We took down a bunch of temporary acsr overhead triplex.There were several split bolt left on it that had been rubber taped and 33'd. Does anyone know a trick to getting the rubber tape off without taking forever.Dual rated split bolt are expensive and hate to see them get thrown out just because no one wants to take the time to get em off. Thanks.
Rubber Tape
- Thread starter jap2525
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LarryFine
Master Electrician Electric Contractor Richmond VA
- Location
- Henrico County, VA
- Occupation
- Electrical Contractor
Re: Rubber Tape
Sharp razor knife, aka box cutter. Slit the tape from conductor to conductor, down one side, as if you were slitting a banana peel. Then peel it off in one hunk with pliers.
P.S. If nobody wants to do it, send them to me!
[ January 21, 2006, 11:37 PM: Message edited by: LarryFine ]
Sharp razor knife, aka box cutter. Slit the tape from conductor to conductor, down one side, as if you were slitting a banana peel. Then peel it off in one hunk with pliers.
P.S. If nobody wants to do it, send them to me!
[ January 21, 2006, 11:37 PM: Message edited by: LarryFine ]
al hildenbrand
Senior Member
- Location
- Minnesota
- Occupation
- Electrical Contractor, Electrical Consultant, Electrical Engineer
Re: Rubber Tape
Just kiddin'.
Some time back I picked up the hint for insulating split bolts, especially when they're going in temporary. </font>
No send them to me!
Just kiddin'.
Some time back I picked up the hint for insulating split bolts, especially when they're going in temporary. </font>
- <font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Start a serving of plastic tape with one or two wraps on one conductor, then flip the tape over as the tape starts onto the split bolt.</font>
- <font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Wrap the split bolt with the plastic tape sticky side out.</font>
- <font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Finish off this first serving of tape on a conductor, as usual.</font>
- <font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Cover and fill the split bolt with rubber tape as usual.</font>
- <font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Finish off by covering the rubber tape with 33 or the outer covering of your choice.</font>
paul
Senior Member
- Location
- Snohomish, WA
Re: Rubber Tape
I got to the point where I just toss those old rubber-taped covered split-bolts. It's not worth the hassle to me.
I got to the point where I just toss those old rubber-taped covered split-bolts. It's not worth the hassle to me.
Re: Rubber Tape
wow! guess my age is showing. how about varnish-cambric tape? I thought the "stradard" for taping split-bolt connections was a layer or two of VC tape to add physical protection to the sharp edges as well as adding a non-adhesive barrier making it easier to peel if necessaey. Does no one use VC tape anymore?
wow! guess my age is showing. how about varnish-cambric tape? I thought the "stradard" for taping split-bolt connections was a layer or two of VC tape to add physical protection to the sharp edges as well as adding a non-adhesive barrier making it easier to peel if necessaey. Does no one use VC tape anymore?
- Location
- Massachusetts
Re: Rubber Tape
At this point through the split bolts away.
There are many better options for connections now.
At this point through the split bolts away.
There are many better options for connections now.
hardworkingstiff
Senior Member
- Location
- Wilmington, NC
Re: Rubber Tape
I agree with Bob. Who really uses split bolts these days?
- Location
- Windsor, CO NEC: 2017
- Occupation
- Hospital Master Electrician
- Location
- Massachusetts
Re: Rubber Tape
However a preinsulated mechanical wire connector is a brand-less way of describing it.
[ January 22, 2006, 12:34 PM: Message edited by: iwire ]
Around here many call it a Polaris tap.Originally posted by georgestolz:
What the heck is it called, anyway?
However a preinsulated mechanical wire connector is a brand-less way of describing it.
[ January 22, 2006, 12:34 PM: Message edited by: iwire ]
- Location
- Windsor, CO NEC: 2017
- Occupation
- Hospital Master Electrician
Re: Rubber Tape
Okay. I tried to pull up a picture online once before, and couldn't think of the right terms in my google search to come across the right item.
Okay. I tried to pull up a picture online once before, and couldn't think of the right terms in my google search to come across the right item.
Re: Rubber Tape
I've been on several service calls where the Polaris insulated Splices were used and were the culprit.I will not use them if I can keep from it. I'd rather crimp splice.I even went on a service call one time that had a loose neutral connection in a gutter that I had to get to by moving the phase conductors out of the way to get to it. When I went to pull the conductors out of the way all 4 phase conductors came out of the polaris splice.Dont get me wrong,Polaris splices haver their place but I also dont feel the lugs are deep enough. J.M.O.
I've been on several service calls where the Polaris insulated Splices were used and were the culprit.I will not use them if I can keep from it. I'd rather crimp splice.I even went on a service call one time that had a loose neutral connection in a gutter that I had to get to by moving the phase conductors out of the way to get to it. When I went to pull the conductors out of the way all 4 phase conductors came out of the polaris splice.Dont get me wrong,Polaris splices haver their place but I also dont feel the lugs are deep enough. J.M.O.
russ
Senior Member
- Location
- Burbank IL
Re: Rubber Tape
Not much I can say about getting the rubber off now.
I was taught to rap friction tape first then rubber then plastic.
The friction peals off like paper once cut to that point.
Not much I can say about getting the rubber off now.
I was taught to rap friction tape first then rubber then plastic.
The friction peals off like paper once cut to that point.
Re: Rubber Tape
I used them about 2 years ago on my last parking lot job....3?-N-G in to handhole/manhole, 3?-N-G out of handhole/manhole, 1 rod with a #6 (?) conductor, 2 circuits up each pole (5 wires). Some handholes/manholes also had a 3rd or 4th 3?-N-G arrangement leaving.
Those preinsulated mechanical /Polaris style wire connectors are simply awesome for pole lighting.Originally posted by brentp:
Pole light connections especially.
I used them about 2 years ago on my last parking lot job....3?-N-G in to handhole/manhole, 3?-N-G out of handhole/manhole, 1 rod with a #6 (?) conductor, 2 circuits up each pole (5 wires). Some handholes/manholes also had a 3rd or 4th 3?-N-G arrangement leaving.
Re: Rubber Tape
If they wrapped the rubber tape right on the bug, it is never easy. Especially if the connection heated up... the rubber "melts" into every crack.
Our co. uses the Homac RXL connectors for 480v and less, underground splices. They are easy to install, take from #12 to 350mcm, and are submersible.
They are also very expensive.
But so is having to repair a damaged connection.
Homacer
If they wrapped the rubber tape right on the bug, it is never easy. Especially if the connection heated up... the rubber "melts" into every crack.
Our co. uses the Homac RXL connectors for 480v and less, underground splices. They are easy to install, take from #12 to 350mcm, and are submersible.
They are also very expensive.
But so is having to repair a damaged connection.
Homacer
mdshunk
Senior Member
- Location
- Right here.
Re: Rubber Tape
I've pretty much switched to using H-Taps (and sometimes C-Taps) for installations where I'd have used split bolts in the past. Get yourself a Burndy MD6-8 crimper (about 300 bucks), and you can quit using the high dollar split bolts and Polaris taps. An H-Tap is about 89 cents at my supply house.Originally posted by brentp:
Not trying to hijack, but what are some of the "new" connections being used in lieu of split bolts? I'm always looking for a better mousetrap. Pole light connections especially.
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