Smokes - Wireless Interconnect

Travisb6989

Member
Location
FL
Occupation
Electrician
Just finished a 2nd floor garage addition and we need to integrate the 2 new smokes into the existing house, but running a wire isn’t possible.

is there a device that will wirelessly connect the two separate sets of circuits of smokes? Or do I have to replace all the smokes with wireless compatible units?

We don’t do many remodels, so this is new to me.
 
If your fire marshal can look up the address to confirm construction class, they will clarify what retroactively applies to existing areas after additions.

If you can't reveal the address, for remodel missing permits & licenses, consult your Fire Code for the requirements.
 
is there a device that will wirelessly connect the two separate sets of circuits of smokes? Or do I have to replace all the smokes with wireless compatible units?
Absolutely. While build quality of the brand is poor, all the First Alert models that have wireless also act as a gateway to wired detectors. No extra "device" needed.

I'm also a fan of interconnecting the home alarm to smokes.

There are also several "listener" devices that listen for the sound of detectors (just like human ears), and relay that information to another place.


First Alert and Kidde have a miserably high failure rate, especially on the 10 year lithium models.
False alarms, bad batteries, silent failure. And they continue to make ionization only detectors (Ionisation detectors although not yet banned in the UK have been banned in Germany, France and some other EU member states, but not the USA). I won't move on from a job until there is at least one photoelectric in the mix. And for apartments, put two detectors in, because the one could just silent fail.
 
How old are the existing detectors? Keep in mind the 10yr end of life, might be a good idea to just go ahead and replace them all and start fresh. You don't want the problem of replacing the existing in like 3 years and having to now match them to those new ones you just installed.

-Hal
 
How old are the existing detectors? Keep in mind the 10yr end of life, might be a good idea to just go ahead and replace them all and start fresh. You don't want the problem of replacing the existing in like 3 years and having to now match them to those new ones you just installed.
-Hal
His issue was two distinct islands of hardwired detector interconnect.

Kidde & First Alert harmonized their hardwire signalling at some point some years ago. So there should not be a problem with one hardwire unit triggering another. On wireless interconnects it's definitely per vendor, and the big guys have changed protocols several times. The most reliable one in my experience was the old dip switch based Kidde. Now it's a bunch of button pushes and voice prompts and a royal PITA to get everything programmed reliably.
 
Absolutely. While build quality of the brand is poor, all the First Alert models that have wireless also act as a gateway to wired detectors. No extra "device" needed.

I'm also a fan of interconnecting the home alarm to smokes.

There are also several "listener" devices that listen for the sound of detectors (just like human ears), and relay that information to another place.


First Alert and Kidde have a miserably high failure rate, especially on the 10 year lithium models.
False alarms, bad batteries, silent failure. And they continue to make ionization only detectors (Ionisation detectors although not yet banned in the UK have been banned in Germany, France and some other EU member states, but not the USA). I won't move on from a job until there is at least one photoelectric in the mix. And for apartments, put two detectors in, because the one could just silent fail.
So basically the first alert models that have wireless will also still have the interconnect wire. So if it sense the trigger on the interconnect wire, it will transfer that signal over the wireless to anything paired to it. And vice versa?
 
Just finished a 2nd floor garage addition and we need to integrate the 2 new smokes into the existing house, but running a wire isn’t possible.

is there a device that will wirelessly connect the two separate sets of circuits of smokes? Or do I have to replace all the smokes with wireless compatible units?

We don’t do many remodels, so this is new to me.
The building code covers smoke alarms. There was an exception that if you couldn't run a cable without damaging the building finish, you could install battery powered smoke alarms. Hopefully it's still in the code.
Check with your building inspector.

Ron
 
So basically the first alert models that have wireless will also still have the interconnect wire. So if it sense the trigger on the interconnect wire, it will transfer that signal over the wireless to anything paired to it. And vice versa?
Correct.
It's a two way relay. This is documented, but not clear. But I can verify having personally tested it both ways.
You need the models that have BOTH hardwire AND wireless. Two of those will bridge a wire gap.
 
I believe Kidde has moved to all photoelectric as of quite recently. No more ionization. I could be wrong, but I think the listing criteria for smoke alarms changed, so everyone is moving away from ionization.

Both Kidde and First Alert have full hardwired, hardwired power but wirelessly interconnected alarms, and battery powered with wireless interconnection models. X-Sense on Amazon also has some listed wireless options, if you want to trust an Amazon brand.

2024 International Residential Code​

R310.2.2 Alterations, repairs and additions.​

Where alterations, repairs or additions requiring a permit occur, the individual dwelling unit shall be equipped with smoke alarms located as required for new dwellings.

Exceptions:
1. Work involving the exterior surfaces of dwellings, such as the replacement of roofing or siding, the addition or replacement of windows or doors, or the addition of a porch or deck
2. Installation, alteration or repairs of plumbing or mechanical systems.

R310.4 Interconnection.​

Where more than one smoke alarm is required to be installed within an individual dwelling unit in accordance with Section R310.3, the alarm devices shall be interconnected in such a manner that the actuation of one alarm will activate all of the alarms in the individual dwelling unit. Physical interconnection of smoke alarms shall not be required where listed wireless alarms are installed and all alarms sound upon activation of one alarm.


R310.6 Power source.​

Smoke alarms shall receive their primary power from the building wiring where such wiring is served from a commercial source and, where primary power is interrupted, shall receive power from a battery. Wiring shall be permanent and without a disconnecting switch other than those required for overcurrent protection.

Exceptions:
  1. Smoke alarms shall be permitted to be battery operated where installed in buildings without commercial power.
  2. Smoke alarms installed in accordance with Section R310.2.2 shall be permitted to be battery powered.
 
Last edited:
Why do you have to connect the new smopkes to the old? If the old were existing, then you don't have to esp. if there is no access to run wire. Maybe you all have some amendment on that.
 
Do you happen to have a model?
BRK SA520B Interconnected Smoke Alarm with Hardwire Adapter Included
SKU: SA520B / SA521CN
Hardwired Wireless Interconnect smoke alarm bridge unit with replaceable battery backup and Silence feature. Includes photoelectric smoke sensing technology and two AA alkaline batteries.
SA520B Carton - Wireless Smoke Alarm.jpg
BRK-First-Alert---SA520B-Interconnected-Hardwire-Wireless-Smoke-Alarm.jpg




WARNING: this may or may not meet your local 10 year battery backup mandate.
 
Why do you have to connect the new smopkes to the old? If the old were existing, then you don't have to esp. if there is no access to run wire. Maybe you all have some amendment on that.
The op connect new to old, not hardwiring, wirelessly for all alarms sound on fire
 
First Alert and Kidde have a miserably high failure rate...
We had a Kidde smoke alarm with a 9V battery that started chirping every minute or so after being installed for only about a year. Replacing the battery did not stop it, neither did removing the battery. I finally opened the back door and threw it out into the yard so I wouldn't have to listen to the damn thing.
 
We had a Kidde smoke alarm with a 9V battery that started chirping every minute or so after being installed for only about a year. Replacing the battery did not stop it, neither did removing the battery. I finally opened the back door and threw it out into the yard so I wouldn't have to listen to the damn thing.
I have seen that on many brands. I assume there is a capacitor of sorts in there that keeps going for a while. Sometimes for a long while.
 
Top