Romex connector?

Merry Christmas
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mdshunk said:
You company does mostly new work, and not so much service, I'd guess? If I did mostly new work, they'd be what I'd use too.
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Mostly new construction commercial/industrial work, but we do have a service/small projects division (in which I work) and we get the same stuff as the construction guys. The main issue is short circuits. You can't over tighten the screws on those connectors because there are none.

Tight screws on EMT and MC connectors = good.
Tight screws on Romex connectors = bad.

Sometimes we have trouble with going easy on connectors. ;) Hence the preference for the "T&B" style.
 
Out with the old in with the new!

Someday someone is going to invent something better than I'm used to. I can't wait to say, "Nah, those are CRAP! What kind of new-fangled thing is THAT?!?!"
 
Seriously, it takes me about 5 seconds to dismantle a plastic duplex connector from any box and the wire it supports.

How long does it take to unscrew your metal romex connector?
 
jaylectricity said:
Seriously, it takes me about 5 seconds to dismantle a plastic duplex connector from any box and the wire it supports.

How long does it take to unscrew your metal romex connector?
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I'd like to see you do that in a flush panel. I can slip a skinny screwdriver between the drywall and the edge of the panel and loosen a connector, and have the panel cover still hide the gouge mark.
 
mdshunk said:
I'd like to see you do that in a flush panel. I can slip a skinny screwdriver between the drywall and the edge of the panel and loosen a connector, and have the panel cover still hide the gouge mark.
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OK, but what purpose does that serve? Are you pulling the wires out from the attic above the panel or something? Or below in the basement?

What if your screw connector isn't facing front ways? How many times does somebody screw the clamp down before hitting the locknut? Then the screw is facing towards the stud or worse. How you gonna get to that then? With the plastic connector it doesn't matter which way it is facing...you can still knock it out of it's position.

If you're adding a wire to a panel, just fish your wire into a new KO. Pull it right through the knockout, clip on one of the plastic bad boys backwards and click it back into the knockout. Game Set Match.

How would you add a wire and a new metal connector to a flush panel?
 
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jaylectricity said:
How would you add a wire and a new metal connector to a flush panel?
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Affix the connector to the cable before fishing it, and use the cable to pull the connector into the KO and install the locknut from the inside.

And you? :)


My choice is Raco Insiders. They're like buttons that grip the other way.

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I do mostly service work and while there ARE certain situations where a 2 screw is easier to remove I still think plastic is quicker and safer than 2 screw.

I rarely use a metal box with romex anyway.
 
Romax connector

Romax connector

mdshunk said:
I curse those box connectors!

I do mostly service work, and as such, I swore I'd never use those connectors. They're a real "treat" to get a cable out of. I'm sure they do make the install fast, however. As far as shorts go... well, if that's a problem for you when using metal connectors, I'm going to commandeer your screwdriver.

I do use the "black buttons" on occasion, for flush items like strip lights and range hoods. They're not so bad to get a cable back out of if the need arises.
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Couldn't have said it better Marc. Sometimes I use the plastic type like the first one that Emahler showed. I personally use the old style and perfer them. Semper Fi. Buddy. (PS Marc are you going to furnish the Cool Aid?)
 
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