Service Mast...

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1793

1793

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Location
Louisville, Kentucky
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Inspector
I have a job pending where I have to install a Service Mast. I try to avoid this type of Service but I think I'm going to take this one. My question is: How do you drill the holes between the eve and roof, for 2" conduit, so they line up correctly? Is there a tool or a "jig" available?

If anyone would be so kind as to share it will be greatly appreciated.
 
I suppose the roof hole could be a bit larger since you'll need some room for caulk and it will have a flashing over it. The hole below if the service is surface mount and should be as clean cut as poss. So make the eave hole first. Spot and drill the second hole with a long small bit throug the first ( I have a 1/8 " and a 1/16th " for this. Spot the angle of the pilot hole for level and center of the eave hole. You'll prabably need somone to help spot..HO maybe..
You don't need to make it a really snug fit. Just clean and straight.
 
This is what I do, I take a 12" pilot bit and install it in the hole saw. this will give you your reference hole in the roof, so as long as you drill straight you'll be okay. I also recommend you get your self a deep holesaw, because once your on the roof drilling down the angle of the roof will not allow the holesaw to finish its job.

Mine001-4-1.jpg
 
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I made my own custom hole saw with a peice of 2" IMC and a 2-1/2" hole saw. I welded the hole saw on the end of an 18" piece of the IMC, and welded a steel plate and a short piece of 1/2" hex key.

I looks wicked, and can be a bear to use, but you can easily do this:

DSC_0109a.jpg

Drill through the soffit, clear the saw out, then push it on up to cut through the roof.
 
FWIW, I do my masts with 2-1/2" since that's normally the biggest hub you can get for 100-200 amp meter cans. No special reason. Just something I decided to do years ago after seeing how easily 2" masts can be bent under ice load.
 
mdshunk said:
FWIW, I do my masts with 2-1/2" since that's normally the biggest hub you can get for 100-200 amp meter cans. No special reason. Just something I decided to do years ago after seeing how easily 2" masts can be bent under ice load.
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The max. height I can install a wireholder off the roof is 30", so I dont really worry about ice load. The picture Ken posted would never fly with the POCO around here. ( at least it looks more than 30" ?)
 
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stickboy1375 said:
The max. height I can install a wireholder off the roof is 30", so I dont really worry about ice load. The picture Ken posted would never fly with the POCO around here. ( at least it looks more than 30" ?)
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I've got to look it up each time, but I can go a certain amount of stickout with 2". A certain longer stickout with 2-1/2", and up to a pretty long max stickout in either size if I guy it back. Get a 60's vintage home with 7 foot ceilings and a hip roof all the way around, and you really need a pretty long stickout to get the ground clearance you need.
 
1793 said:
All of these suggestions so far sound great and I'm looking forward to hearing more.
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I just replace the hole saw pilot with a bellhanger bit, as pictured earlier. No reason to make it more complicated than it needs to be.
 
mdshunk said:
FWIW, I do my masts with 2-1/2" since that's normally the biggest hub you can get for 100-200 amp meter cans.
Click to expand...

Some of National Grid's territory requires 2.5" for the riser (depending on the previous utility spec before they took over.)
 
mdshunk said:
FWIW, I do my masts with 2-1/2" since that's normally the biggest hub you can get for 100-200 amp meter cans. No special reason. Just something I decided to do years ago after seeing how easily 2" masts can be bent under ice load.
Click to expand...



How long do you think this mast is going to stay up?
I noticed the POCO has not even locked the meter to this service or made the final connection yet...so it must be very new.
IMG_6814.jpg
 
Pierre C Belarge said:
How long do you think this mast is going to stay up?
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That's industrial strength dumb. No couplings above the roof line, ever! When I need more than one stick, the cut piece gets threaded and put into the meter hub first. Let the full stick go on out through the roof. That one would fly in my area if they put a guy on it. Probably a couple, actually. I'd have just 45'd below the soffet there, ran up the wall higher some more, then 45'd again to go straight out through the roof higher up. No excuse for what we're looking at there.
 
Pierre C Belarge said:
Marc
Remember, all parts are supposed to be listed for masts...

That is a special Listed Mast Coupling...seismic and wind proof. :wink:
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Don't you get ice in New York?
 
mdshunk said:
FWIW, I do my masts with 2-1/2" since that's normally the biggest hub you can get for 100-200 amp meter cans. No special reason. Just something I decided to do years ago after seeing how easily 2" masts can be bent under ice load.
Click to expand...

Have to agree with Marc on this one at least partially. Always use 2 1/2 Rigid when it goes through the roof. Local POCO requires it as well.
 
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