Shedding heat

[frofro19]

Instead of a 100 amp SMM, use a low voltage one, and just break the white wire at the air handler, which would lockout the heat. Would be much cheaper. If the a/c is also too much, break the red wire.

The problem is that one unit is in the attic on the second floor. No way to run a LV wire if there's no extra wires leading yp there from the outdoor unit.

 

[hillbilly1]

The problem is that one unit is in the attic on the second floor. No way to run a LV wire if there's no extra wires leading yp there from the outdoor unit.

I thought Generac had wireless controllers that did that? Hadn’t done a Generac in many, many years, but I thought someone on here said they were wireless and used frequency to control loads.

 

[frofro19]

I thought Generac had wireless controllers that did that? Hadn’t done a Generac in many, many years, but I thought someone on here said they were wireless and used frequency to control loads.

The Smart modules are wireless as far as low voltage wiring goes. You break the high voltage line and it detects the frequency. But in that case it would be in line with the 6/2 romex supplying the air handler and thus shutting down the whole thing and not allowing the heat pump to be used at all.

 

[hillbilly1]

The Smart modules are wireless as far as low voltage wiring goes. You break the high voltage line and it detects the frequency. But in that case it would be in line with the 6/2 romex supplying the air handler and thus shutting down the whole thing and not allowing the heat pump to be used at all.

A simple high voltage relay can be used then to break the low volt line. You don’t have to break the main feed just to control the hvac. Heat pump can still be used because the heat strips are controlled by a separate output called “emergency heat” which can be automatic or manual depending on the thermostat. Just break that wire.

 

[LarryFine]

Heat pump can still be used because the heat strips are controlled by a separate output called “emergency heat” which can be automatic or manual depending on the thermostat. Just break that wire.

The problem he's having is getting control wires from the ATS to anywhere along the T-stat wiring.

 

[hillbilly1]

T

The problem he's having is getting control wires from the ATS to anywhere along the T-stat wiring.

Thats why we were talking about the wireless controls that Generac makes. Instead of cutting line voltage, use it to lockout the low voltage side which does the exact same thing, but costs a whole lot less.

 

[frofro19]

T

Thats why we were talking about the wireless controls that Generac makes. Instead of cutting line voltage, use it to lockout the low voltage side which does the exact same thing, but costs a whole lot less.

T

Thats why we were talking about the wireless controls that Generac makes. Instead of cutting line voltage, use it to lockout the low voltage side which does the exact same thing, but costs a whole lot less.

This is the SMM I usually use. But it's for a 240v load. What exactly is the wireless control made by generac that you are referring to?

 

[LarryFine]

This is the SMM I usually use. But it's for a 240v load. What exactly is the wireless control made by generac that you are referring to?

The suggestion is to use that module to control a relay with a 240v coil to drop out the 24v for the heat strips.

If it was me, I'd replace the contactor inside it with a smaller relay with the same coil voltage. But that's me.

 

[kwired]

I thought Generac had wireless controllers that did that? Hadn’t done a Generac in many, many years, but I thought someone on here said they were wireless and used frequency to control loads.

The load shed controls is what detects drop in output frequency of the generator if the load is getting too high and causes it to start shedding loads that are connected to the control contacts. Anything that is wireless would be an additional optional component if they make such a thing.

If they don't make such a thing some other wireless controls are out there, many more generic in nature and not designed for a specific application, some may be cheap but possibly less reliable and some may be very reliable but pricey.

 

[brantmacga]

To shed heat strips only, you would need the power the SMM electronics and contactor from the AHU circuit. Then route the heat strip circuit through the contactor lugs. I’m sure this voids any sort of mfr warranty if any on the AHU.


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[hillbilly1]

To shed heat strips only, you would need the power the SMM electronics and contactor from the AHU circuit. Then route the heat strip circuit through the contactor lugs. I’m sure this voids any sort of mfr warranty if any on the AHU.


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The heat strips are on a contactor, so just breaking the lv control circuit is all that’s needed. Done it a many a time before the advent of load controllers built into transferswitchs now.

 

[brantmacga]

The heat strips are on a contactor, so just breaking the lv control circuit is all that’s needed. Done it a many a time before the advent of load controllers built into transferswitchs now.

Oh yeh that’s right


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