Rotozip useful?

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lordofpi

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New Jersey
I've heard the hype of Rotozip and its cousins for carving holes in walls and ceilings for drywallers for a long time. Are any electricians out there bothering with this tool? I do a lot of service work (i.e., repair) rather than new construction; thus, I routinely use my jigsaw (or Sawzall if need be) for cutting holes for boxes, etc., in existing finished walls. I was wondering if this is really another tool worth carrying around, or just another "as seen on TV" type of product for DIYers.
 
Seldom does a week go by where I don't use mine. It doesn't vibrate old plaster walls, so you can get a slick cutout without little chunks accidentally popping off. You definately need to stock up on the tile bits, though, since that's the only thing that will work on plaster.
 
Not sure about the actual "rotozip" but i have used the Ryobi spiral cut saw and it's very useful. I'd rather use that on any old work for cutting lathe and plaster, tile, oldworking boxes into siding of vinyl or wood. No acutal vibrating like other saws that'll pull apart the surrounding area (especially when cutting in plaster with a sawzall or jigsaw) ... so yes, i would definately recommend it!
 
Right, in cold weather, I would only attempt to cut existing vinyl siding cutouts with a RotoZip. Once time and UV get to vinyl siding, and couple that with cold, and it's super easy to crack a piece.
 
Here's my set-up...use it for many different applictions:

Rotozip (I recommend a CORDED model...I've burnt out too many cordless models)
RZ10tool_RZ_pd.jpg


Circle Cutter ~ Rotozip #CRCT1
CRCT1_pd.jpg


Vacuum attachment ~ Roto-zip #RZVAC1
RZVAC1_RZ_pd.jpg


Vacuum ~ Dewalt DC-500 Corded/cordless
DC500_1.gif



Just select the right bit - or combination of bits and off you go


SWEET

No mess...no clean-up...done
 
Put me in the roto-zip using camp.

I don't use it everyday, but it's a useful tool that doesn't take up a lot of space.

Keep it well-stocked with bits. Nothing's worse than having the tool all ready to go, and no bit. :mad:
 
I have one and I rarely use it. I work almost exclusively on old houses, and when I got the tool I used it on plaster a few times to try it out. The sight of a glowing red bit boring through plaster backed by 100+ year old lath made me uncomfortable, so I have almost stopped using it for old work.

Tile's another story, though -- it's worth the price of admission the first time you have to cut a box into a wall full of irreplaceable tile. You'll wonder how you ever lived without it. As Marc mentioned, stock up on tile bits. And by all means get a dust-collection attachment for it.
 
ceknight said:
...when I got the tool I used it on plaster a few times to try it out. The sight of a glowing red bit boring through plaster backed by 100+ year old lath made me uncomfortable, so I have almost stopped using it for old work.
That only tells me one thing. The bit you were using was wrong. I've never had a glowing red bit, unless I was using the wrong one for the application.
 
You might consider using the 1/4" carbide bit instead of the 1/8". A bit bulkier but less prone to "bit burn out." Also the side grinder attachment with the diamond tip blade is useful for cutting through most everything (and they last forever)

c2500
 
mdshunk said:
That only tells me one thing. The bit you were using was wrong. I've never had a glowing red bit, unless I was using the wrong one for the application.

Nope, sorry. Plaster bits, taking it slow and easy. It cut just fine, too, but that bit was red enough to cause me discomfort.
 
ceknight said:
Nope, sorry. Plaster bits, taking it slow and easy. It cut just fine, too, but that bit was red enough to cause me discomfort.
That must have been some hard stuff, or a bum bit. I've never had that happen. Threw a few sparks here and there cutting through wire lath, though.
 
Wow, I finally hit on a topic just about everyone can agree on! :grin:

I guess I'll make the move. To follow up: I've spent much money bringing a good deal of my arsenal to the cordless level (in addition to the corded), so I am just wondering how serious is the difference in this case?

For instance, my standard-carry-for-the-day drills and Sawzalls are all cordless LiIon now, and they really work to par, especially Milwaukees V28 stuff; corded tools stay at the shop unless I know I will need them. Is there a good chance the cordless Rotozip will burn out, as some have suggested?

Also, will I now be able to sell my jigsaw?
 
And.... rotozip "blades" fit the Dremmel too. I tend to shorten the blade to make it more manageable (read - less dangerous), but they are then handy tools for putting extra holes in plastic boxes in hard to reach locations...
 
I use the roto zip for cutting in boxes and cans. Some of the guys I work with give me a hard time about not using jigsaws or hole saws, but I just feel more comfortable using the roto zip, I try and keep a sharp bit in it and cut halfway through the material Im cutting the first go round then clean it out with the second passing, that seems to make for easy and accurate cutting in thicker wood. Guess it boils down to what works best for you.
 
480sparky said:
I don't use my roto-zip enough to justify a cordless model. If I had one, I would need to charge it up just to use it.

I have both the corded (Craftsman) and cordless (DeWalt) the cordless will go through some batteries so I use it for trimming tile, one or two cutouts much more I bring out the corded one. I have found that when cutting horizontally right to left, vertical bottom to top I have better control and it doesnt try to "walk" as bad.
 
Roto is a great tool. I had to cut a recessed in existing tile shower ceiling, made it simple and didnt damage the tile.
 
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