Saw something for the first time...

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Clayton79

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I’m sure many of you have seen this before, but it was a first for me so I took a picture and thought I would share it. And let the thread drift where it may I’m just wondering if any have seen similar things in old homes, this is in central Illinois, home from probably before turn of century based on basement construction and knob and tube wiring (not shown)
902e5d1280cfa1f6eeb0d597d6f2d761.jpg

Referring to the fused keyless fixture.


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I’m sure many of you have seen this before, but it was a first for me so I took a picture and thought I would share it. And let the thread drift where it may I’m just wondering if any have seen similar things in old homes, this is in central Illinois, home from probably before turn of century based on basement construction and knob and tube wiring (not shown)
902e5d1280cfa1f6eeb0d597d6f2d761.jpg

Referring to the fused keyless fixture.


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Does the fuse just supply the transformer right next to it? If so, bet whoever initially installed it didn't intend for it to have a 20 amp fuse installed.

May no longer have same boiler as was there when it was installed either. A 24v control circuit may have been all that was needed at one time, today there may be circulating pump(s) that weren't originally there.
 
I’m sure many of you have seen this before, but it was a first for me so I took a picture and thought I would share it. And let the thread drift where it may I’m just wondering if any have seen similar things in old homes, this is in central Illinois, home from probably before turn of century based on basement construction and knob and tube wiring (not shown)
902e5d1280cfa1f6eeb0d597d6f2d761.jpg

Referring to the fused keyless fixture.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Yes, but not lately.
 
Home is probably 1910s - 20s
Before that, gas lighting was common

Fuse holders are incorporated into an octagon/round cover even today. Somebody just realized a keyless is much cheaper. Same Edison socket, more or less
 

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Wouldnt the keyless lampholder have a lower current carrying capacity (wording it that way since I've never seen a lampholder with a current rating on it) than a fuseholder? I wonder if this is behind a circuit breaker or is tapped off the buss or a large breaker.
 
Wouldnt the keyless lampholder have a lower current carrying capacity (wording it that way since I've never seen a lampholder with a current rating on it) than a fuseholder? I wonder if this is behind a circuit breaker or is tapped off the buss or a large breaker.
Some older lampholders possibly can carry much more current without failure than many newer ones, particularly ones with aluminum shell.
 
Thanks for all the replies!
I will have more info in a month or so when I start the rewire, current heating set up is a hot water boiler/ radiator setup. I didn’t have time to trace everything...it is interesting what folks come up with out in the middle of nowhere. i.e. Service drop is connected with large blue 3m wire nuts,...also a new one for me. 60 amp fuse panel partly shown in pic, and 4 or 5 smaller disconnects for Various appliances that part at least is common


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Thanks for all the replies!
I will have more info in a month or so when I start the rewire, current heating set up is a hot water boiler/ radiator setup. I didn’t have time to trace everything...it is interesting what folks come up with out in the middle of nowhere. i.e. Service drop is connected with large blue 3m wire nuts,...also a new one for me. 60 amp fuse panel partly shown in pic, and 4 or 5 smaller disconnects for Various appliances that part at least is common


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I rewired a house a few years ago that had radiator heat. They replaced the boiler with a much small unit, and put zone control. Second floor retained the radaitors, but they removed the first floor radiators and installed radiant floor heat.

Wireless Honeywell thermostats were really neat, could control any setup imaginable. I got called back to install them because HVAC guys couldn't figure them out.
 
I rewired a house a few years ago that had radiator heat. They replaced the boiler with a much small unit, and put zone control. Second floor retained the radaitors, but they removed the first floor radiators and installed radiant floor heat.

Wireless Honeywell thermostats were really neat, could control any setup imaginable. I got called back to install them because HVAC guys couldn't figure them out.
OT: How expensive? I have a customer with a rental that could benefit, but the costs were pretty high for the stat I found.
 
I rewired a house a few years ago that had radiator heat. They replaced the boiler with a much small unit, and put zone control. Second floor retained the radaitors, but they removed the first floor radiators and installed radiant floor heat.

Wireless Honeywell thermostats were really neat, could control any setup imaginable. I got called back to install them because HVAC guys couldn't figure them out.

I always try to talk them it of wireless unless it’s absolutely necessary. They come with their own issues that can cause frustration for the end user and make future repairs more expensive. Customers often hate that they need to replace the batteries every year and it can mean them having to go through a small setup process each time, specially if they died while they were on vacation.

Wired is always the way to go when a wire can be pulled. You couldn’t pull a wire for them?
 
I always try to talk them it of wireless unless it’s absolutely necessary. They come with their own issues that can cause frustration for the end user and make future repairs more expensive. Customers often hate that they need to replace the batteries every year and it can mean them having to go through a small setup process each time, specially if they died while they were on vacation.

Wired is always the way to go when a wire can be pulled. You couldn’t pull a wire for them?
hvac tech had pulled a wire to the first floor location controlling the radiant heat, then he had first floor a/c on same stat as second floor heat, in a really awkward upstairs stat location.

The second floor a/c had an air handler in the attic, stat brain wired and hanging out of the air handler. I was not able to get a wire to the stat location. I mounted brain on the air handler, with a control wire to the basement to the boiler valve (ran alongside line set outside down to basement). Then wireless remote stat

I ended up removing wired stats.

I remember the programming was not easy, I was on the phone with Honeywell a while. Never really thought about the battery issue 😳

Most definitely good food for thought
 
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