See anything wrong here ?

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Will the real bluecollar84 please stand up!!
Is this a quiz or will it be a question on the E-1 exam.:lol:

I think this could be partially related to his other recent thread about Aluminum wiring.

Whatever the case is, as said above, whats in the pic wont fly. The joints look fine w/no signs of failure, but still, they have been done incorrectly (or at least in a way that wouldn't meet current code) and the setup, as is, is potentially dangerous.

The OP needs to peruse that other thread for the solutions on that, he needs a KO seal, drywall needs to be fixed, box may need better/different support than whats there... etc. Fletcher is right too about the lack of free conductor, though I'd say that most of the conductors are just shy of whats required and there is at least enough there to work with and it isn't extra crispy- an rarity in many of those older CBs if that has been there a while.
 
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I think this could be partially related to his other recent thread about Aluminum wiring.

Whatever the case is, as said above, whats in the pic wont fly. The joints look fine w/no signs of failure, but still, they have been done incorrectly (or at least in a way that wouldn't meet current code) and the setup, as is, is potentially dangerous.

The OP needs to peruse that other thread for the solutions on that, he needs a KO seal, drywall needs to be fixed, box may need better/different support than whats there... etc. Fletcher is right too about the lack of free conductor, though I'd say that most of the conductors are just shy of whats required and there is at least enough there to work with and it isn't extra crispy- an rarity in many of those older CBs if that has been there a while.

Pigtailing the AL wire with Aluminconns will correct the Cu/Al problem as well as free conductor length. and it is rare that the fixture hasnt smoked the wires.

Didnt notice before, but the missing screw may be due to what appears to be no threads left in that mounting tab.
 
Didnt notice before, but the missing screw may be due to what appears to be no threads left in that mounting tab.

Didnt see that either , but that definitely looks stripped out.

OP is better off just replacing the box than even attempting to mess with that or plugging the open KO.
More benefit with going new is a deeper box to accommodate those Alumiconns.:)

Wouldn't take more than a few minutes.
 
Those are the wrong wire nuts for a copper/alluminum splice. Open knockout and the box doesn't appear to be grounded. Anything I'm missing ?:D
 
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