Service question

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petey_c

Member
I'm doing a service that requires a 16' mast. I figured that I would be able to get the shorter length of pipe threaded (2.5" gal) to screw into a meter hub. The local plumbing warehouse (Blackman Plumbing) would thread my pipe but, I'd have to buy a length from them. After the "full trade discount" they wanted $182.00 for the pipe (10') and then $20 to thread it. Ouch. My inspector seems iffy about using a compression connector. He suggested using a "myer's hub," but that's threaded top and bottom. Any help would be appreciated.
 

ultramegabob

Senior Member
Location
Indiana
Huevos said:
How about putting the cut end under the weather head. No threading nessesary.

thats what we do in my area as long as the coupling isnt above the roofline.


edit- Im assuming that you are supporting the service drop with the risor and its going through the soffit. If this is just running up the side of a block wall and not free standing or supporting the service drop, I would run schedule 80 PVC and anchor the service drop to the structure.
 
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peter d

Senior Member
Location
New England
petey_c said:
I'm doing a service that requires a 16' mast. I figured that I would be able to get the shorter length of pipe threaded (2.5" gal) to screw into a meter hub. The local plumbing warehouse (Blackman Plumbing) would thread my pipe but, I'd have to buy a length from them.

Since you were looking into buying from a plumbing supplier I'm assuming you would get plumbing galvanized pipe. Someone correct me if I'm wrong but I don't believe you can use plumbing pipe for electrical conduit. I think the plumbing pipe has a rough weld seam on the inside that electrical grade conduit does not.
 

LarryFine

Master Electrician Electric Contractor Richmond VA
Location
Henrico County, VA
Occupation
Electrical Contractor
Here's an unorthodox idea: go to your local rental place and price the minimum rental for a threading machine. Then ask how much they'd charge you to just use it on the spot for 10 minutes.

They may give you a lower price if you don't leave the premises (if they'll let you do it there at all.) You might as well thread both sides of the cut just in case you ever need a 4' piece.
 

Dennis Alwon

Moderator
Staff member
Location
Chapel Hill, NC
Occupation
Retired Electrical Contractor
Huevos said:
How about putting the cut end under the weather head. No threading nessesary.

I believe the op wants the short piece between the meter hub and the roof penetration so that there is more support on the pipe.

Why could you not use a threadless connector at the hub. Aren't they raintight?
 

Huevos

Member
Dennis Alwon said:
I believe the op wants the short piece between the meter hub and the roof penetration so that there is more support on the pipe.

I guess I'm not getting a good picture here. If the service mast is used as a means of support for the drop why can there not be a coupling above the roof line. If it's that tall above the roof it'll need to be guyed anyway and as long as the guying clamp is above the coupling I don't see an issue. Am I missing something?
 

Dennis Alwon

Moderator
Staff member
Location
Chapel Hill, NC
Occupation
Retired Electrical Contractor
Huevos said:
I guess I'm not getting a good picture here. If the service mast is used as a means of support for the drop why can there not be a coupling above the roof line. If it's that tall above the roof it'll need to be guyed anyway and as long as the guying clamp is above the coupling I don't see an issue. Am I missing something?

The coupling is the weak link. Structurally it would be a stronger install without the coupling and as much pipe, without a coupling, as possible below the roof.
 

Huevos

Member
Dennis Alwon said:
The coupling is the weak link. Structurally it would be a stronger install without the coupling and as much pipe, without a coupling, as possible below the roof.

Yes, that's true, although I don't know of any of these that have failed when properly installed/guyed. During my days as an electrician working for someone else I always looked at the most bulletproof way to build things. Now I look at the money too. I'm really looking to see if there is a code issue that I'm missing.
 

Dennis Alwon

Moderator
Staff member
Location
Chapel Hill, NC
Occupation
Retired Electrical Contractor
Here is the NEC-- One can argue what is adequate strength but I believe the utilities have more to say about it then the NEC. Many of them will not hook it up with a coupling above the roof.

230.28 Service Masts as Supports.
Where a service mast is used for the support of service-drop conductors, it shall be of adequate strength or be supported by braces or guys to withstand safely the strain imposed by the service drop. Where raceway-type service masts are used, all raceway fittings shall be identified for use with service masts. Only power service-drop conductors shall be permitted to be attached to a service mast.

Suppose the mast wasn't high enough to require a guy. If the coupling is above the roof with less than 3' of pipe after the coupling you can bet that the coupling will break first. I have seen many down trees just bend the 2" pipe but have never seen it break it in half. The utilities want that extra protection for their wires.
 

petey_c

Member
The mast will extend 3' beyond the peak of the roof. POCO lines are on the opposite side of the street (80' drop). POCO/Insp. require the shorter pipe to be at the bottom (this way the pipe that extends through the roof has 7' to secure to the house vs. 3' of the shorter). If I could've, putting the cut end at the weatherhead would've been the way to go. I need to use 2.5" gal (10' lengths threaded at both ends. 200 A service). The price of which just went up from $87 to $126.00!) Spoke to big box store, 2" is the largest they will thread. I could use another support (guy wire or 6X4 wood mast), but it's a brand new house (my neighbor) and I didn't want too much penetrating the roof. I already have the compression conn. on. I've got to call the insp. today before he hits the road. thanks for the replies so far....
 

iwire

Moderator
Staff member
Location
Massachusetts
Am I missing something?

Place an RMC compression connector into the meters hub, place the cut end of the 6' section into the compression connector, thread the 10' stick on the top of the 6' piece.
 

petey_c

Member
Bob, That's what I did. The inspector didn't seem like he was getting a warm fuzzy with the compression connector. Maybe he's looking for something more along the lines of a "raintight" fitting for rigid....
 
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