Service for a 3-family with common panel in Boston

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jaylectricity

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Massachusetts
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licensed journeyman electrician
Here's the long version that should answer many of the follow-up questions that the short version at the bottom of this post might elicit. If you want to cut to the chase, start at the bottom of the picture.

A customer has a 3 story building that was a complete gut job. The permit was pulled last year so we're working with the 2005 NEC. Each floor is its own apartment with a few common hallways and stairwells. There is also a small room that serves as an office with a small bathroom which will be occupied by the owner. This room does not connect with any of the common areas, it has two egresses. At the moment the plan is to put that room on the common panel. The inspector came for the rough inspection. He looked at most of the first floor and some of the second. We discussed a few things and he signed the card. He never looked at the 3rd floor or this other office. Anybody that has dealt with the inspector in South Boston is probably not surprised.

The owner of the building and I have worked together long enough that I let him buy the materials and I install them. If there's a problem with the materials he replaces them and pays me to re-install them. He got a hold of 200 feet of aluminum SER which we used to feed the subpanels in each unit. I think it might be 2/0 or a size smaller...definitely larger than needed for a 100 amp panel and the heat, stoves, and dryer will all be gas in the building. All the feeders from each panel have enough to reach the new location for the meters. I will be able to completely build this service without disrupting the old service or the temporary power in the building. When I am done, I'll cut the old service and bring the drop from one corner of the building along the wall to the adjacent corner with no problem. The drop is spliced in mid-span approximately half that distance, so it will reach.

There is asbestos siding on this building. I planned on using the pictured type of meter unless any of you have a better suggestion. I'll use a PVC riser for the drop and I assume that I need to have 4 holes drilled in the wall to come into 4 KOs in the back of the meter box. Otherwise I thought maybe a 4 gang side by side meter panel with 4 PVC LBs coming out of the wall below the meters and piping up into 4 KOs in the bottom of the meter box.

Ground rods will drive easily into the dirt into the basement on the opposite side of the same wall where the meters will be mounted. He already has a length of wire that I can use for the water ground.

Here is the meter panel that he has on the same type of building across the street (I didn't install):

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So in summary: I need to put 4 meters w/mains on a single drop for a 3-family building in S. Boston. The SER feeders to the subpanels are oversized AL because they were free. I'm concerned about getting them into the meter panel. There's asbestos tile where the meters will go. I've drilled into asbestos tile before, but it was just to sink a few screws for pipe and/or fixtures. I'll have to drill 4 holes for the feeders which is probably unavoidable* but I have an asbestos mask and goggles. I will be able to build the entire system without disrupting the old service. Ground rods and water ground will be simple. Permit was pulled last year so we're working with the 2005 NEC

This isn't the largest service I've ever worked on, but this would be the first time installing something this big. Typically my 100 amp services were $1000-$1300 and 200 amps were $2000-$2500.

1. Will I be able to bend the aluminum feeders into the shown panel or am I setting myself up for a frustrating day?
2. If so, would it be better to use the side-by-side meter bank?
3. Given the mentality of the inspector in S. Boston, will having that small room on the common panel be a big deal?
4. Can you please help me with the price? I realize that this question is probably limited to other MA electricians. Maybe some of you from other states can use the prices I listed as a proportional gauge.

Thanks a lot, I'll be on and off the computer all night, and I'll be able to check in a few times tomorrow. And yes I realize if there was a market for people who wanted to read novels about installing wires I probably could be rich.

* I may be able to get him to rip out the shingles where I'll be working and replace them with the modern version minus asbestos. But only if that would prove to be cheaper to him.
 
Remgrit holesaw and a helper with a garden sprayer of water. The asbestos sidewall shingles will clean the teeth right off a regular holesaw in nothing flat. If it's in a high-traffic area, where prying eyes might be, you might be better advised to hire a specialist contractor. I recently paid an abatement company $1600 to drill (2)2-9/16" holes and (1)5" hole in asbestos sidewall tiles.
 
Jay:

1. I don't think you'll have that much trouble with bending the wires into place. You can always slide a reamed piece of PVC on the ends of the wires as bending tools.

2. I would use whatever costs less, as long as it fits. Around here, the POCO supplies meter bases free, so I look at separate discos when doing cost comparisons.

3. I'd look at it as placing the common-area loads on the panel under the supervision of the on-site, live-in building manager. ;) They've gotta love that.

4. Figure it like four individual services as far as you can, then add the stuff they share. As for the asbestos, I say remove whole tiles and install a backboard.
 
Thanks for the ideas on the asbestos. And thanks LarryFine for some good answers.

I'm nervous about pricing this out, so that's my biggest concern right now.
 
I am pretty suprised you guys are disussing messing with asbestos when the OP isnt ACM certified. I sure wouldnt do it, then become liable for some sort of cleanup cost at a later date. Sounds like the bid needs the line 'asbestos removal by others'
 
Service for a 3-family with common panel in Boston

I too am a Southie based electrician.First thing I would look into is the possibility that you may need a by-pass meter socket for the public panel.
I believe Milbank does not make such an animal(4 position with (1) of the positions a by-pass).

I complete the task with a three position with a myers hub offset to the single position socket.

Look into the price of this equipment,it is all over the place lately.

Be carefull when you drive the rods in the basement,I once hit the main 4'' poopy drain,came back the next day and the place was reeking like the men's
room in Fenway.

Sometimes the alley is owned by the next door neighbor or only half the alley is owned by the customer which gives you the right to keep the meters in the basement.

As for the shingles wiggle them loose,go to the big orange store and by the cement version of this siding,tack it back up,drill your holes.No cancer.If you want to be a good guy give the shingles to the HO and tell him the properly dispose of the shingles.

Gather up the stock, look at it -4hrs

Install (two bodies for a long day)-16hrs???

Permit pulling,inspection -4 hrs
TOTAL -24 hrs???? +Stock+profit

Lastly "Thou shall not diss thy inspector,for he mayeth have a laptopeth."

Good luck
 
millbank U3764-XL is the meter bank you need to use in massachusetts. The utility (national grid or nstar) will require a lever bypass for the common area meter. This meter is horizontal with 4 positions, the far right being a lever bypass I've gotten burned on this before. the lugs should fit the oversized wire fine.

as far as price goes - hard to say without seeing the job - you say it is easy though - how many branch circuits exist? will you have to splice any to get them into the new panels? do you have to build a new wall to mount the panels? I'd say $3300 - $3800 not including any material plus permit costs if any for new service.
 
oops - sorry i saw that the disconnects need to be outside or right inside the basement. you will still need the lever bypass for the common panel. You can use the one from my last post and install disconnects right inside the basement then go to the panels, or try the millbank U4374-XT-5T9 - it has all 4 lever bypasses with disconnects outside - rated higher than u are looking for but will work for what u need. Check to be sure 100amp breakers will fit into this first.
 
asbestos siding

asbestos siding

Here is what I did that worked well and no cleanup. Put masking tape or duct tape on shingle and cut hole with roto-zip. Use vasoline on bit, no dust created. According to the asbestos guys this is fine.
 
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