that water, steam or other substances can be put inside at a later date.
All pipe is to be supplied without rust; this can be more readily applied at the job site. NOTE: Some vendors are now able to supply pre-rusted pipes. If available in your area, this product is recommended, as it will save a great deal of time at the job site.
All pipe over 500ft (150m) in length should have the words ?LONG PIPE? clearly painted on each side and end, so the contractor will know it?s a long pipe.
Pipe over 2 miles (3.2km) in length must also have the words ?LONG PIPE? painted in the middle so the contractor will not have to walk the entire length of the pipe to determine whether it is a long or short pipe.
All pipe over 6ft (1.83m) in diameter must have the words ?LARGE PIPE? painted on it, so the contractor won?t mistake it for a small pipe.
Flanges must be used on all pipe. Flanges must have holes from bolts, quite separate from the big holes in the middle.
When ordering 90 or 30 degree elbows, be sure to specify left-hand or right-hand, otherwise you will end up going the wrong way.
Be sure to specify to your vendor whether you want level, uphill or downhill pipe. If you use downhill pipe for going uphill, the water will flow the wrong way.
All couplings should have either right-hand or left-hand threads, but do not mix the threads, otherwise, as the coupling is being screwed on to one pipe, it is being unscrewed from the other.
All pipes shorter than 1/8in (3mm) are very uneconomical in use, requiring many joints. They are generally known as washers.
Joints in pipes for water must be water tight. those pipes for compressed air, however, need only be air tight.
Lengths of pipes may be welded or soldered together. this method is not recomended for concrete or earthenware pipes.
Other commodities are often confused with pipes. These include; Conduit, Tube, Tunnel, and Drain. Use only genuine pipes.
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