Rough-in Box Brackets, level 5 finish

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4" sq with side bracket. those expandable Caddy brackets can be used but ONE end with encounter open side of metal stud and you can't fix situation because you can't screw to the face.

your GC sucks! They make flat mushroom head screws for this situation.
 
farmantenna said:
4" sq with side bracket. those expandable Caddy brackets can be used but ONE end with encounter open side of metal stud and you can't fix situation because you can't screw to the face.
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LarryFine said:
Yes, and you can turn the stud around if the flat is on the wrong side (if we're talking about steel framing).
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Or add your own stud in the position and direction that suits you.

If it's a tight spot, screw the box to the stud before you screw the stud in place.
 
I have used these

52171-fs.jpg
 
hbiss said:
.....l
Well, if the stud is sandwiched between two sides of 5/8 sheetrock that is adequately screwed I don't see it moving anywhere. Caddy brackets make installation easier and support the box with a "foot" from the opposite side sheetrock keeping the box from pushing in where the problem really is. This is really what the OP should be using but they still require screws on the face of the stud. Caddy does have low profile pan head screws for this.

I fail to see why this is an issue. A properly skim coated wall should cover any imperfection. I think the problem really is with the tapers and finishers he has not doing a good job.
-Hal
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I agree, and if the screws from a face mount an issue with the rockers, tapers, finishers, they have no business doing it. And if that is an issue, you better not use a 4sq box, the face screws will send them screaming and crying to mommy. I've yet to find a residential rocker who knows what to do with a 4sq with 1/2" mud ring on 1/2" rock. Had humps so bad can't get a cover plate to sit against the wall.
I'm tired of the onerous of other trades lack of ability seems to comeback on the electrician who is constantly asked to do unsafe or code violating installation just to make their jobs "easier" with a plethora of "Can't You Just". (Not that the request to the OP is a code violation yet.) Come back to do finals and find Plumbing installed over my panel or hvac blocking access to panel "working space". (Just other examples of same problem.)
 
Fred B said:
I agree, and if the screws from a face mount an issue with the rockers, tapers, finishers, they have no business doing it. And if that is an issue, you better not use a 4sq box, the face screws will send them screaming and crying to mommy. I've yet to find a residential rocker who knows what to do with a 4sq with 1/2" mud ring on 1/2" rock. Had humps so bad can't get a cover plate to sit against the wall.
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If it's that big an issue, they should shave some gypsum off of the back side over the bracket.

I use the side-bracket boxes, too, and set the box back so the corner screws will not project past the stud face, and use 5/8" rings.
 
growler said:
If something like this is included in the job specifications then it can be enforced.
It's up to the sub contractor to read these specs before bidding the job.
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I am not disagreeing with this. We intend to make this work. Just trying to come up with a solution, that is productive. This is a resi high-rise, and being that is repetitive, need to find a production way to install these boxes.
 
Thanks all. IMO, this should be the mud and tapers problem. My kneejerk response is this is means and methods for us. It is the tapers job to provide the finish. However, the GC is just asking to see what we can do to contribute to this issue.
 
Fred B said:
I agree, and if the screws from a face mount an issue with the rockers, tapers, finishers, they have no business doing it. And if that is an issue, you better not use a 4sq box, the face screws will send them screaming and crying to mommy. I've yet to find a residential rocker who knows what to do with a 4sq with 1/2" mud ring on 1/2" rock. Had humps so bad can't get a cover plate to sit against the wall.
I'm tired of the onerous of other trades lack of ability seems to comeback on the electrician who is constantly asked to do unsafe or code violating installation just to make their jobs "easier" with a plethora of "Can't You Just". (Not that the request to the OP is a code violation yet.) Come back to do finals and find Plumbing installed over my panel or hvac blocking access to panel "working space". (Just other examples of same problem.)
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please don't get us going! we're aware. well aware of what happens when we're away. You have to be the job supervisor sometimes . I put on my plates revealing the hug gaps and walk away. I might purposefully use old size flexible Leviton plates just to screw them all.
 
Just use a block of wood on the open stud, them mount the caddy bracket end to that. You can secure the block theough the metal stud on the side so nothing is on the face.
 
JoeyD74 said:
Just use a block of wood on the open stud, them mount the caddy bracket end to that. You can secure the block theough the metal stud on the side so nothing is on the face.
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Excellent idea! (y) You could drive through the stud in either direction if you compensate for, or cut away the open-side lip.

You could use a front-bracket box, a nail-on, almost anything, and still have an almost infinite depth/setback adjust-ability.
 
Greenboy said:
Has anyone experience GC not wanting screws on the face of the studs, for the reason of bulging drywall? The GC is trying to achieve level 5 finish. It is written in the spec that brackets shall be fastened to the inside of the framing stud.

Are there such brackets?
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But he has no problem with these? Does anyone use these except me? FWIW, I use a wood chisel to take some wood away to prevent bulge... what BS.
 

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