septic tank pump questions.

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zappy

Senior Member
Location
CA.
Receptacle inside the tank, unless it is listed for the location.

Typically we do not see the receptacle or related wiring inside the tank.
This is one of the few times cords installed in raceways (usually PVC) stubbed through the concrete is permitted in our area.

It's a 3/4" pvc pipe coming in. There's no way the plugs would fit through it. It doesn't sound like I can put a outlet inside the tank. What if I detached the existing cords and installed longer cords without a plug on it, so that it will fit in the 3/4" pipe? Or is the only way to do it, is to install a larger pipe so the plugs will fit?
 

zappy

Senior Member
Location
CA.
If this pump has a integral float, thats part of the pump you wont have access to the switched side of the float and wont be able to wire a light to come on with the pump, if the switch wires does come up to the power connection then wire the light with the motor (parallel)
I do small lift stations two different ways, one is to use a Arlington post with a single 20 amp receptacle/ with a inuse cover, just outside the pit, <<<it last the longest, if I have to install a receptacle in the pit(owner don't like the post), I use a cord cap filled with dielectric grease (both front and back) and plug in the float and pump. in small tanks single pump, we always get pumps with plugs on the cord, I don't cut them off as it can void the warranty.

For commercial installations, the pump almost always comes with stripped cords, as well as the floats, there is always 3 to 4 floats (lead, lag, bottom stop, and high alarm which is some times combined with the lag)

these are almost always piped from the pit to a control box, and sealed for air between the tank and control box, we use almost all SS R3 cabinets. and if not supplied build our own controls with alternating relay to share the pump load, along with hour meters or cycle meters or both and such.:D
Cell link monitoring with subscriber service is done by others.

So far I have never been required to go explosion proof, the only reason we air block is to keep the fumes out of the controls, as on cold mornings the moisture from the pit will condensate all over the inside of the control panel and corrode everything, and while working in the panel it helps keep the smell out;)

There are two cords, one from the float switch and one from the pump motor. The directions call it a piggyback switched plug, or something like that. How would you install a light without cutting off the plugs? I'm stumped:-?
 
It's a 3/4" pvc pipe coming in. There's no way the plugs would fit through it. It doesn't sound like I can put a outlet inside the tank. What if I detached the existing cords and installed longer cords without a plug on it, so that it will fit in the 3/4" pipe? Or is the only way to do it, is to install a larger pipe so the plugs will fit?


I would increase the size of the raceway.
 

Power Tech

Senior Member
If this pump has a integral float, thats part of the pump you wont have access to the switched side of the float and wont be able to wire a light to come on with the pump, if the switch wires does come up to the power connection then wire the light with the motor (parallel)
I do small lift stations two different ways, one is to use a Arlington post with a single 20 amp receptacle/ with a inuse cover, just outside the pit, <<<it last the longest, if I have to install a receptacle in the pit(owner don't like the post), I use a cord cap filled with dielectric grease (both front and back) and plug in the float and pump. in small tanks single pump, we always get pumps with plugs on the cord, I don't cut them off as it can void the warranty.

For commercial installations, the pump almost always comes with stripped cords, as well as the floats, there is always 3 to 4 floats (lead, lag, bottom stop, and high alarm which is some times combined with the lag)

these are almost always piped from the pit to a control box, and sealed for air between the tank and control box, we use almost all SS R3 cabinets. and if not supplied build our own controls with alternating relay to share the pump load, along with hour meters or cycle meters or both and such.:D
Cell link monitoring with subscriber service is done by others.

So far I have never been required to go explosion proof, the only reason we air block is to keep the fumes out of the controls, as on cold mornings the moisture from the pit will condensate all over the inside of the control panel and corrode everything, and while working in the panel it helps keep the smell out;)

That sounds like a good install.

I use a hand hole and seal the pipe, inside and outside.

Another barrier to methane. That stuff will kill a panel overnight.

I know great stuff foam is not approved but, it's the best.

On connections I use the waterproof wire nuts.
 

hardworkingstiff

Senior Member
Location
Wilmington, NC
There are two cords, one from the float switch and one from the pump motor. The directions call it a piggyback switched plug, or something like that. How would you install a light without cutting off the plugs? I'm stumped:-?

This is what I understand. You have a cord from the pump with a male plug on it. You have a cord from the switch with a "piggyback" plug (a male portion to pick up power and a female portion to deliver power after the switch is activated). You want to have a light come on with the pump (which I'm not sure why, I would think a light should come on only if the liquid level gets too high, but that's not what I understood you to ask).

So, if I understand you correctly, here is a way I believe you could accomplish what you want.

Install a larger raceway so you can fish the cords with the plugs out of the pit and into a box.

Install your source power in the box and plug your switch piggyback plug into the source receptacle.

Make a cord up with a duplex receptacle on one end and a male plug on the other end. Plug the male plug from this cord you made into the piggyback female section. Plug the pump into one outlet on the duplex plug you installed on the other end of the cord you made up.

Make up another cord that feeds the light you want to power when the pump comes on with a male plug on one end and the light wired on the other end. Plug this cord into the other outlet on the duplex receptacle where the pump is plugged in.

Now whenever the pump comes on the light will come on. You need to make sure the switch can handle the additional load.
 

hurk27

Senior Member
There are two cords, one from the float switch and one from the pump motor. The directions call it a piggyback switched plug, or something like that. How would you install a light without cutting off the plugs? I'm stumped:-?

I wouldn't have the light come on with the pump, as it only needs to come on if the tank gets too high, I would pick up another float, and mount it a foot higher then the pump float, and then wire it to switch the light.

As for whether or not the receptacle can be in the pit, that would be up to your AHJ, we do them both ways as in my other post.:D
 

augie47

Moderator
Staff member
Location
Tennessee
Occupation
State Electrical Inspector (Retired)
Most installs here are a combination of the previous suggestions.
A 2" PVC to allow the cords/plugs to extend to a PVC j box with a receptacle, A second float to activate an alarm. In TN there is a rule that the alarm circuit must be separate from the pump circuit. Often the alarm float here is wired low voltage back to a "factory" alarm panel (light-sonalert-silence button, etc)
 

hurk27

Senior Member
Most installs here are a combination of the previous suggestions.
A 2" PVC to allow the cords/plugs to extend to a PVC j box with a receptacle, A second float to activate an alarm. In TN there is a rule that the alarm circuit must be separate from the pump circuit. Often the alarm float here is wired low voltage back to a "factory" alarm panel (light-sonalert-silence button, etc)

Forgot about those LV alarms, yep we use those too on home installs, 14/2 UF back to the house from a separate float, and if the pump doesn't keep up it wakes the whole house lol.

But I can't belive what the septic tank guys charge the HO for those little cheep alarms, over $100:mad:

Theres nothing to them, metal box, a cheep slide switch, and smal red light, and a cheep LV buzzer. but I havent been able to find them locally.
 

zappy

Senior Member
Location
CA.
Thank you everyone for your help.

Thank you everyone for your help.

Very much appreciated.
 
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