Rough-in box heights

[James L]

These are pretty https://www.legrand.us/wiring-devices/adorne-collection/outlets/adorne-20a-one-gang-pop-out-outlet/p/arptr201gw2?msclkid=dee069a84d87198775cb0bc645708dfb&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=(ROI) Shopping - Branded&utm_term=4586887638851168&utm_content=Outlets

I wire new homes for one guy who uses adorne devices. They do look nice, and those pop-outs look super slick

 

[McLintock]

Back 20 years ago, I learned in a office complex to do outlet boxes at 15” to bottom and switch and any counter top ones at 48” to top. I have some 1&2 one at 15” and the other at 44 3/8”. If I do a bigger garage/shop I set my laser up a 48” and go to town.


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[infinity]

I will make sure to call you when I trimout the current job. 2.75 AFF horizontal.

Those are a pain but aesthetically they look better in the baseboard. Need a young electrician for those.

 

[jimport]

Those are a pain but aesthetically they look better in the baseboard. Need a young electrician for those.

They are in the baseboard. Baseboard is 5.5"

 

[kwired]

A jig or two would just be one or two more pieces to carry around. I nail up with a hammer and a screwdriver. No tool belt, no fumbling around with a bunch of extra time killers

hammer and screwdriver= 2 items to carry

hammer and jig = 2 items to carry

your screwdriver is the jig I'm assuming. The box is there for every location so ignore it and maybe even presume you scattered them around to near each location before starting to mount them.

hammer, tape measure, pen/pencil = 3 items to carry plus takes a little more time than a jig.

jig made out of material same thickness as wall covering means quicker depth setting as well.

I don't have a jig for the switch height boxes or counter high boxes, but at same time don't have to bend down to make measurements and such so those tend to go reasonably quickly even if using tape measure and marking the height, they would need a larger jig that is more of a problem to store and handle. The small jig for "regular receptacles" is small enough it just gets thrown into the case of unused 1 gang boxes at the end of job and is there for next time that case is brought to a job.

 

[kwired]

Those are a pain but aesthetically they look better in the baseboard. Need a young electrician for those.

If a carpenter is cutting them out, if cutting into existing work baseboard kind of a PITA, and to look better in the baseboard you may need to select certain color for device/plate depending on finish of the baseboard. White device/plate stands out too much in stained trim board and a brown/black device would look better. Opposite is true for white painted trim boards.

 

[James L]

hammer and screwdriver= 2 items to carry

hammer and jig = 2 items to carry

I do a markout with the customer, usually before HVAC or plumbing are started. That way I can give them some hints as to where my boxes are going. My heights are marked already.

I walk in and start passing out boxes first.

When I nail up walls, I really only need a hammer. I carry my screwdriver for instances where there's not enough room between 2 studs to swing my hammer to hit the nails. I put the side of the screwdriver on the head of a nail, and hit the screwdriver with my hammer. I don't carry a tape measure when nailing walls

Then when it's time to nail up ceiling, I keep the screwdriver with me and use it as a scratch awl. Then I'm using 3 tools (add tape measure)

Any additional stuff is just wasting time

 

[norcal]

Nice to see someone set proper depth, one of my pet peeves is floating receptacles, with standard plates they will shatter the 1st time a plug is inserted, & still sloppy with thermoplastic plates.